Next Steps
 

So I'm getting my suspension sorted (I'd still love to find some poly for the control arms that doesn't cost a million)... And I'm looking a forward to when my clutch wears out... Whenever that might be...


The general consensus is the exedy stage 1 is the way to go... I have no need of getting anything higher capacity... Any other considerations? Suggestions?

Also while I was in there, I was thinking about getting a lightweight flywheel... From what I've seen fidanza is the only real game here... Weighs 7 compared to the stock 17... Does everyone still like this options? Not worth it? Get a light pulley instead?

Just trying to see if opinions are still the same...

Thanks!

:( anyone?

What kind of driving is this for?

Lighter flywheel will do way more for you than any pulley. You have a GD right? There are a few threads on here about the Fidanza flywheel, no complaints for GD iirc.

I would think the Exedy would be a slight upgrade and I don't think you'd need much more than those two together as far as drivetrain.

LSD? Might as well since you'll have everything apart anyway haha

lightened pulley's are not worth it and are harmful (solid aluminum vs oem has rubber dampner)

lightened flywheels are always a fun upgrade, turns a car motor into a motorcycle engine in no time flat. ha ha

For the umpteenth time the Fit pulley is NOT a damper it is just a pulley. So solid or none is OK.

Yup - gd here

Some autox... Lots of amusement otherwise...

Thought about the lsd but the money will be neded elsewhere...

Thanks!

For the money invested crank pulley replacement is good value for the money. Look way back when this place first opened there are a bunch of threads on the pulleys and the results.

If you don't have one yet and have $600.00 to play with a flashpro has been giving good results for the people that installed them.

Yeah I'd love to get one of those too... ;)

Unless you have a turbo, a stage 1 clutch will surfice. The stage 1 clutch will be ok on the street, it's not a huge difference in clamping force where you will have a left leg work out. Exedy is the better quality brand, hands down. You obviously will pay more.

I have had both Fidanza and Exedy on my other cars and never had issues with either. Great companies.

I suggest the LW flywheel, as long as you are in there you might as well swap to the Exedy flywheel. You won't lose drivability on a "off the self" performance part like this.

If you choose to reuse the OEM fly wheel; you WILL have to send the OEM flywheel to the machine shop and have it resurfaced, and losing a day or two. Or chatter will occur.

The LW pulley and LW flywheel make a killer combo on any car. These are things people do on their street tuned cars for a little extra "um-ph". I have a LW pulley and it was worth it. There is a noticeable difference is responds.

Thanks for your sharing your experiences!

I know Aj made a pulley... And I saw that unorthodox does as well but it's $$$... Any other brands or preferences here?

Also, just to confirm what I read, the exedy will bolt up to the fidanza lwfw?

I have an MFactory flywheel on my fit it only weighs 9lbs. That mixed with the stage 2 exedy clutch made a huge difference. I also have a quaife LSD. The car feels great. I think the car would be a little tough to drive with a 7lbs flywheel if you drive the fit a lot.

Does mfactory still make them? Do they have a replaceable friction material?

You guys are talking about stuff I know I am going to need to do pretty soon.. I can't believe that this little econobox was going to be the car that I had put more money into than any other car I have owned.

Racing Flywheel
they are still listed on their site. I didn't read anything about replaceable friction material, so i'm just gonna say no.

You should be alright with this flywheel.. The only ones I have seen with replaceable flywheel surface have been made of aluminum.. A chrome moly flywheel can be resurfaced.. I'm thinking that using a throttle controller in one of the Eco settings would make stop and go driving easier and prolong the life of the clutch and flywheel.. Thank you for posting this with a link.. I'm bookmarking it.:thumbups:

You can use all the GD3 stuff for clutch and flywheel options. They havent really filled the books with GE8 listed parts.


My future plans is the NST pulley (stock size, no over/under drive), half weight flywheel, and any clutch tha thas same clamping or more, and weighs same or less as factory. AKA anything better lol.

Solid pulleys are perfectly acceptable! You guys do realize fluid/rubber just means its dampened at a SPECIFIC rpm, not all the way? besides stock is undampened.


My goals should bring me around 5-7 more horses to the ground and a hell of a lot better response

Thoughts on that nst pullies? I saw then and the price is good... Splitting hairs they're not quite as light and I don't know too much about them...

I'm liking the mfactory flywheel for price and slightly heavier weight... But then thinking if I did just get the fidanza I wouldn't "need" the lighter pulley...

Just talking out loud...

Keep in mind, hub center weight removal is nowhere near as effective as outer rim weight removal.


If you were to remove 4-5 pounds from a pulley, it could be just as effective as removing a pound from the flywheel near the outer edge.


If you are undecided if the pulley is worth it, I would skip it entirely and simply go for the flywheel!

Noted

10char

For results with lightweight standard belt size (not underdriven) pulleys there are a BUNCH of threads on them way back when this place first opened.

*Pulley and flywheel weights/ gains are NOT equil.*

Quick physics lesson:

Inertia: the unwillingness to move

There are two main factors that make up circluar Inertia; Mass and Radius of the mass. The equation is I=m(r)^2. It's a bit more complicated, but it will give you an idea.

OEM Pulley:
Radius: 3in
Weight: 4lbs
Inertia:36 inlbs

LW Pulley:
Radius:3in (not an underdrive pulley)
Weight: 1.5
Inertia:13.5 inlbs

OEM Flywheel:
Radius: 6in
Weight: 15lbs
Inertia: 540 inlbs

LW Flywheel:
Radius: 6in
Weight: 7lbs
Inertia:252 inlbs

Pulley savings: 22.5 inlbs = can "free up" 1.8 ftlbs

Flywheel savings: 288 inlbs = can "free up" 24 ftlbs

This is why you have bigger "gains" with the fly wheel than the pulley. You can "free-up" up to 24 ftlb with the flywheel. Like I said; its way more complicated, the real numbers require intergration from calc. So the real "gain" numbers are lower, it's just to give you an idea. Pulley and flywheel weights is NOT equil.

The real idea of fly wheel and pulley is to get into the power band quicker (aka faster reving engine). Not "free up" hp/tq.

Here is the pulley I went with:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ht-pulley.html

Good post De36 I love it when somebody provides FACTS to make their point. Tried to give you a points bump but got the must pass it around message.

Physics nerds itt... ;)

Yeah after I typed it I realized what I missed...

I'm doing some research on aluminum vs chromoly for flywheel materials to see if there is any meaningful difference...

I'll be standing by for what you find out.. I have been leaning toward Chromoly but the larger amount of mass with aluminum would absorb more vibration and cancel out resonance.

Material of the flywheel does not really matter. Usually the clutch a=contact area is treated, either with a certain material, or machined in such a manner that it allows a long life/use out of it.

I personally would go for the cheapest flywheel that has at least 3-5 pounds of savings, then take to a machine shop and ask them to balance it for up to 10,000 rpm. The higher the rpm it is balanced at, the BETTER the balance. Its a matter of resolution and precision. If they offer a higehr rpm to be balanced at, that is better!

WHen I had my turbo crx, I took a used fidanza flywheel, had a shop remove another 1.3 pounds, and they offered a balance of up to 14,000 rpm. Never had a smoother running motor in my life, considering honda internally balances ALL their motors!!

What I found was basically this:

Aluminum is desirable because it's lighter... And some like that the friction surface is replaceable vs resurfaced...
Chromoly is generally heavier, and one piece, and stronger... And it does have some acoustical benefits albeit very slight...

The mfactory example is chromoly and cheaper than the aluminum fidanza, heavier by 2 pounds but still much less than stock...

I think I'll be going with the chromoly example... Slightly heavier may be beneficial to driveability, and I like the one piece aspect... You can easily get it resurfaced when the time comes...

.02

How much might a machine shop charge to balance one? Would they remove material or add?

Balancing technique varies depending on flywheel design. On the crx, they countersunk 3 small spots near each other on the engine side of the fylwheel.

I believe I was charged $130 to remove some weight and get it balanced. It was a matter of a morning drop off and an afternoon pickup. I do not know how expensive it is to simply balance.

For me, that charge came later on after I had destroyed yet another transmission. The old D series transmissions are not very durable past 300k miles when you had a super grippy 4 puck clutch!!

THMotorsports.net - Hottest Import Car Magazine News & Reviews & Performance Parts Here is a link that might be of benefit to someone. I've done some business with these guys in the past and found them to be knowledgeable and helpful..