Fit Interior & Exterior Illumination Threads discussing interior and exterior lighting modifications for the Fit/Jazz

Bulb sizes: Fit 2015 - Complete List

  #81  
Old 06-24-2015, 03:24 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
Jukebox,

I have the Jtech LEDs with the T10 base on them, basically the 555 bulb type for the dome and map lights. They are polarity sensitive being an LED. They operate just like the incandescents, they fade out once the door is closed.

Not sure if they have changed the Jtech's since i got them last year in August, or if the dimming circuit was slightly modified in the FIT.

I would be willing to bet that the LED lights you have does NOT have a "bleed resistor" built inside it. A side note, these bulbs are meant for DC voltage only, so there is no smoothing cap when used for AC voltage.

Amazon.com: Jtech 10x 194 168 2825 T10 5-SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb: Automotive

What you can potentially do to fix the problem is to put a load resistor to bleed off the remaining charge in the capacitor that is utilized for the dome light fade. This will fix your issue. Resistor is normally a 1/4 watt 470ohm. You can even try a 1K ohm and see if it fixes the problem.
 
  #82  
Old 06-24-2015, 05:37 PM
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: California
Posts: 99
Sounds like a lot of work.

Ill just put the stock bulbs back and keep my plates in since they turn off completely
 
  #83  
Old 06-24-2015, 06:40 PM
jhn
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I those LEDs in both of my Fits and I do not have this issue. Are yours the same as in BG1985's link?
 
  #84  
Old 06-24-2015, 08:44 PM
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: California
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Yup same exact ones.
 
  #85  
Old 06-24-2015, 10:23 PM
jhn
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Did you try switching them around to see if it just bad bulbs? I wonder if you just got some bad ones.


Bummer they're doing that because they're definitely nicer than the incandescents.
 
  #86  
Old 06-24-2015, 10:58 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
Its not a lot of work. Its a simple small part you can splice in parallel with the led bulb. What uou can vheck is look inside a spare bulb and see if there is an SMD resistor soldered inside the LED base. If there is not one then thats the reason for your issue.
 
  #87  
Old 06-25-2015, 01:05 AM
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: California
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Originally Posted by jhn View Post
Did you try switching them around to see if it just bad bulbs? I wonder if you just got some bad ones.


Bummer they're doing that because they're definitely nicer than the incandescents.
Yea I tried switching them too.

I try to exchange them on the weekend.
 
  #88  
Old 06-25-2015, 01:06 AM
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: California
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985 View Post
Its not a lot of work. Its a simple small part you can splice in parallel with the led bulb. What uou can vheck is look inside a spare bulb and see if there is an SMD resistor soldered inside the LED base. If there is not one then thats the reason for your issue.
Thanks but I don't even know what those terms are or what to look for.

Ill try to google it on the weekend.
 
  #89  
Old 07-01-2015, 06:34 PM
jhn
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985 View Post
Yes, same as what I have. Now if you still have incandescent bulbs in the rear then all you need is two load resistors for the front. Obviously if you have LED's in the rear then you need two in the rear as well. That would make a total of 4 resistors. Thats for my config.

Edit: yes the scotch locks are a bit cloogy but they do work. Some guys actually strip but dont cut the vehicle wire and solder the external wire onto the exposed wire and cover with liquid tape.

Rear Right: Green Wire----Resistor----Ground (Frame)
Rear Left: Yellow Wire----Resistor----Ground (Frame)

Front Right: Grey w/green stripe----Resistor----Ground (Frame)
Front Left: Yellow Wire----Resistor----Ground (Frame)

https://youtu.be/Mwv_mVCIQGs
I just got around to installing the LED back-up lights and red blinkers. I just wrapped one end of the resistor around the bottom light mounting screw for the ground. Works, but I'm thinking about putting an eyelet on it. Where did you mount the ground?

Thanks again for this.
 
  #90  
Old 07-01-2015, 09:56 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
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Originally Posted by jhn View Post
I just got around to installing the LED back-up lights and red blinkers. I just wrapped one end of the resistor around the bottom light mounting screw for the ground. Works, but I'm thinking about putting an eyelet on it. Where did you mount the ground?

Thanks again for this.
Look up my video of the trailer lighting and you will see the frame screw I used for the ground.
 
  #91  
Old 07-02-2015, 07:20 PM
jhn
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985 View Post
Look up my video of the trailer lighting and you will see the frame screw I used for the ground.
I didn't see the LED resistor in your vid. It looks like you grounded it somewhere behind the interior paneling?

I decided to try soldering an eyelet to one end of the resistor and then placing it onto the lower of the two mounting screws. What do you think? It works ok, no hyperblinking:





It should be ok?
 
  #92  
Old 07-04-2015, 02:55 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
Shouldn't be a problem at all as long as it has a solid ground. yes I did connect the resistors on the rear of the paneling in my video you see where I connect the white wire of my trailer light unit to an already existing grounding point I did the same thing for the resistors and put double sided 3m tape holding them in place
 

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