N/A L15a build
 

What does everyone think the best piggy back is,I need to be able to add fuel and add timing/control vtec FIC or Neo or Ultimate. Plan to upgrade the cam with a CatCam/PnP/ Port TB/IM/ Mill head (.05)/ maybe knife edge crank/rebalanced/ new main/rod bearing/ rod bolts . I have a complete engine and tran for a N/A build and I will be paying the car off soon so its build time. I plan to run the car in a spec class kind of like scca. N/A stock motor only but they can be moded not swaped. I pretty sure it will run lean if I cant add fuel think maybe using RDX injector with rsx pump to complete take care of the fuel just by keep injector duty low so maybe FIC but can it add timing.

O.E.M.
235 / 251° 196 / 200° 9.70 / 9.05mm 0.50 / 0.55mm O.E.M. MECH: O.E.M.
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2503001:o
263 / 259° 208 / 206° 10.10 / 9.75mm 0.80 / 0.60mm O.E.M. MECH: sport

If your not able to tune the VE tables this wont work. It would be better and cheaper to turbo. Changing all those parts there is more then fuel and spark that needs to be changed. I might be wrong but all those parts changes the VE and you need that to add the right fuel but with out a proper VE map you dont know how much fuel to add. Turbo or supercharger still operate under the stock VE and all you are doing is adding fuel.

This is one reason flash-pros dont work for the Fit. I see that parts are coming out and hopefully someone builds a package that you can go from. You can change parts up to about 30 percent and the stock ecu can adjust and you can change the fuel pump and add a fuel regulator to add and control fuel.

Im pretty sure the max you will be able to run in na will be 130hp.

spoon pushed their l15a to 123hp.

if your going through the trouble of fully building the motor why not just run a standalone system rather than a piggyback?

If you are going to spend that much money do this and you will thank me...

Longer con-rods, raised wrist pin pistons and increase the Rod/Stroke ratio. And/Or call up Eagle and have them make you a shorter throw crank. Somewhere in the mid 1.8x range would be about ideal.

Then rev that fucker to the moon. Raise compression somewhere into the high 11s or low 12s, thenrun a small water injection nozzle.

Big cam/ported head/oversize valves and 3/4 grooved main & rod bearings. Then wind it to at least 9.5k rpm. This will require some quality springs to go with that bigger bump stick.

That is the only way you are going to pull an appreciable amount of power without going FI.

If money was no expense I would build it to have my power band from 7-11k rpm.

The only way to make power NA on a motor like this is to hog out the head, big cam and wind it out. Torque over time is horsepower. If you can keep VE from tanking and wind it higher, you will make more power.

This requires an improved R/S ratio. Go bigger on the cam, somethng more like 272/280* duration and 11.x mm lift. Look into some beehive or double valve springs.

A true standalone will be a necessity.

This is awesome! :rotfl:

I swear, one day when I have a limitless supply of $$ I'm gonna bring you the most jank ass car I can find and let you create a monster. :vtec:

Build Buget
PnP head $350
PnP Tb 54mm $110
PnP Stock Intake $free
Used and PnP header $300
New bearing/rebalance/apr bolts $300
Coating/Cryo Treating $400
Piggy Back and fuel $1000

great list, i did that too and decided boost would out weigh it, im interested to see how it turns out:)

trying to open the ports on the head is going to be difficult. the water jacket is really close (roughly 1/4).

you might have to plan for welding the head to change the port size to help increase power.

diamondstarmonsters I thought a rod stroke of about 1.75 is optimal balance between torque production and hp?

I know my cbr600rr is running a r/s of 2.14 but the real power is anything above 10k rpms.

So tomorrow starts the intake manifold porting/ polishing, I am going to send out the tb to get ported hoping for 54mm. Not the intake port side that will wait until I finish the head and will be port matched. Also I'm looking for injectors that will work with our stock setup that are a little bigger; i think stock is 195 so maybe something like 215. This is so the injector will run stock pressure and I can use a NEO to pull fuel to lean out the AFR which also adds timing which is what I want. Plus I will need the extra fuel when I open everything up. Also I'm thinking of maybe a small cam regrind so it would be easier to tune.

With out change the VE tables and adding fuel to the whole rpm range you will only burn more fuel at the same Hp. Max Hp fuel is 12.5 and max torque is 13.4. I know the that over 70 percent loads the fuel trims is at 11 or so. The fuel will lean out at loads over 70 with that work but it wont be consistent. The MAF is used only at rpms lower than 3500 and then the VE or MAP(speed density) map which are programmed at the factory in which the fuel and timing curves already builds off of. Changing the fuel and timing will change after you reprogram it even if you have it re flashed because of the adaptive ecu. When the VE map is changed then it knows how to change looking at the info from the sensor. Then there is correction maps which is another story.

Well I need to call CatCams and talk to them about how their other customers tune there Euro Fits

First things first PnP intake manifold before and after pics will be posted

Here is some info on tuning basics. Tuning Fuel

Here is a Honda Civic SI tune but the principals are the same for all. http://www.accessecu.com/support/doc...File_Honda.pdf