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devmail's 2007 SSM GD3 build - The Grey Goose
26 Attachment(s)
Hey all, this is the build thread of my 2007 Honda Fit LX 5 spd which I USED to call "The Grey Goose" and now its a dedicated drag car that I call the LOL_FIT! :rotfl:
My goals for this daily driver is a consistent 15 second 1/4 mile naturally aspirated with bolt-ons and weight reduction, 14s with nitrous. **update** This car is now becoming a hopefully steetable drag car. It is no longer my daily driver. I have a very comfortable daily now, a very stock 2018 Honda Fit..."the Wife's Car." : rotfl : Current mods: Engine: PRM intake with custom ram air R18 throttle body Weapon R 4-2-1 long tube race header Weapon R intake manifold DC Sports 2.25" catback exhaust with silencer Unorthodox Racing crank and alternator pullies, NGK R5671A-7 copper spark plugs skunk 2 thermal intake manifold gasket throttle body coolant bypass skunk 2 rad hoses/rad cap/reservoir covers/oil cap/battery tie down Blox EGR block off plate Innovative poly mounts 85A painted black Ballistic Evo2 8 cell 2 lb battery Nitrous: Dynotune basic kit w/ 10 lbs bottle Dynotune direct port conversion Dynotune bottle warmer and purge kit Innovate PSN-1 power safe AFR and bottle PSI gauge Nitrous bottle relocated to firewall and using a 4 ft feed line Wheels/Suspension: F&F Type II coilovers GE8 hybrid-look wheels with crappy tires for now Brakes: Wilwood DPHA front calipers, slotted/drilled rotors Exterior: black housing headlights black emblems, hood, hatch limo tint skunk2 license plate frame Interior: RJ maxx lightweight steering wheel NRG carbon fiber Honda horn button Skunk 2 shift knob T1R ebrake cover leather shift boot with red stitch black painted trim houndstooth headliner JDM hazard switch and coin holder Weather tech digital fit floor mats UltraGauge RCI poly seats with custom brackets Here it is when I got it in december of 2014. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 I paid $3200-ish CAD. It had 250,000 kms, was parked in a snow bank, full of dog hair/stink, had rust repaired and repainted the wrong color, leaked in the trunk and 3 doors and had an automatic ECU. I assume water somehow got to the ECU and the owner accidentally bought an auto ECU. Needless to say it had CELs for the O2 sensor and a few other things. Most were fixed by putting in a manual ECU and replacing the O2 sensor. All leaks were painstakingly fixed and I weighed most interior pieces in the process. My first modification? A super stubby 1.5" antenna! https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Sometime after that I got a set of VX wheels, repainted them flat black and proceeded to spend way too much time grinding down the stock front calipers to make them "Fit." It worked well enough. Yes, those are winter tires. Also painted the headlights and eventually the emblems and tailights and interior trims. :wavey: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Little did I realize, all that steel dust embedded itself into my paint. Time for IronX! https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Next on the list was T1R S-coils and new tires. I wanted to try smaller diameter tires and went with 175/60r13s. This gave lots of noticeable low-end torque and the light weight (22 lbs total per corner) improved mileage. T1R s-coils on winter tires 175/70r13 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 175/60r13 tires https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 The drawbacks to this size: Only R compound or All Seasons, more fender gap, lowered the car another 0.6" So after a couple weeks, my front passenger strut blew. Rather than paying $800 for new front struts, I decided to get with Function and Form Type IIs. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Due to the tiny tires, I was scraping on lots of stuff. Very stressful to drive this way! I decided to raise the car up so there was a 2 finger gap all around between tire and fender. Prior to this I had Unorthodox Racing pullies, an eBay cheapo CAI, and ballistic 8 cell battery installed. Also bought a Summit G2100 seat and made my own brackets to install it (check out my sig). And somewhere along the line I removed all A/C components! Oh and I found a great deal on a Tanabe Concept G axleback, which sounds perfect I might add. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Had the rust on the floorboards near the driver's and passengers' feet sanded off and repainted. On my family trip to Japan I found great deals on LED taillights and 3rd brake light: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 After being advised that my newly grinded brakes might not pass vehicle inspection, I decided to buy the Wilwood DPHA calipers (not installed yet). This needed 15" wheels so for now I am rockin Integra LS mesh wheels (which were sitting outside in someones yard, bought for $150) and new Toyo T1Rs in 195/45R15. Here is after a few hours of sanding with a drill and brass brushes: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Tires waiting to go on https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Installed, repainted gloss black, sorry not the clearest shots: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Decided to sell my eBay CAI, and bought a PRM intake to make my own ram air style intake. This is definitely function over form, not everyone's cup of tea but i like it. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 Next I wanted to reduce more weight so I found this gnarly wheel that weighs 0.9 lbs. Unfortunately it was 5 bolt or 3 bolt only, so I found a 0.5" adapter from Forever Sharp steering online. Magically, it also works with regular momo style horn buttons, joy.:wiggle: Again, more for function than form. The momo wheel I am replacing has such a great feel to it but alas, I need to lose that weight! :nod: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/atta...ine=1445042008 What's next? -Install Wilwood DPHA calipers (reduce weight by about 8 lbs total) -Install Civic R18 throttle body ($63 CAD shipped to my door, totally worth it) -Either finish exhaust with custom piping OR buy a catback exhaust (skunk2 looks nice, awaiting a deal on a used one as it is discontinued) -Wait patiently for a Weapon R 4-2-1 long tube race header (5-10 whp across the powerband, don't mind if I do) -Possibly build a conversion harness for using the JDM Fit gauge cluster -remove more surface rust around the bumper supports and engine bay And someday...have the car repainted! And actually get to the 1/4 mile track to race. Nearest one is about 2 hrs away unfortunately and with my work schedule its hard to get weekends free. :mad: |
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New from calipers on! Wilwood DPHA. First time doing this work, took about 3 hours including bleeding the brakes. Stops on a dime now!
Attachment 10963 Attachment 10964 |
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New NRG Carbon Fiber horn button. Had to install this a bit different than the MOMO one but it turned out looking better IMO. :)
Attachment 10949 Attachment 10950 |
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Torque Solutions Civic R18 throttle body spacer installed, needed to buy longer bolts than what came with the kit. Waiting for a working R18 throttle body to come in the mail.
Attachment 10944 |
That is a very interesting steering wheel. It would probably melt my hands here in FL.
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Any noticeable gains with the spacer and throttle body added?
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Haven't had a chance to floor it yet! :) just got code p1683...may be due to a faulty sensor or the idle needs adjusting. I'm thinking it's the first one since this did not happen a couple days ago.
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I love the fab work of that steering wheel. If I was balls to the wall serious about weight reduction I would look into that.
Any thoughts on getting a cam to help open up the power band? |
Originally Posted by kylerwho
(Post 1314103)
I love the fab work of that steering wheel. If I was balls to the wall serious about weight reduction I would look into that.
Any thoughts on getting a cam to help open up the power band? I finally located a used weapon r race header, conveniently after I purchased a Strup header, lol. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psiz4en4uo.jpg Needs a good cleaning and a new flex pipe but it was a good deal. I'll have to have a bung for the wideband welded on at the same time. |
Nice build
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Congrats on getting the race header, it'll make a world of difference for sure.
Since you have the strup header was wondering how the bore sizes compare to the stock header in our cars. I saw a review of the stock next to the dc header and it was the same bore size. |
3 Attachment(s)
Got some new miscellaneous items:
TopGaiters (eBay) genuine leather shift boot and T1R ebrake cover http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psprp63tle.jpg Skunk2 rad hoses, rad cap, res covers. Received a fake skunk2 oil cap and returned it. Seller was "Honus64" :-/ Attachment 10729 R18 throttle body is also on and working but needs its idle adjusted. There may be more low end grunt due to the spacer with a bit on top due to the extra 5 mm of intake diameter on the TB. Also a thermal intake manifold gasket Attachment 10730 Also my wife was a big help with this houndstooth headliner! Also painted the trim black, I love it! Attachment 10731 |
Originally Posted by derykisonder
(Post 1317493)
Congrats on getting the race header, it'll make a world of difference for sure.
Since you have the strup header was wondering how the bore sizes compare to the stock header in our cars. I saw a review of the stock next to the dc header and it was the same bore size. |
Originally Posted by devmail
(Post 1317504)
I'll compare them when the stock is removed.
Thanks. |
Originally Posted by derykisonder
(Post 1317554)
Thanks, if the strup is bigger than stock i'll buy yours. If you got the oem heatshield still, can you check if it'll be able to mount perfectly if mounting points were welded onto it.
Thanks. |
I am guessing the Strup header is a DC replica. From what I have read the DC has primaries that are 3mm larger (31mm) than OEM (28mm). Probably also has a better flow path than OEM.
Are the primaries actually even with the manifold mounting surface? Most I have seen are usually recessed a little bit but in the pics of the Strup it looks...strange I guess. On another note, how are you feeling about the F&F2 coilovers so far? |
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Originally Posted by domoMKIV
(Post 1317672)
I am guessing the Strup header is a DC replica. From what I have read the DC has primaries that are 3mm larger (31mm) than OEM (28mm). Probably also has a better flow path than OEM.
Are the primaries actually even with the manifold mounting surface? Most I have seen are usually recessed a little bit but in the pics of the Strup it looks...strange I guess. On another note, how are you feeling about the F&F2 coilovers so far? Attachment 10721 I like the F&F Type 2, price is great, ride is a little rougher than stock, comparable to the T1R springs actually. I haven't turned the damping up past 8 clicks yet but I imagine full stiffness will be great at the drag track. Not sure if I mentioned that I installed an Ingalls engine torque damper a while back. I turned it on near full stiffness and I love it, shifts are smooth, no strong vibes in the cabin but it is noticeable. It's also a worthwhile investment. I plan on getting the innovative mounts when the stock ones fail. |
3 Attachment(s)
So I got the skunk2 thermal IM gasket installed. Saw the valve cover for the first time and brushed off lots of dirt. Also ran a proper TB coolant bypass hose with black silicone coolant tubing.
Attachment 10713 Attachment 10714 Had code p2176 upon start up which was fixed by resetting the battery. I also lined up the TB thermal gasket better since the firewall side had some portion that could cause turbulence. I just moved the butterfly plate into full throttle position to confirm. Last night I also got the AEM AFR gauge powered up. Need to run the wiring for the wideband portion, which will be installed on this: Attachment 10715 |
Nice build! I need to get back on the boards more to catch up on all my reading. Your car is my weight-loss idol. :) Need to keep up with following it.
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Thank you! I should have a weapon r race header and full 2.25" catback installed (DC sports) within the next couple weeks. We will see if there is a weight savings. :)
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