GD3 M/T rear engine mount replacement
 

Has anybody replaced the rear engine mount for their M/T fit?

I can loosen the engine mount, but it doesn't come out because the mounting bracket is on. I can't seem to get any tools to fit and take the mounting bracket off. So...I can get the engine mount off, but not out.

Any tips on how to remove this engine mount?

I've seen the DIY's for A/T fits, which have completely different rear engine mounting brackets, so I am specifically looking for M/T.

Hmmmm.... maybe you can ask Innovative? I finally have my 75A set shipped out to me today from Innovative... it only took them 2 months to make mine! :(

be sure to post a DIY of that...i need to see how to replace the rear mount.

I probably won't be seeing my mounts til after xmas and I won't be doing the install til the spring when the snow goes away. I plan on doing my mounts at the same time that I do my clutch.

i am sorta feeling mine needs replacing too......i can feel the engine move from revving..

:(
 

so....today I bought some more tools and tried again.

I removed all the bolts for the engine mount and mount bracket. But the thing is so snug in there that I can't maneuver the thing to come out. With the steering rack on top, the subframe on the bottom, some bracket in the back restricting left/right/backwards movement, and the engine in front, the mount still won't come out.

Anybody here replaced the M/T rear engine mount before?? it's getting very frustrating.

hmm i was looking around the parts catalog and service manual, i will try to remove a steering gearbox 'stay'. looks like a support that i can move out of the way.

Well...i loosened the steering gearbox stay, and it just seems that the steering rack is too close and the mount still won't come out...if the steering rack was 2mm higher or so, i would have enough clearance, but nope...

Anybody?!? please? this is getting very frustrating trying to replace this mount.

Has anybody removed the front subframe before?

I have replaced mine with the ALEX mount. You don't need to un-do the subframe in order to do it. Here's some info and I hope that will help.

1- undo the 17 head bolt which attach the mount to the rear bracket

2- use a ply bar, ply between the mount and the bracket so you have anough clearance to undo the bolts 3 x 14mm for the bracket which attach to the tranny

3- remove the bracket then use a rachet with flex head + 14mm socket to remove the bolts on the engine mount bushing. After that you can easily take out the mount and to replace it with a new one.

4- that's it.

If you are working on the car with a hoist, I guess this will be quite hard to do.

Cheers,
Ben

i havent even attempted to try and put the third/rear engine mount in. it looks like it will either be way too tight of a space to work in or that the subframe needs to come out to make the job easier. so, instead of making the job difficult, i am going to make it efficient. i am going to put the third mount in when i take off my transmission to replace the clutch and flywheel. kill two birds with one stone.

How does the mounting bracket come off? through the top? there's not enough space because there's a lip at the bottom...

When you take off your tranny, you will need to remove the mount bracket anyways so in your case, it is not necessary to remove the subframe. Trust me, that will be lot more work if you try to take the subframe off.

Yes, the bracket come out from the top and there's enough room when you use the ply bar to tilt the engine a little.

I forgot to mention, you will need to remove the bolts off the header where it connects to the stock cat. After that, the engine can tilt freely.

Bumping old thread.

I am currently having trouble replacing the rear engine mount.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1480865373


I am not able to apply enough force using rachet + uni-joint, quite awkward, or a using a spanner, to undo the two upper bolts.

Looks like it need to remove the cat, to free up more space?


I have trolly jack, jack stands, engine crane...

Thanks

It's a huge pain. I've done it once with a engine hoist and once with jacks.

I put the car on two jackstands, unbolt tranny mount and all engine mounts, put a floor jack with a piece of wood under it under the oil pain. first thing I undo is the main bolt through the mount. Then use a 17mm? socket on a 24" breaker bar to break loose the two rear bolts. There is a flimsy bracket that partially covers them with I think 3 14mm bolts "protecting" the steering rack that can be removed. After the two rear bolts and the main through bolt are removed, you can lower the engine slightly to get at the two lower 17mm "rear bracket" bolts, then jackt it up until you can get the third one from the top. Install is reverse, with more suffering.

Thanks for the tips, a friend and I are attempting this tomorrow evening...

Yeah honestly if you guys are having a tough time with it I can PM you my # to text or chat about it as you work through. I've had it in and out 4x now in one month and yes it sucked and took a lot of time every time but it worked sooo.

This was excellent and helpful advice! Removing the passenger driveshaft hoop provides more room than you'd think, and it helps.

We removed the main mount bolt, then the three vertical bolts (one easily from the bottom, two with difficulty working from above behind the motor.

We used a pry bar to move the engine forward and got the horizontal bolts into trans out. Box wrench for bottom two, 3/8 breakover for the top.

This was the second hardest rear mount I've done. The ones on some Toyota models are actually a bit worse, or maybe I just didn't figure out the tricks.

Jacking up the engine by a piece of wood under the oil pan is exactly what I had to do to change the engine mount on my old 97 Saturn. Worked great. Have no idea what it takes to do the rear though. Good luck!

I just removed the front lower torque mount, and exhaust bolts and it gave me plenty of flex to get the bracket out on the rear mount and cleared the pinion. While using wood on a jack. I just did this Install literally with the help of this thread. Thanks !