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Weapon R for Ge8 questions.. I need expert feedback

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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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Weapon R for Ge8 questions.. I need expert feedback

I'm in the process of buying a weaponR headers for my ge8. I have some questions though..

What is the difference between the Race and Street headers in terms of how it looks like? Can someone post a picture of both headers.

Is there really a chance of CEL to appear when you use a WR race/ street headers?

Do you feel vibrations underneath the car during idle/high revs?

The so called "popping" sound or backfire or whatever, does the so called sound becomes louder when you install the headers using a stock midpipe and aftermarket exhaust or it really depends on your midpipe setup (for example removing the oem resonator or changing to a bigger pipe diameter. What's causing it to Pop? The cat converter removal?

Do you really need to have the car tuned or do you really need to use a piggyback to elimitate the loud popping sound it creates after the installation?

Lastly, is it worth buying? For the price and the performance gain it provides? I mean is it a good upgrade for the ge8?

Thank you
 
Old Jan 13, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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WeaponR only makes one type of "header" for the GE8, and some call it a front pipe or cat delete. I think you are looking at GD headers they have race/street versions. I do have a WR frontpipe on my GE8, and it is hard to put on, sounds bad, backfires, and gives you CELs (this can be remedied with a sensor spacer). But I believe there is some added responsiveness. I have used mine with the stock Bpipe and HKS hi-power(too loud and raspy). I am currently using it with the stock b-pipe and muffler which is tolerable but does not sound good to me. My advice is unless you are going forced induction or have a way to tune the car, leave the cats alone and tune the sound to your liking with a B-pipe and muffler.
 
Old Jan 13, 2014 | 03:02 PM
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Actually the purpose of purchasing this down pipe is to complete my IHE setup.. Im still goin to use the oem midpipe since the diameter can compensate to the axleback i installed and the resonation is pretty good. Might change to a longer resonator in the future. Just wanted to try the shorter one with the headers im planning to install and the exhaust i recently installed.

So the headers for their ge8, is it race or street?

Also hoping for more feedbacks from wr users.

Thanks
 
Old Jan 13, 2014 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzivtec
Actually the purpose of purchasing this down pipe is to complete my IHE setup.. Im still goin to use the oem midpipe since the diameter can compensate to the axleback i installed and the resonation is pretty good. Might change to a longer resonator in the future. Just wanted to try the shorter one with the headers im planning to install and the exhaust i recently installed.

So the headers for their ge8, is it race or street?

Also hoping for more feedbacks from wr users.

Thanks
I guess WeaponR calls it a Race header on their website.
I feel the stock resonator is a bit overwhelmed with the header.
Also their are two or three reviews on this forum. Lyon did one.
 
Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:02 PM
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ill search for weaponR review thread as well.

What do you mean overwhelmed with the headers? U mean the oem resonator is not enough to resonate the sound that the header is producing?
 
Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzivtec
ill search for weaponR review thread as well.

What do you mean overwhelmed with the headers? U mean the oem resonator is not enough to resonate the sound that the header is producing?
Yes I believe the OEM resonator cannot handle the sound the catless engine is making. So the resonator is actually rattling and or letting sound pass.

Here are some reviews:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...er-review.html

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...er-review.html
 
Old Jan 13, 2014 | 05:20 PM
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Thanks for sharing those reviews. Good thing the other link posted a vid clip. Wow on that popping sound using oem exhaust. And the review is really pretty straight forward. Some of my questions though was not answered in the review. I need more info. But based on all the reviews i read, its a 60-40 standing.. 60% to push with the purchase 40% chance of not getting it at all... Dilemma!
 
Old Jan 14, 2014 | 08:00 AM
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 11:31 AM
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T1r is an awesome brand. Quality and performance wise they are way better but budget wise i think il go with WR. I think the one you posted is a converter/test pipe but its a good addition to the exhaust setup.
 
Old Jan 14, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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The ge8 doesn't really have a header in the conventional sense. It's Integrated into the block so all ""headers " for this car are test pipes that get rid of one or both of the Fits catalytic converters. I think you should just get the t1r it's $150
 
Old Jan 14, 2014 | 09:22 PM
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Plus it's resonated so it probably won't be as obnoxious.
 
Old Jan 15, 2014 | 04:45 AM
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Oh ok! Thanks for the clarification. I already bought the WR and will be installing it tom. Goodluck to my ge8. Lol
 
Old Jan 15, 2014 | 10:34 AM
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the T1R isnt 150 bucks.

Its nearly $800 after shipping to lower 48, and does the same thing as the $300 shipped form ebay Weapon R
EDIT $135 for second cat removal, $385 for main cat removal. combined and with shipping, its over $500
aj-racing.com source

I wish people would quit recommending T1R for the downpipe stuff, them and Weapon R offer the same power achievement. The very few dynos available that are SAE corrected show they dyno within the margin of error from each other (less then 2hp and 3tq difference)

No need to spend more money then you have to.

Here is a site that offers it shipped under $300
2009-2010 Honda Fit Stainless Steel Race Headers (CEL O2 Eliminator Recommended For These Application) By Weapon-R 953-204-107
 

Last edited by 13fit; Jan 15, 2014 at 10:36 AM.
Old Jan 15, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the very informative stuff 13fit.. So you would consider weapon R as a good upgrade for its price?

Well, since its nearly installed i bet there's no turning back for me. Lol but anyway, hopefully you guys provide more pros and cons with this downpipe.
 
Old Jan 15, 2014 | 10:21 PM
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Let us know if any problems arise. a user on here, Lyon, stated he had to tighten one side of the donut flange more then the other to keep it from rapping on the sway bar. I do not remember if his swaybar was factory or aftermarket
 
Old Jan 15, 2014 | 10:54 PM
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A video would be nice
 
Old Jan 15, 2014 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by j1nNju1c3
A video would be nice
+1

Agreed. Would love to see a video! I'm currently running a tanabe medalion touring exhaust - T1r B-pipe - Prm intake set-up. Overall it sounds great!
 
Old Jan 16, 2014 | 04:41 AM
  #18  
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Installed mine..

No CEL
No vibration
Quiet on idle
Louder on higher rpm..
Popping sound yes but not that loud.

One thing i noticed too is the gain.. I hardly feel the gain or there is but a little or it did lose power based on what i feel i dont know. Stilll need to observe that further. (Using short ram intake, hks hi-power, oem midpipe)
 
Old Jan 16, 2014 | 09:08 AM
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Your contradicting yourself by saying you notice the gain, then you say you hardly felt it lol.

Which one is it??
 
Old Jan 16, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #20  
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Lol. No at first take off right after installation i'm not satisfied how it ran maybe because the engine is not yet in its normal operating temp (a little cold), ecu/sensors not used to cat delete yet and im still focusing on the sound it makes. But after more than an hour of driving around, i noticed that hey the power is there how come i dint feel that right after installation. Throttle response is A-ok. It responsed quicky when you floored it. I mean translating Lyons performance review in laymans term, with the numbers he provided im starting to agree that theres a slight increase in power. Since its a race header, power gain is within 3.5k-Ish 4krpm up.

With the oem downpipe when it reaches 5.5krpm it takes time to reach redline but with WR you'll notice less effort to reach the limiter.

Guys please correct me in my first statement and hoping that it has nothing to do with, not running it in normal operating temp nor the ecu/sensors (may it be LAF and o2) is still not used to the new downpipe yet. I mean that its a complete BS and it should run and you should feel the power right after installation and ecu/sensor, colder temp doesnt care.. Lol
 



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