devmail's 2007 SSM GD3 build - The Grey Goose
#101
well we couldn't finish last night because of a rusted mount bolt on the tranny mount. Attempt number 2 tonight, as of right now the passenger side mount is in, the rear was tediously removed, just not installed yet.
#102
Done!
85A shakes yo sheeeot! One does acclimatize to it somewhat, however I wouldn't recommend it for daily driving. Some might like it, but most won't. So far the wife and kids are fine.....so far, lol.
Aesthetically speaking it really cleans up the passenger side engine bay, especially along side the blox EGR delete and A/C removal.
85A shakes yo sheeeot! One does acclimatize to it somewhat, however I wouldn't recommend it for daily driving. Some might like it, but most won't. So far the wife and kids are fine.....so far, lol.
Aesthetically speaking it really cleans up the passenger side engine bay, especially along side the blox EGR delete and A/C removal.
#103
I'm also using PL premium to fill the front lower trans mount which isn't replaced by innovatice. Pics to follow.
#105
well I had a lot of trouble but we did mine in a different order: passenger side mount first (no problems), drivers side mount 2nd (some trouble getting the bottom holes lined up but eventually got it) and then the rear mount gave us the most problems. It was fixed by attaching it to the subframe first, then loosening the oem bracket so it moves back and lines up with the mount holes, insert pin, then register those 3 bracket bolts attaching to the trans/engine. I didn't have to modify the passenger side mount but you will need some bolts and washers for a proper set up. I bought my kit used so I'm not sure which bolts come with the kit.
#106
Removed the above bracket, not needed with stiff innovative mounts. Waiting for a new filled stock mount to fully cure, then will test for any noticeable differences between with mount and without mount driving. Total weight savings of switching to innovative mounts is 7.0 lbs so far, maybe more with what's left to switch around.
#107
Not bad. What are you filling your mounts with? By saying that you removed the "bracket with a heavy piece of rubber that is not used after initial install at the factory", are you referring to the NVH damping block on the subframe?
#108
I used Pl premium construction adhesive. And yes that must be it, I didn't realize it had that function too. this is it below:
#109
That's it! Rather than have the added cost of using 1mm thicker steel on the subframe they add a cheap $.30 block of rubber. A lot of European manufacturer's use them on various components as well (exhausts, axles, etc); quality engineering for you... But it works! Although in this case the Fit is a tin can from the get go, so idk why Honda bothered. "Ooo, let's add some $.30 luxury for the NA market"
#110
That's it! Rather than have the added cost of using 1mm thicker steel on the subframe they add a cheap $.30 block of rubber. A lot of European manufacturer's use them on various components as well (exhausts, axles, etc); quality engineering for you... But it works! Although in this case the Fit is a tin can from the get go, so idk why Honda bothered. "Ooo, let's add some $.30 luxury for the NA market"
#113
Holy crap! A very late but deserved congrats man. I missed all of this. Going to watch the video in a second.
#114
Thanks buddy! Lots of room for improvement. Going back this August for another try. Still saving for that clutch and flywheel but if I don't get those in, I am going to stick with the 60 shot direct port and hope the stock clutch holds. Otherwise I'll focus on getting a 15 second N/A run! Have you been working on your Fit at all?
I do have some things I am going to try this year:
1)More weight reduction: remove rear bumper and bumper support, install the ballistic 8 cell with lighter tray (didn't have proper tie downs for it last year to pass tech.)
2)If running nitrous, remove the axleback and long mid pipe for weight and less backpressure, install homemade turn down or side exit exhaust tip. Nitrous loves a big exit! Also I got some 1 step colder NGK copper race plugs to help dissipate heat. If not running nitrous, remove the exhaust silencer...its a bugger to get out but may net some top end power.
3)Lower tire pressure (was probably at 40 psi last year)
4) -1.5 degrees camber up front, supposed to be good for traction. As the weight shifts back, the camber will zero out giving more traction.
#115
Thanks buddy! Lots of room for improvement. Going back this August for another try. Still saving for that clutch and flywheel but if I don't get those in, I am going to stick with the 60 shot direct port and hope the stock clutch holds. Otherwise I'll focus on getting a 15 second N/A run! Have you been working on your Fit at all?
I do have some things I am going to try this year:
1)More weight reduction: remove rear bumper and bumper support, install the ballistic 8 cell with lighter tray (didn't have proper tie downs for it last year to pass tech.)
2)If running nitrous, remove the axleback and long mid pipe for weight and less backpressure, install homemade turn down or side exit exhaust tip. Nitrous loves a big exit! Also I got some 1 step colder NGK copper race plugs to help dissipate heat. If not running nitrous, remove the exhaust silencer...its a bugger to get out but may net some top end power.
3)Lower tire pressure (was probably at 40 psi last year)
4) -1.5 degrees camber up front, supposed to be good for traction. As the weight shifts back, the camber will zero out giving more traction.
I do have some things I am going to try this year:
1)More weight reduction: remove rear bumper and bumper support, install the ballistic 8 cell with lighter tray (didn't have proper tie downs for it last year to pass tech.)
2)If running nitrous, remove the axleback and long mid pipe for weight and less backpressure, install homemade turn down or side exit exhaust tip. Nitrous loves a big exit! Also I got some 1 step colder NGK copper race plugs to help dissipate heat. If not running nitrous, remove the exhaust silencer...its a bugger to get out but may net some top end power.
3)Lower tire pressure (was probably at 40 psi last year)
4) -1.5 degrees camber up front, supposed to be good for traction. As the weight shifts back, the camber will zero out giving more traction.
I have not been doing anything with the fit for over a year now. I contacted Speedfactory to see if anything else could be tuned with our engines using Ktuner (Outside of ignition timing, air/fuel ratios and a little bit of cam timing) and there has been no more progress there. Was hoping possibly some tinkering with the VVTi or more on cam angles (Stuff I know nothing about). So have since taken my intake back to stock, kind of and been driving. No racing or anything. Not sure what else I can get into N/A wise and weight loss is limited to only the rear seats and car jack, due to driving the family around.
So...just watching you here and maybe 1 or 2 other threads.
#116
I see! So you have had your engine tuned then? Any dyno results? That 15.2 1/4 mile is still impressive especially with CVT. AND especially since it took me 75 extra hp to get a 14.8 lol.
#117
Got the exhaust tip finished!
Used my old broken DC axle back to make this turn-down tip. This will go on the first shorter intermediate pipe. Only for track use while under nitrous. Will get rid of most of the weight of the axle back and long intermediate pipe. Win win!
My helper, my son Yuuki!
Not too shabby!
Used my old broken DC axle back to make this turn-down tip. This will go on the first shorter intermediate pipe. Only for track use while under nitrous. Will get rid of most of the weight of the axle back and long intermediate pipe. Win win!
My helper, my son Yuuki!
Not too shabby!
#119
#120
Had the long mid pipe and axleback off to check weight: 20.8 lbs. In the process I also discovered the exhaust was broken between the resonator and the flange. Not my fault I assure you! That explains the hissing sound I would hear occasionally while getting on it. Oh well, looks like it can be fixed with some welding or even better, weld in a bigger resonator. The DC exhaust is loud even with the silencer.