Hey all, this is the build thread of my 2007 Honda Fit LX 5 spd which I USED to call "The Grey Goose" and now its a dedicated drag car that I call the LOL_FIT!

My goals for this daily driver is a consistent 15 second 1/4 mile naturally aspirated with bolt-ons and weight reduction, 14s with nitrous.

**update** This car is now becoming a hopefully steetable drag car. It is no longer my daily driver. I have a very comfortable daily now, a very stock 2018 Honda Fit..."the Wife's Car." : rotfl :

Current mods:

Engine:
PRM intake with custom ram air
R18 throttle body
Weapon R 4-2-1 long tube race header
Weapon R intake manifold
DC Sports 2.25" catback exhaust with silencer
Unorthodox Racing crank and alternator pullies,
NGK R5671A-7 copper spark plugs
skunk 2 thermal intake manifold gasket
throttle body coolant bypass
skunk 2 rad hoses/rad cap/reservoir covers/oil cap/battery tie down
Blox EGR block off plate
Innovative poly mounts 85A painted black
Ballistic Evo2 8 cell 2 lb battery

Nitrous:
Dynotune basic kit w/ 10 lbs bottle
Dynotune direct port conversion
Dynotune bottle warmer and purge kit
Innovate PSN-1 power safe AFR and bottle PSI gauge
Nitrous bottle relocated to firewall and using a 4 ft feed line


Wheels/Suspension:
F&F Type II coilovers
GE8 hybrid-look wheels with crappy tires for now

Brakes:
Wilwood DPHA front calipers, slotted/drilled rotors

Exterior:

black housing headlights
black emblems, hood, hatch
limo tint
skunk2 license plate frame

Interior:
RJ maxx lightweight steering wheel
NRG carbon fiber Honda horn button
Skunk 2 shift knob
T1R ebrake cover
leather shift boot with red stitch
black painted trim
houndstooth headliner
JDM hazard switch and coin holder
Weather tech digital fit floor mats
UltraGauge
RCI poly seats with custom brackets

Here it is when I got it in december of 2014.




I paid $3200-ish CAD. It had 250,000 kms, was parked in a snow bank, full of dog hair/stink, had rust repaired and repainted the wrong color, leaked in the trunk and 3 doors and had an automatic ECU. I assume water somehow got to the ECU and the owner accidentally bought an auto ECU. Needless to say it had CELs for the O2 sensor and a few other things. Most were fixed by putting in a manual ECU and replacing the O2 sensor. All leaks were painstakingly fixed and I weighed most interior pieces in the process.

My first modification? A super stubby 1.5" antenna!


Sometime after that I got a set of VX wheels, repainted them flat black and proceeded to spend way too much time grinding down the stock front calipers to make them "Fit." It worked well enough. Yes, those are winter tires. Also painted the headlights and eventually the emblems and tailights and interior trims.


Little did I realize, all that steel dust embedded itself into my paint. Time for IronX!





Next on the list was T1R S-coils and new tires. I wanted to try smaller diameter tires and went with 175/60r13s. This gave lots of noticeable low-end torque and the light weight (22 lbs total per corner) improved mileage.

T1R s-coils on winter tires 175/70r13


175/60r13 tires


The drawbacks to this size: Only R compound or All Seasons, more fender gap, lowered the car another 0.6"

So after a couple weeks, my front passenger strut blew. Rather than paying $800 for new front struts, I decided to get with Function and Form Type IIs.


Due to the tiny tires, I was scraping on lots of stuff. Very stressful to drive this way! I decided to raise the car up so there was a 2 finger gap all around between tire and fender. Prior to this I had Unorthodox Racing pullies, an eBay cheapo CAI, and ballistic 8 cell battery installed. Also bought a Summit G2100 seat and made my own brackets to install it (check out my sig). And somewhere along the line I removed all A/C components! Oh and I found a great deal on a Tanabe Concept G axleback, which sounds perfect I might add.













Had the rust on the floorboards near the driver's and passengers' feet sanded off and repainted.

On my family trip to Japan I found great deals on LED taillights and 3rd brake light:


After being advised that my newly grinded brakes might not pass vehicle inspection, I decided to buy the Wilwood DPHA calipers (not installed yet). This needed 15" wheels so for now I am rockin Integra LS mesh wheels (which were sitting outside in someones yard, bought for $150) and new Toyo T1Rs in 195/45R15.

Here is after a few hours of sanding with a drill and brass brushes:


Tires waiting to go on


Installed, repainted gloss black, sorry not the clearest shots:



Decided to sell my eBay CAI, and bought a PRM intake to make my own ram air style intake. This is definitely function over form, not everyone's cup of tea but i like it.




Next I wanted to reduce more weight so I found this gnarly wheel that weighs 0.9 lbs. Unfortunately it was 5 bolt or 3 bolt only, so I found a 0.5" adapter from Forever Sharp steering online. Magically, it also works with regular momo style horn buttons, joy. Again, more for function than form. The momo wheel I am replacing has such a great feel to it but alas, I need to lose that weight!




What's next?

-Install Wilwood DPHA calipers (reduce weight by about 8 lbs total)
-Install Civic R18 throttle body ($63 CAD shipped to my door, totally worth it)
-Either finish exhaust with custom piping OR buy a catback exhaust (skunk2 looks nice, awaiting a deal on a used one as it is discontinued)
-Wait patiently for a Weapon R 4-2-1 long tube race header (5-10 whp across the powerband, don't mind if I do)
-Possibly build a conversion harness for using the JDM Fit gauge cluster
-remove more surface rust around the bumper supports and engine bay


And someday...have the car repainted! And actually get to the 1/4 mile track to race. Nearest one is about 2 hrs away unfortunately and with my work schedule its hard to get weekends free.

 

New from calipers on! Wilwood DPHA. First time doing this work, took about 3 hours including bleeding the brakes. Stops on a dime now!

 

New NRG Carbon Fiber horn button. Had to install this a bit different than the MOMO one but it turned out looking better IMO.

 

Torque Solutions Civic R18 throttle body spacer installed, needed to buy longer bolts than what came with the kit. Waiting for a working R18 throttle body to come in the mail.

 

That is a very interesting steering wheel. It would probably melt my hands here in FL.

 

Any noticeable gains with the spacer and throttle body added?

 

Haven't had a chance to floor it yet! just got code p1683...may be due to a faulty sensor or the idle needs adjusting. I'm thinking it's the first one since this did not happen a couple days ago.

 

I love the fab work of that steering wheel. If I was balls to the wall serious about weight reduction I would look into that.

Any thoughts on getting a cam to help open up the power band?

 

Yes I've drooled over those thoughts. We will see what time brings and how much money I'll have.

I finally located a used weapon r race header, conveniently after I purchased a Strup header, lol.


Needs a good cleaning and a new flex pipe but it was a good deal. I'll have to have a bung for the wideband welded on at the same time.

 

Nice build

 

Congrats on getting the race header, it'll make a world of difference for sure.

Since you have the strup header was wondering how the bore sizes compare to the stock header in our cars. I saw a review of the stock next to the dc header and it was the same bore size.

 

Got some new miscellaneous items:

TopGaiters (eBay) genuine leather shift boot and T1R ebrake cover



Skunk2 rad hoses, rad cap, res covers. Received a fake skunk2 oil cap and returned it. Seller was "Honus64" :-/


R18 throttle body is also on and working but needs its idle adjusted.
There may be more low end grunt due to the spacer with a bit on top due to the extra 5 mm of intake diameter on the TB.

Also a thermal intake manifold gasket


Also my wife was a big help with this houndstooth headliner! Also painted the trim black, I love it!

 

I'll compare them when the stock is removed.

 

Thanks, if the strup is bigger than stock i'll buy yours. If you got the oem heatshield still, can you check if it'll be able to mount perfectly if mounting points were welded onto it.

Thanks.

 

Will do! Don't have the heat shield anymore tho. I'm fairly sure the primaries are 2-3 mm bigger than stock, if you search posts on the DC header on here you will find that as well. This explains the little or no loss on the low end but gains at the top end. I'll compare it to the weapon r race also.

 

I am guessing the Strup header is a DC replica. From what I have read the DC has primaries that are 3mm larger (31mm) than OEM (28mm). Probably also has a better flow path than OEM.
Are the primaries actually even with the manifold mounting surface? Most I have seen are usually recessed a little bit but in the pics of the Strup it looks...strange I guess.

On another note, how are you feeling about the F&F2 coilovers so far?

 

Looks good to me:


I like the F&F Type 2, price is great, ride is a little rougher than stock, comparable to the T1R springs actually. I haven't turned the damping up past 8 clicks yet but I imagine full stiffness will be great at the drag track.

Not sure if I mentioned that I installed an Ingalls engine torque damper a while back. I turned it on near full stiffness and I love it, shifts are smooth, no strong vibes in the cabin but it is noticeable. It's also a worthwhile investment. I plan on getting the innovative mounts when the stock ones fail.

 

So I got the skunk2 thermal IM gasket installed. Saw the valve cover for the first time and brushed off lots of dirt. Also ran a proper TB coolant bypass hose with black silicone coolant tubing.




Had code p2176 upon start up which was fixed by resetting the battery.

I also lined up the TB thermal gasket better since the firewall side had some portion that could cause turbulence. I just moved the butterfly plate into full throttle position to confirm.

Last night I also got the AEM AFR gauge powered up. Need to run the wiring for the wideband portion, which will be installed on this:

 

Nice build! I need to get back on the boards more to catch up on all my reading. Your car is my weight-loss idol. Need to keep up with following it.

 

Thank you! I should have a weapon r race header and full 2.25" catback installed (DC sports) within the next couple weeks. We will see if there is a weight savings.