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- - Rotor screws (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-suspension-brake-modifications/76817-rotor-screws.html)

I've been searching the forums for the size of the screws. I changed my rotors & pads. And one of the screws on each rotor got stripped so I'm running only one screw each. It's been bugging me that the rotor is not seating evenly so I wanna buy replacement screws. Anyone know the size, I remember reading about someone buying replacement screws from Home Depot and it worked just as good as the oem ones.

First of all why not just take one of the existing screws out and take it to the local hardware store.

Second, if the hardware store does not have them why not just go to Honda. They can not be very expensive.

Third, it will work just fine with no screws. The rotors are held in place by installing the wheels and tightening the lug nuts. The screws just hold the rotors in place while shipping them to the final assembly plant location.

Quote:

Originally Posted by n9cv (Post 1165252)

First It won't work just as fine with no screws. I drove my car with one of the screws loose on one of the rotors & it shook like heck while braking. My lugs were torqued to its specs & everything was aligned.

Second I was just wondering the size so that way I could go pick it up at Home Depot (which is closer to my house) but if not ill just buy it at honda since I have to pick up ATF fluid anyway.

The screws are only for assembly convenience. It will work fine. Myself and many others are running this way.

Your shudder under braking problem was that one screw was missing and the torque of braking forced the rotor to pivot around the single screw you had installed taking up the clearance the rotor has on the opposite studs causing a misalignment of the braking surfaces.

Mine also have no screws. If you is shuttering you have other problems like hot spots, rust spots, surface imperfections, or lubricant on rotors. You may also have improperly installed rotor(s) or wheels. Be sure to torque the lug nuts when reinstalling the wheels. The screws are not the problem, but you can still replace them if it makes you happy. They are cheap for your peace of mind.

While you are replacing the screws, Clean (with brake cleaner) and thoroughly inspect both surfaces of the rotors for your shuddering problem. Do not handle the rotors by their shiny surface after cleaning and during re-installation.

The rotor screws are horrible and can be safely left OFF.

I race my fit and am on the brakes hard all the time. I dont run screws. No problem. Like someone said they are only for assembly.

I bought two brand new screws to replace the two that was missing. Damn should've save some money & just removed the ones that were currently on.

@coupdetat what's so horrible about them?

Getting them loose sometime is a real pain. Put a small dab of anti-seize on the threads when you install them. Then next time you hopefully will not have a hard time getting them out again. I had to use an impact phillips to get mine loose the first time. I do not know why the Japanese love phillips head bolts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by n9cv (Post 1165705)

My impact driver was MIA/Broke last time I had to do the job, so this was my solution:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters (Post 1071738)

So upon finally retrieving the shots I took when we did this, I present to you a very fast, economical alternative to removing those ridiculous rotor-to-hub screws we all know and love.

For the un-initiated this is what I am talking about:
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5...boinstall2.png

Those two yellow spots opposite eachother on the rotor hub between the studs.

Now drilling, torching and all manners of swearing and hammering will do you little to no good and will take a long time. Obviously you could go out and buy an impact driver with the proper sized phillips bit, but where is the fun in that?

Instead, you could get BOTH sides done and out of your way with a big f*cking hammer, a pneumatic cut-off wheel and some vise-grips.

First completely remove the caliber assembly, saddle bracket etc:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/933...lebracket1.png

Then start cutting a DEEP "x" into the heads of the screws, you are throwing the rotors out after anyways so save yourself the headache and just go to town right off the bat. DO NOT HIT THE STUDS or you will be really pissed with yourself and potentially roller-blading to work.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1...rewcutting.png

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8...ewcutting3.png

When thats done you should be left with something that looks like this:
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/7...ewcutting2.png

Then its time to go to town with the hammer and wiggle the rotor off the now collapsed screw heads. Then take a vice grip and twist the remainder of the screws out:
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/5...torscrews1.png

:thumbups:

Our old cars, 70's stuff didn't have screws.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sh00k (Post 1165702)

I bought two brand new screws to replace the two that was missing. Damn should've save some money & just removed the ones that were currently on.

@coupdetat what's so horrible about them?

They're horrible because they are extremely tight and also extremely soft. They strip very quickly. And I've broken two impact drivers so far trying to remove them from various Hondas. These days I just get the drill out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupdetat (Post 1165985)

Which I believe is how I broke my impact driver and had to cut them out lol

I used to use an impact driver till i broke too many bits. I now use a number 3 phillips screw driver and hammer it into the screw. About 4 or 5 times. It seats the screw driver in the screw tight and also breaks the rust free on the threads. I then grab a pair of channel lock pliers and grip it to the handle portion of the screw driver and twist while pressing with my other hand at the very end of the screw driver.

90% of the time this works it the head isnt too messed up.