2015 LX Looking for easy install LED headlights
 

Hey all. Looking to install some led headlights. I grabbed a set of "LED EAGLE" with the fan, from Amazon ) with the assurance that they would fit no problem...sure if I wanted to get rid of the rubber dust cap...which I do not. Anyone have a good bulb that you are able to install without having to do away with the dust cap? If not how did you guys install your led headlights?

I have IPF led, it fits perfectly
///IPF? 351HLB LED HEAD LAMP CONVERSION KIT

Nice. Actual instructions as well...what did you pay for them? I see they are super expensive on Amazon.

I paid around $220 shipped on eBay. You're DRL and high beams will work also. I haven't tried other brand but i heard some LED headlight bulb you will lose DRL or the high beam indicator.

Were you able to keep your rubber dust cap on as well?

I have my dust cap on no modifications needed. I have this LED also on my Nissan 240SX its a pop up headlight and it fits great with no mods to dust cap or spacers needed.

If you're able would you mind taking a picture of the beam pattern against a wall? I've seen some led upgrades in halogen light assemblies that didn't focus the light as well. I don't want to blind oncoming traffic.

So since I'm in Canada I've been looking at xenon Depot at the leds. They have a Honda Fit led kit, fanless, easy fit, but the customer service rep says that in order to have the drls function I need a canbus decoder. I realize that the headlights are not canbus and I've never heard of decoders allowing the drls to work...anyone else heard of this?

XenonDepot | 2015 Honda Fit LED Kit | Xtreme H4 LED Pro

On the Fit the DRLs work by supplying one of the halogen lamp's filaments (I think it must be the low beam filament) with a lower voltage than the standard 12-14 volts. Maybe around 5 volts. Halogens simply put out less light, at lower voltage. As the voltage gets lower, the amount of light gets lower. LEDs often cut out completely below a certain voltage, or they put out almost the same amount of light as the voltage gradually goes down, and then suddenly begin putting out no light, once the voltage reaches a certain point. There is not comment on the IPF web page about how their product operates at low voltage for DRL function. You would think that since most LEDs do not work properly at DRL voltage, that the IPF page would comment, if their LEDs do work. But the page says nothing.

Pretty sure the Fit uses the high beam for drl. Does a pwm module properly ramp the voltage down in the leds high beam as to make them behave as drls? Here is the link to what they said I should get along with the headlights...
HID Kit PWM HID kit Module | HID kit canceller | Anti-flicker module

From looking around I'm wondering if they will just fully power the high beams in place of the dim drls, I'd rather just pull the fuse than run high beams all day

don't waste your money. Get a quality halogen bulb. LED in the stock housings are going to look like complete crap and you won't have any visibility. Trust me, I'm a retrofitter and I have this discussion many times before and after people buy cheap LED headlight bulbs.

Read this article for the best halogen bulbs to upgrade to:

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...-halogen-bulbs

If you want a retrofit, check out my facebook page @818retrofits and message me there. We can discuss way more in detail and I can show you pictures of HID vs LED vs Halogen vs Retrofit.

Noted! Thank you :)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...c1d2f065bc.jpg

If I figured out how to post a photo properly, Sirius LED bulb on the left, stock on the right. You can see the beam cutoff is not as sharp, but I don't think it's anything like an HID bulb in a regular housing. Cost was $50 for a pair, going to play around with the adjustment and make sure I'm not blinding people, but I think it's worth keeping.

https://www.siriusledlights.com/coll...d-headlight-h4

Are you able to get the weather covers on after installing the bulbs?

I noticed the web page said 8000 lumens "total" without specifying how many lumens produced by low beam, how many by high beam.

I could put led drls in the bumper cover, where the fog lights go, but I still haven't solved the problem of placing a switch to turn them on-off in the cabin, and wiring the switch to the drls.

I read the "HID Kit" web page but it is not very articulate. I can't figure out what the device does, from reading the page. Also, it doesn't say anything about allowing DRLs such as those in the Fit - which get their 5 volts as a result of PWM - to operate properly if the halogen lamps are replaced with LEDs. I would think that you still need the LEDs to operate at 5 volts - which they won't do. It isn't enough to just smooth out the flicker caused by the PWM module. This sentence makes no sense: "Also, it cannot be used in conjunction with DRL (Daytime running lights) if your vehicle *shares* the same low-beam bulb as the daytime running light."

"Share the same low-beam bulb" with what? Share takes the preposition with. Share as makes no sense. Shares the same low-beam bulb as the daytime running light...." As the daytime running light does what? It makes no sense.

I went with the xenon Depot Honda Fit kit that I linked to earlier, cutoff is very sharp, very similar to the stock halogens. A bit of sportiness on the road directly in front of me but I don’t really notice it when driving.

I did have to lower the aim though as they were a couple inches higher than stock. I purchased the drl kit they had but after figuring out that all that did was keep the high beams on as drl I just decided to grab a pair of aftermarket drl led lights and wire them up, also pulled the drl fuse. I had to cut the dust caps just a bit to allow the leds to protrude.

I’m pretty happy with them so far, nice crisp 5000k light.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...0b2d0b652.jpeg

here is the link to what who said you should get?

The Fit uses pwm to supply 5 volts to the headlight in order to make them shine less brightly in drl mode. It looks like the PWM kit they are selling will simply smooth out the flickering caused by pwm the Fit will still only put out 5 volts. It may be a smooth 5 volts but that's not going to help anything. In that case neither HIDs nor LEDs will work properly. I think the kit is made to work with headlights that get their 12-volt supply powered by a pwm module, in order to prolong bulb life by keeping the power supplied at a steady pulsating 12 volts DC when the alternator and regulator are functioning, rather than fluctuating between 12.5 and 14.5 DC as I know many older cars did.

The xenon Depot Rep told me to get them so I would have a functioning drl. The headlights themselves have their own drivers. All the pwm module would do (to the best of my knowledge) is boost the low voltage going to the highbeam for the drl function, making them run at full power...which I did not want.

Weather covers do not fit over the Sirius bulbs, think I'm going to try trimming them to stretch around the heatsink/fan assembly. I noticed the '8000 lumens' thing too, and they don't say on the packaging how many watts they draw, but if they work I don't know that I need the precise specs.

macswfc, if you get after market drl kits how are you going to switch them on-off? You will have to run a wire from them to a switch in the cabin. Sounds like a lot of work.

Nice cutoff with those HID lights you have.:thumbups: Many of those HID kits are very bright, but scatter light everywhere. Makes it tough on other drivers.

Those LED lights posted in this thread sure do produce a lot of scatter & glare. I can tell who has a good setup & a poor one. Lots of very poor setups on the road these days.

Switches aren’t that hard, I already have my interior illumination hooked up to a 3 way switch...but I don’t have the drls on a switch they are just always on when the car is on. It’s just the two little fog lights at the bottom there. I’d like to get real fog lights put into the cutouts but from what I understand you have to take the bumper off to install....and THAT is a lot of work, and possible broken clips!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...68f0c09fb.jpeg

Thanks, but these are leds as well! Like I said earlier I had to re aim as they were quite high after install but working out quite well now, no flashing from other drivers, even had a few buddies drive at me and in front of me and they had no issues with glare.

Looks clean

Those are absolute shit. Those should not be allowed on the road and even considering installing them on your car should make you feel bad about yourself.

Look at the absolute horrid beam pattern. Now consider this. At the distance in the picture of maybe 6 feet from the bumper to the wall you have gained about 4 inches of height compared to stock light. That is several degrees of elevation change in the aiming of the bulb. Look at how shitty the pattern is. It is one large blob of light and is much much too intense with absolutely no focusing at all. That is a piss poor designed product and won't pass a proper inspection anywhere done by a competent tech.


Earlier in this thread a poster mentioned Hidplanet and HID retorfits. That is one method of dramatically improving your headlamp performance without being a complete assbag to everyone else on the road.

The picture that shows a pair of headlamp wall shots that looks like it was taken inside a tent is what headlamp should look like with stock halgoen reflectors. If it looks like anything else it is WRONG.

This guy knows a lot more about headlamps that I do and I have been reading and researching headlamp tech for more than 10 years. He is an absolute expert in automotive lighting and you should read what he has to say before you spend money on made in china junk that could leave you literally in the dark on the side of the road.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/...lbs/bulbs.html
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

As a side note for those that think that it doesn't matter how much their headlamps blind oncoming traffic. I have a co worker that wrecked his shoulder about 10 years ago. Riding a harley at night, he was blinded by an idiot in a suv with overly bright light and couldn't see the road or the fact that the road had a curve. Rode right off the road at highway speed, yeah your headlamps being overly bright blobs won't cause any problems at all.

And if you do cause a wreck and the other driver says that your headlamps were extra extra bright and they pull the bulbs to inspect them, want to guess who the liability will be on for your NON-DOT approved forward lighting?

I agree that glare is a real issue for oncoming traffic. I've seen enough purple HID bulbs in old Civics that I am well aware of what you're talking about, but I don't think these are even close to that. The lights have since been adjusted so the blob is down where it should be, and not pointed at the eyes of oncoming drivers. I will apologize for one thing, I'm bad with a camera, and with the house lights in the frame it's not a good representation.

I guess you'll just have to take my word for it, there really isn't bad glare when standing in front of the car, until you squat down so your eyes are where the light is actually aimed. Still, the other lights posted are definitely a better pattern. Kind of makes me wish I had seen that photo before ordering, and I might even switch to that setup. If you look at the post, though, Macswfc also had to adjust his lights down. Since they're adjustable, I'm not sure why that's something to get upset about.

One thing I have to disagree with, though- I've seen probably a few hundred collisions, and the only one where there was any kind of claim of equipment being responsible was a woman in a poorly lifted truck. Something in the lift kit broke, the entire rear axle and driveshaft tore off, and she spun through three lanes while hitting two other cars. She didn't get a ticket, and there was no inspection.

Actually, the only time a major accident investigation team comes out where I'm at is when someone either dies in a crash, or if it's a really high profile DUI. There was one recently where a car somehow went upside down through a fence and through one of the pumps at a gas station. Think they came out for that.

If you have a proper pattern that has to be lowered slightly that is completely different from a large unfocused blob of light that is not even slightly similar to what the optics are designed to emit. Wrong is wrong regardless of anything else.

Equipment failures that results in a wreck do happen. No different than a tire blowing out or snow on the road. That is entirely different from modifications that impair other drivers ability to operate their own vehicle safely.

It doesn't take a team of investigators to inspect a vehicle post crash. A normal patrol officer can look at a car and pull a bulb or take a picture. I have read way too many posts on way too many forums about this topic and after a while they all read the same with people posting the same reason/excuses for their headlamps. That is why I posted the link to Daniel stern's website. It is informative and he is the expert. I have been on the same forums as him for 15 or so years and he is a car guy as well. You should read some of the responses he has posted over the years on threads simliar to this.

And if you did read the links he does address the installation of LED bulbs in halogen based reflectors. And if you read the links you will also see that LED bulbs are in fact illegal in ALL halogen based headlamps, so are HID and HID projector retrofits at least in most 1st world nations like the US, Canada, and Europe.

Macsfwc, it's a subjective question, but would you say there is a big improvement in visibility over the stock bulbs? Significantly more perceived light output, or just a little?

I agree that Daniel Stern knows what he is talking about. In addition, I think most of the halogens that are advertised as being 100/90 watts are flat out lying. In any case, wattage doesn't necessarily correspond to light level. What you want is a bulb that puts out more light, not one that uses more watts. How do you measure the amount of light - I don't know for sure how to do it properly. I've seen "lumens" listed to compare brightness but I don't understand exactly how this works. The stock headlight I find them very unsatisfactory. As DS says in re to some oem lights, my Fit's lights don't put out enough light, they have a black hole, there is insufficient lateral light.

I think is definitely brighter, more crisp light if that makes sense. As you probably know though the light is more linear, you don’t get the wide throw and glow that you do from the halogens so I feel like there may be slightly less peripheral light, i mainly notice this when on roads that already have some lighting though, out in the boonies they look great it’s kind of weird. it’s hard to remember exactly what my halogens looked like. High beam is fantastic, lights up the road like no ones business waaaaay down the road.

Here's my IPF led
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...adf1cc07f6.jpg

Low beam

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...c21f032736.jpg

High Beam