The things that over revving may do to your engine (possible minor NA build??)
 

oook so last night I went out and took the fit out for a spirited drive on the local twisties. My lewis-hamilton-esque shifting skills were not with me this night and I mis-shifted going from 3rd gear,high in the rpms, to 2nd instead of 4th. As you might've guessed it bounced off the limiter a few times, 2-3 seconds at most and i just threw it back to neutral and back in 3rd.

Today driving home from work, I heard an unusual noise coming from the bay that I havent heard before. It's a very light clacking noise, kinda like the noise that you would hear if you put a couple of nuts in a water bottle and shook it lightly. The noise only last for about 5 seconds or less and I can only hear it when the engine is idling. It's not consistent neither, I tried to replicate it by revving the engine to 2k and leaving it there for about 20 seconds and just let it drop back to idle. I did this 5 times and it only made the noise once.


I'm not sure what is wrong or if anything IS wrong, could be something that got loose (exhaust part or something?) or it could be the internals or maybe even the tranny that's making the noise.


My question to you is...

What are some of the major things that gets damaged first from over revving?


Oh and if you were wondering...
engine performance is not showing any change. It doesnt drive shitty or boggy or anything....



UPDATE
Went to a reputable local shop today and got them to listen to it. They told me that the noise is caused by a bad throwout bearing. It'll be about $350 labor to put a new one in. So i'm thinking stage 1 clutch hmm......


I also went to the dealer and they said it SHOULD be covered under warrantee but if they take apart my tranny and find any signs of abuse, that I'll have to pay them for them to put my car back together. Kinda risky....considering the amount they would charge is probably gonna be more than what i cost for me to get a stage 1 clutch AND labor.

could be clutch chatter. mine does this. but when it gets warm and the clutch is all heated and nice, it doesnt do it.

hmmm interesting, so you think I may have caused damage to the clutch?


I looked up clutch chatter on youtube and saw this
YouTube - Clutch Chatter

it sounds SOMEWHAT familiar but it's not consistent like that and nowhere near as loud.....

the main thing we get through the shop for this behavior is sucked valves. may need to have them re-adjusted (if what ur hearing is the valves) im assuming from the info at hand

sounds more like paranoia then anything....

like i said, from the info stated it could be the prob if anything, buuut these fit motors are pretty ticky from the start. if its running fine dont sweat it. if it ain broke dont fix it :D

You know I've actually done that a couple times, once when the car only had about 500km on it, and once a few days ago, and I haven't seen an related problems.

It could just the valve train transitioning to opening both intake valves at 2K RPM..... I pulled the same boo boo as you when my car was new and it is doing fine with 21000 miles on it now..... I think that Honda engines are close to being indestructible, as long as they are serviced on a half way normal basis..... Relax, it is OK.

Here's a video for you guys, you cant see shit but listen closely around the 8 second mark


View My Video
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=34e6gya&s=5

if you broke something you would know it....you take it to the dealership they will go "yup its fine wheres my money".....if you have the extended warranty or if your still in warranty you have no reason to worry

besides even if you did mess something up are you willing to shell out the cash to have honda bend ya over and tell you nothing is wrong untill it breaks?

lol

I do have the warrantee as well as the extended, but at this point I dont think there's much on the car that the dealer will honor the warrantee for.

I'm not too worried, i'm just really anal about the sounds my engine makes and i just know it wasnt there before haha.

Depending on what I messed up, if anything at all, I was planning on saving up and researching aftermarket parts, hence the "possible minor NA build" part of the title

Well i will say that my car doesn't sound like yours, but other than that i can't really offer any advice.

lol, thanks

After a forced mechanical over rev (especially 2-3 seconds of it) your lucky to have your car still running. I've seen it happen a few times (customer cars) everything from rod through the block to the pressure plate braking, I even seen one when it popped 3 of the roller cam followers off and floated a pair of intake valves that met a piston. A rev limiter is only effective against an accelerating over rev, with a mechanical over rev you but the clutch in ASAP and pray the engine holds together LOL.

At this point it still runs and drives just drive it how you normally do and pay attention for any noises that might get worse and try to not do that again (obviously)

^Noted,

any comments that you can make from the video?

It sounds like it could be that some of the valves made contact with the pistons. If that is the case it will get very loud when the valve separates from the stem, embeds in the piston and destroys the cylinder head and possibly the engine block... There is a possibility that it is part of the valve train on top of the head that is damaged and making the noise.... The only thing that I have heard that sounded like that was on an 81 VW Diesel that had the timing belt jump a notch or two causing the valves to make contact with the head I spent $3000.00 in 183 dollars to have it fixed.

updated......

i did this on my old civic and had to rebuild the motor :(

-Oil pump may fail if overspin (Yamaha's 180Hp 1.8l VVTL-i are notorious to that!)
-Bearings may get a beating if oil pressure/level is low...
-Valvetrain if valve float occurs...
-Clutch may fall apart... (Happened to me on a crappy 03 Sunfire!)
-Pistons/Rods/Fasteners if speed or load exceed threshold... (Depends on materials used for fabrication, design, forged or not, rod/stroke ratio, stroke, parts weight, etc...)
-etc!

Marko...

first. . . how in the world do you people miss a shift in these terrific trans!! must have been a GIANT brain fart

Do a compression check to see if you have any bent valves. i seriously doubt its any parts of the clutch or oil pump or rotating assembly (the piston wins when it hits a valve and if the valve wins and makes a hole in the piston, YOUD KNOW IT)

If you mis-shifted, and HEARD the rev-limiter, you didn't over-rev.

If you truly had an over-rev, all you would hear is the sickening swirl of your motor spinning faster, and faster, and faster, and faster.

if you heard that 'wap wap wap wap' of the limiter you weren't overreving. Sounds like your valves are in need of adjustment at the worst.

related to your update... you can't tell by looking at a throw out bearing if its been abused or not.

Yeah I'm pretty sure the valves can use adjusting. Does anyone know if there is a TSB out for it?

Not by the throwout bearing but the clutch plate...


and just another side note, when they took out my oem clutch apparently the stock throwout bearing just fell apart in 2. I dont know what that's supposed to mean....:confused:

I am glad that your engine is still alive and well. ... My valve train's getting loud and I am going to have to adjust mine.... I went from 4TH to 3Rd and was wound out just shy of the red line in 4TH when I did it and I can guarantee you that my rev limiter was going crazy. My BMW. GS 1100 and 1800 Gold Wing shuts down when over revved and the Fit keeps cycling on and off regardless of how high it is revving.... It is a terrible embarrassment to me that that I know this.

Not exactly true. . . .missing a downshift will cause a mechanical over rev that NO electronic (fuel or ignition) rev limiter can stop yet you will still hear the limiter becasue its still doing its job, cuting spark and fuel. Just wanted to clear that up so nobody gets misleading info.

Actually if you rev PAST the stock limiter, you won't hear the limiter.

The limiter sounds like it does because once the RPM passes a certain point, it cuts fuel. When you fall below another preset point fuel cuts BACK IN. That's the pulsing sound of the rev limiter. When you mechanically over-rev your motor beyond this point, the fuel will be cut out, and stay that way. Fuel won't be cut back in until the RPM drop back below the limiter's lower point. All you'll hear is the mechanical parts of your engine spinning very angrily. No pulsing wap-wap-wap noise.

i overrevved my car a couple of times but ive driven 18,000 miles since i last had it happen..this includes long distance trips to syracuse, buffalo, montreal. i hear something that sounds like water with bolts in it shaking when i first start the car but it runs perfectly fine.

is my fit ok?!

first post!!

This situation you're in is the exact situation I'm facing right now. Just got my car back from the dealer today because I took it in for a grinding noise coming from the tranny. I hoped to get it fixed under warranty because I managed to get it in before 60k (59,920) and I get a call back the next day saying they hear the noise and its the throw out bearing. They said Honda will replace it only if it's a manufacturer defect but if they find abuse I will have to pay for the replacement. They quoted me.... wait for it..... $1,132.18 to replace a throw out bearing. WTF!:mad: Did a quick search online today and found the bearing for around $50-$100. $1000 for labor :rotfl: So I think I'm going to save up for a clutch since they're going to have to take apart the tranny just for the throw out bearing. P.S. This is the last Honda I will ever buy. I've had nothing but issues with this car since I've bought it.

i just had a clutchmasters stage 3 put in hee in so cal. kit was $825 and the labor was $400. seemed fair to me.$1000 for labor, theyre out of their minds!