Yeah those are the ones I was looking at. I like them cause they have the "ports" on the side. That and it looks like I have iron man's fist sitting in my headlights

 

Do check out HIDplanet's site for information.

For my DS2 setup, it didn't require any cutting. It took more time to take the lights off the car than anything else. For the projectors itself, the H4 hold is large enough for the the projector to go through and it is held in place withe the H4 shape washer/adapter. This helps with keeping the projector somewhat horizontally aimed. It'll need some tweaking to get it right though. I used Appollo shrouds so it filled up the reflector bowl nicely. I have a set of the Gatling Gun but end up using the Appollos.

Like the H1, if you ever needed to revert back to stock, it's possible because there wasn't any cutting done. Unless you painted your reflectors or anything else on the housing, only the bulb shield was removed with a screw.

 

Just to chime in, Matt and Nate are great guys to work with. Ive bought two full kits from them (fxr and mh1) and both have been great. I am running the mh1's in the fit and I have to retro the fxr in my other beast. Ive been very happy with my mh1's although I would suggest some wd-40 in the solenoid as mine were sticking until I did that. Maybe the later versions fixed this but it doesnt hurt to add some anyways....better safe than sorry

 

Here's another ge8 with morimoto d2s projectors.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-mini-d2s.html

 

I agree with you that if he gets the Gen3, he should use WD-40 or some derivitive... However if he gets the Gen4 (4.0), he should be good. Matt told me that they are coming with some heavy duty solenoids.

 

Mini H1 didnt require any cutting worked fine, so far so good on my 55w ...my friend runs the 35w morimoto ballast, i cant give up the 55w output

 

Yeah, I got them when they first came out..so I wasnt even sure they changed the design at all. Even still with gen4, I would put a bit in the solenoid piston for safe measure...You don't want that solenoid sticking when your retro is all sealed up. Granted, a beefier magnet should suffice but I *always* do everything I can to prevent malfunctions. It only takes seconds to do.

It is good that they are changing the solenoids though...

 

From the way it sounds, with the MH1 you wouldn't need to cut anything... It seems like you'd need to find a way to make it actually stay put because its smaller than the diameter of the bulb hole in the Fit. If the D2S works in the Fit without needing any kind of trimming or anything, the MH1 can't work just as well. It would be too small to have a perfect fit. You'd need to find a way to mount it securely.

For example, MH1 is a perfect fit for 9006 bulb holes (and other bulbs of the same size) like in my Accord... That being said, the D2S would be too big, and I'd need to trim the bulb hole to make it bigger so the threads can fit through the whole. You have the exact opposite situation with Fit lights.

Before you say you can't live without your 55W, take a look at this thread:
MINI H1 after 1 year exposure in 55watt

I think with the new 4.0 that is about to come out, the better chrome they are going to use should be more of a match for 55W, but I will still personally not take that chance when I get mine, as you are still upping the temperatures by a lot in that little projector. 35W is enough for me. Puts out a good amount of light. And the 4.0's output should be improved even more by the new chrome.
It is better to be safe than sorry. But me personally, I'm going to take Matt's word for it. Completely new solenoids mean Matt was comfortable spending money on the redo. If I were making that investment, I'd make sure they worked properly. However, of course, there are always other factors involved.

 

Ugh... I can't make up my mind on which to get now. I like the way the H1 looks compared to the D2S but I want to be able to get things done in a day and not have to worry about taking a lot of time (something that I lack at the moment) because of having to make things work.

 

If it makes you feel better, my mh1 fits fine....it is definitely smaller than the bulb holde but the retaining washer and nut along with the little wire bulb holder thing makes it plenty tight. Tight enough to not be able to move it when its cinched down.

 

That does make me feel better. I think i'm gonna wait for this updated kit to come out and then get them. I'm so ready to not be so jealous of these Audi's and Mercedes I drive every night.

 

So what we've gathered is that both MD2S and MH1 will fit fine in the Fit with no extra modifications needed and the MH1 is better overall, with v4.0 having better solenoids. Sometime down the line though, bulbs will need replacing, which one of the two lasts longer and is cheaper to replace?

If there is a consensus that we want MH1 over MD2S, I'll change this group buy.

 

I would take that the MH1 can fit with no problem with a grain of salt, as it really may not be the same ease of installation for everyone... Hey REESPEED, can you take a pic or two of the retro? From the front, and the back, just to show exactly how it fits in there?

Also, don't forget, the 4.0 will have better solenoids, but also better chrome in the bowls which will help with reliability, light spread, and maybe even brightness to a point.

As far as which one will last longer, it depends on the quality of each bulb. The MH1 only uses aftermarket bulbs, but the XB35 bulb that TRS offers is truly an OEM-like quality bulb. If you have XB35 in the MH1, and an OEM Philips bulb in the D2S, the OEM bulb may last a little longer, but they may also be neck and neck. I think bulb life should be very similar

 

Well, In order to do that Id have to take the bumper and lights off. I may have some pics on a thumb drive somewhere. I'll look and see but its really similiar in the way it connects to every h4 reflector.

Edit:

Below is a picture of the back of the mh1 projector with the hardware needed to fit into the fit headlight.

If you look at the left projector, you will see an h4 adapter plate, a locking nut, and the bulb holder.

How the projector is installed is (with the headlight open) stick the threads on the back of the projector through the bulb hole in the reflector. The you take the h4 adapter plate and put that on the threads (the plate is cupped/domed and the plate, when installed, should be domed not cupped when looking at the back of the headlight) then thread the locking nut on. This tightens the projector to the h4 plate making the projector pretty tight in the reflector. The you put the bulb holder (I do this upside down so the screw dont fall inside the projector) on and put the bulbs in. There are two bumps on the bulb base that should fit into two recessed holes on the mating surface. The put the bulbs retainer in (wire "U" looking thing) so that it tightens the bulbs up. You are done and ready to test

 

I know the process of how to install MH1 into a headlight. I'm saying that the threaded portion of the MH1 is smaller than that of the D2S. If the D2S fits in the fit light with no problem, then I don't see how the MH1 is a perfect fit for the Fit.

 

Oh, well, it's not a "perfect" fit per se. Its more that the mounting hardware is good enough to make it a snug fit. The h4 adapter plate is what keeps it from moving around. With the locking nut and the existing wire bulb holder, its plenty snug and fits fine.

 

Does anyone know how difficult it is to also install CCFL Halos? Would it require additional wiring/splicing or is it pretty much plug and play as well? I was hoping to have the halos work as DRLs or the parking lights selection so they can be on by themselves while the bulb is not. Is that possible, or does everything just turn on all at once only?

 

I'd say you want a little bit of play on the H4 adapter so that you can fix any rotational aiming issues. Once it's dead on to your liking, lock it down with the locking nut. The DS2 and H1 have the rubber washer that keeps them steady if there is too much play with the H4 adapter.

 

I think you are misinterpreting what I'm saying. I'm talking diameters here. The diameter of the bulb hole vs. the diameter of the threaded parts of both the MH1 and D2S (MH1 being smaller, and D2S being bigger)... Of course if the lock nut isn't tightened there's going to be "play"... The whole thing will be loose.

Btw, the whole purpose of the adapter plate is so there is no movement. It goes in one way and stays that way. If you have the adapter plate, you won't be adjusting anything as there is only one way it sits.

 

The diameter of the projector threads on the H1 vs the DS2 doesn't matter as both fit. When my DS2 was installed, there is still a gap and it'll still move. Both projectors have the H4 adapter which will help keep it centered and aligned. The H1 projector just has a bigger adapter like in the picture that Reespeed posted but what isn't shown is the rubber gasket. Together with the gasket, H4 adapter and the locking nut, they stay on snug regardless of the diameter of the projector thread that goes through the H4 bulb hole.

I went with D2S because I had 85122+ bulbs already and wanted to continue to use other D2S bulbs eventually. I can take more pictures tomorrow or in a few days from the front and back when I'm swapping out my headlamps for another set.