cool will try to buy the one you recommended superbrightleds.

Installed the superbright leds for the headlights, popped right in, kept the oem rubber boot with little trouble, Waiting until it gets dark to check the cutoff and look. So far in the daytime they work, and my DRL also work. I notice a bit of a flicker on start up though.

I need to wait until a new day to replace the fogs. Still a little too cold and wet to get in behind the wheel well and remove the lining to fight my way into the fogs. I might as well wait for a day to drop the bumper anyway and do the sport horns at the same time

VLEDs says their bulbs have a lower voltage range of 8 volts, Superbrightleds says their bulbs have a lower voltage range of 9 volts.

I decided it is time to take out my voltmeter. or my voltmeters, and see what they say about the voltage to the high beam filaments, when the DRLs are on. Be warned though, the voltage is controlled by a pulse width modulation circuit. Whether you can accurately measure the voltage being supplied to the bulb, by disconnecting the connector and measuring the voltage at the connector, with any kind of voltmeter, is questionable. Maybe you can measure the voltage accurately when the circuit is loaded by the bulb's filament (for example, with the bulb connected). Or maybe not. But measuring the voltage at the terminals, with no load, with no bulb in place, is even less likely. Now, to measure the voltage under load, I'd have to devise some intermediate device to go between the connector and the bulb, to which I can make contact, with the voltmeter's probe. I don't have such a device. So I just pulled the connector off the bulb, and measured. Started the engine during the daytime, put the headlight switch on auto, undid the handbrake, pulled the handbrake back up, put the car in drive, put it back in park, and measured.

What I got with my 40-year old high impedence voltmeter (I think its 1 megohm; the voltmeter utilizes a field effect transisitor to provide the high impedence), was 12.5 volts, Just a tiny bit less than the 14.5 volts I would expect to see at the high beam filament, with the headlamps switched to high beam. Although I forgot to measure that. But it would probably be about 14.5 volts. But with my 30-year old, cheap, automotive volt meter, with a range of 0 to 20 volts, but which has a much lower impedence, I got 3 volts, for the DRL voltage. Oh well. How many volts does the filament actually get in DRL mode? And how many volts would a LED lamp get, with its different impedence? I don't know. I forgot I also have a couple more voltmeters I can connect, and see what they say.

What I really need is a calibrated oscilloscope that can show the pwm waveform and that can be used to measure the peak to peak voltage and the RMS voltage. Anyone have any recommendations for something I can plug into my laptop computer's usb port or into the laptop's microphone jack that will display a voltage wave on the screen? Actually, I don't seem to have a microphone jack or high-level audio-input jack on my laptop, only on my desktops.

I just learned that I can buy an inexpensive usb sound card to plug into my computer, make this device, and buy an inexpensive oscilloscope program like the one listed on that page.

What model year is your Fit? Did you also use the resistors from SBL?

2016 EX. No issues with running fogs and led lights and I have them both set to auto on. Much better then stock

No resistors needed (unless they came bundled with the lights in the same package).. Nothing was replaced except the lights themselves

Thanks, super helpful!

Need to contact superbringtleds as my one foglight has started to flicker, and it is noticeably less bright then the other. Today it was completely out, so either i have a plug coming loose or the bulb finally died out

i hope i am not beating the dead horse, but i had few questions;

1. I see repeating terms; H4 and 9003 when it comes to naming LED light that fits GK5. is this like socket/part number that gk5 healdlight uses?

2. Voltage. i completely forgot to think about voltage of bulbs. it looks like ~12V is optimum since GK5 uses small battery?

3. LED lights from SuperbrightLED stores doesn't seems to require any other parts (eg. regist). everyone who installed those light, is it still worlking fine ?

I was convinced the LED that I bought for $90 would work. The light was bright white, but the main projection of the light was too close in front of the car for comfort. If I raise the housing, I would blind everyone on the road. I returned them and got my money back in full. Be careful, not all H4 LED light are the same. Mine had two LEDs on what looked like a circuit board. Onr on top and one on the bottom of the board. Those two chips suppose to simulate the H4 halogen lamp. They do not. I suggest you google and read up on plug and play LED before buying them. I went back to my SYLVANIA 9003/H4 SilverStar Ultra Halogen Headlight Bulb. They were replacement of the low power OEM bulbs.

Thank you for your insightt.
As for SYLVANIA ULTRA light bulbs, r they yellowish color or white?I see some ppl saying that even though its halogen bulb,its white color

Which LED bulbs did you go with?

Did the bulbs have a fixed orientation on the base, or did you try to rotate them on the base to see if that made any difference?

I took the advice from this forum. Headlight Experts cs@headlightexperts.com in Irvine, CA.
First I installed them incorrectly, the chips were orientated sideways. I was able to rotate the bulb to position the chips up and down. There were no instructions that came with the bulbs. I had to communicate with them by email several times to get things figured out. Even with the correct orientation, the Honda Fit lamp housing did not provide the light projection like the OEM halogen. The bright white light was all over the place. The main aim was too close in front of the road. I sent them several photos of the projection. Even though their policy was a 20% restock, they did not charge me for returning them, but I had to pay $6 to ship them back to Irvine, CA. Like I said, not all H4 LED are created equal. LED bulb is trying to simulate the same projection as halogen bulb. The Fit housing was designed for uniform lighting from halogen bulb. My suggestion is, the more chips that are in the LED bulb, the better it simulates the light coming from a halogen bulb. That is why you see many LED chips in tail lights. Some mfg use organic LED (OLED) that looks like plasma, continuous lighting. OLED is more expensive than LED. The Fit uses LED tail lights, not OLED. You will see both LED and OLED in the more expensive cars.

Sorry you had that experience, that must have been frustrating. Would you be willing to post up the light projections? I'm curious to see how they look.

Sorry, I was so frustrated I dumped them. My suggestion, if you do go with LED, the more chips in the bulb the better it simulates the coil filament in a halogen in projecting light in the Fit's housing. Two chips just won't do it, at least I wasn't satisfied.

3. LED lights from SuperbrightLED stores doesn't seems to require any other parts (eg. regist). everyone who installed those light, is it still worlking fine ?[/QUOTE]

My SuperbrightLED set up is going great with no issues.

Too bad as it would have been interesting to see them.

My SuperbrightLED set up is going great with no issues.[/QUOTE]

Same here with the ones I bought at SuperbrightLED. I did have to change the orientation initially, but that didn't take any time at all. I haven't been flashed since installing them and they really light up the backroads on my commute.

i am looking into buying H4 9003 that sells on SBL store.... =S

LEDs have longer life span then halogen lights?

Halogen bulbs 300 to 1000 hours. The higher performance ones will be down in the 300 to 400 hour range.
LEDs 10,000+ hours, maybe.

I was looking at LED headlight bulbs a couple years ago but backed away because of how bad they were. There were a lot of comparisons on YouTube where people buy a bunch of different LED bulbs from different manufacturers and then test them in one particular car which takes that kind of bulb. The light pattern spread was all over the map. Some are too white, some will blind oncoming drivers, some won't provide any better lighting down the road than the OEM halogens you're already using. It seems like you get a bunch of two bit small time manufacturers (and yes, typically Chinese) who quickly design something and then start trying to sell it. They don't actually test their products out on real cars in real environments..

this is why i am very hesitant to try out LEDs... i was hoping that someone could recommend me some LEDs that they were happy with =D

i was looking around found this;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291...3-a3fb7c644f3b

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284...0-d3bc3507d1ca



they all look okay but the price vary.. i will post if i do end up buying one of them

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284...3-a3fb7c644f3b

this one looks not bad also

If you guys are keen, i've installed IPL X2 H4 LED lights into my 2019 Jazz. Extremely happy with the cutoff. There are plenty of good reviews on their local websites.

Got it from Amazon Japan. Will post pictures when I have them!

https://www.amazon.co.jp/IPF-%E3%83%...-2-spons&psc=1

that looksl like solid LED head bulb ... the only thing is, its pretty expesnive heheheh its coming from Japan, which means the quality should be very good.


Quick questino thought; what is difference between the term H4 and 9003 ?

i see that for GK5, headlight fits H4 but does it has to be also 9003 as well?

i got confused because on the owner's manual, it doesn't say anything about 9003.. it only says 60/55W (H4LL/HB2LL , H4/HB2),

It's all bureaucratic semantics.

H4 was the first halogen headlamp bulb that could contain both low- and high-beam filaments.

When US automakers wanted to use them in vehicles for the US market, the DOT found that the schematics for H4 allowed for too much variance in the location of the filaments

A new blueprint was made, with all the electrical and dimensional properties the same, but with stricter limits on filament placement variance. The maximum allowable light output tolerance was also reduced. This new bulb specification was called “9003/HB2”.

ohh okay so 9003/hb2 is newer way of referring to H4 bulb

Or think about it as "U.S. spec H4"

The same question bothered me a while back and the answer I found, I believe in wiki, was:


which is pretty much what bdcheung has said.

perfecttt thank you guys for clearing it out for me.

my hunt for LED light continues..

Here are some photos as promised!

These are rated at 6500K but it's closer to 6000K.

If you are intending to go out for LEDs in any reflector housing, my suggestion is not to cheap out on it.

Been experimenting with different types of headlights in cars and motorcycles and so far, IPF X2 nailed it with the retrofit better than any brand so far (especially the Philips Xtreme Ultinons)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...6eb964c26a.jpg
RHD Low beam
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...abbe7faeaa.jpg
High beam
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...2c12d448e6.jpg
Taken just above the Honda emblem
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...bb41755522.jpg
RHD Low beam cut off

Photos I promised..
 

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...18cc3c96f1.jpg
RHD Low beam

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...61e0d24084.jpg
High beam


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...3e38be1f05.jpg
Taken at hip level


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...bc0db0f7ce.jpg

Has anyone tried these in their Fit? This seems to be superbrightleds' brightest H4 bulb. They claim 2500 lumens each and a color temperature of 6500 K without any of the adhesive film sleeves stuck on. It's not clear where that 2500 lumen number is coming from. Is that the high beam filament, the low beam filament, or the total of the 2 filaments? From a conversation with a representative: he said the lamps may or may not light when supplied with the car's daytime running light pulse width modulated voltage but that neither the lamps nor the car's electronics would be harmed by supplying the lamps with that voltage. He said if they do light up most likely it would be at the same brightness as they would have at 12-14 volts.

I have a flashlights that changes brightness when you turn it off then back on. I wonder if there are LED headlamps that can do that?

chiming in again since I have become dissapointed with my replacement LED bulbs ( These ) DRL are fine, no flicker, but i feel the projected brightness isnt out as far as I want, and the close in fill isnt as good as I want them to be. I have really noticed it a lot more driving in places where there are no streetlights and hardly any other cars next to me that seem to enhance my cars lighting.

I probably can adjust them, but I am scared to raise the cutoff any higher for fear of blinding oncoming traffic. I light even just pick up bright halogens to compare to make sure im not being dense ..

Interesting. They rate those at 4000 lumens per set, (that is 2000 lumens for each of the lamps, which means only 1000 lumen for each "filament substitute), for each of the 3 LED units that substitute for a filamnet). I think the standard halogens are rated at more than 1000 lumens per filament, making them brighter than these LED units.

The top of the line superbrightled h4 headlamp, the one I mention in my msg above, is rated by superbrightleds at 5000 lumens total for the 2 lamps. 1250 for each filament, about the same as each filament in a halogen. I'm still searching for the exact info on halogen filaments.

Here is someone who says he actually tested the actual wattage, of different H4 halogen bulbs, at different voltages, (12, 12.5, and 13.2 volts) . And who tested their actual lumens.

This is one of few places where the person sounds like he actually knows what he is doing.

I understand how volts, watts, and amps work, and their relationships, but I don't understand how lumens work, what exactly 1 lumen means in terms of light output. I'm not sure how to interpret the claims made by superbrighleds.com but I get the feeling they are giving more honest info than that claimed for many other brands such as those sold on Amazon or ebay. I am not at all sure sure but I suspect that lumen info is not useful unless you state how many lumens there are at what distance from the emitter, and comparisons may be useless unless you compare the lumens of one bulb with the lumens of another, when they are both measured at the same distance from the bulb's light emitter.

For whatever it is worth, I post this link.

Check out "raw vs effective" lumens. Those LED "filaments" with 1000 "raw" lumens each, put out an effective 600 lumens? So compare that to a halogen that puts out 900 lumens on hgiht beam, 600 lumens on low beam. Are those effective lumens? Probably. Making the LEDs no brighter than the halogens. I suppose I could be wrong. But if it is so, then if you got these superbrightleds, selling at $79.95, they would be be just a tiny bit brighter than halogen lamps. Noticeably brighter but not "alot" brighter.

Also note, that with an H4 lamp, only 1 of its 2 filaments goes on at a time. With halogens, the high beam is brighter, about 1.5 times as bright as the low beam. But with the superbrightled H4, the high beam is the same brightness as the low beam. Each "filament" seems to be composed of the same 3 or 4 leds.

after doing a little bit more reading, i have decided to stay away from LED for a little while.

I dun think there is any good single LED headlights that i use due to various factors...

Anyone try these? They have the aluminum heat fins on the back not sure of fitment though,

Those seem to be superbrightleds.com's brightest lamps. 6000 lumens total. So each "filament" would be 1500 lumens, as compared to a halogen lamps 900 high beam 600 low beam lumens. Assuming the company isn't exaggerating. I was wonderting too, if there would be enough room for the fins.

The co provides a CRI spec, of 74, which suggests that things illuminated by the lamps should look pretty close to the way they do in natural light. Unusual for co to provide this spec.

" Each headlight bulb has 2 rows of LEDs that are activated individually for high- or low-beam settings. Only 1 row of LEDs is in use at any given time, and intensity is the same for both sets."

I think "rows" must the the wrong word here. Pictures suggests that each unit has 16 LEDs, 8 for the low beam, and 8 for the high beam. But the 8 LEDs for each beam would not be arranged in a row, There would 4 LEDs on one side of the board, and 4 on the other side of the board.

I spoke to a superbrightleds.com representative on the phone about this unit. Take what he said with a grain of salt, but he said that the pulse-width modulated voltage from the car's electrical system that is supplied to the high beam "filaments" to provide a DRL function would cause the high beam LEDs to light up, but the would be the same brightness as they would be at 12 volts. He also claimed that the pulse width modulated voltage would not damage the lamps, nor would the lamps cause any damage to the car's electrical system.

Interestingly, for these 2 lamps, one described as 5000 lumens for the pair of lamps, and the other as 6000 lumens, they use the same exact pair of comparison photos when comparing their LED headlamps with ordinary halogen headlamps. So much for their honesty in regard to what the photos show.