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-   -   oil help where is it going (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/general-fit-talk/25062-oil-help-where-going.html)

sonicsc1 05-08-2008 11:24 PM

oil help where is it going
 
:mad: well for the third oil change in a row i have to add oil car .is at 20,200 miles and 40% oil life and 4500 mile on the filter and oil.:confused: use moble one 5-20 full senthetic oil and i am below the oil mark on the dip stick.what gives no leaks i change my own oil and check every other week? and its a 07 manual sport thanks for the help:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Rob22315 05-09-2008 06:43 AM

If it's not going on the ground, then it's going out the tailpipe or into your cooling system. If your coolant level isn't mysteriously rising, then your engine is burning the oil. Now you need to figure out how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber. Could be a lot of reasons for that, the easiest to check is the PCV valve if there is one on these engines. Other possible causes - bad valve seals or piston rings.

A friend had a new civic that really went through oil. Got it replaced as a lemon. The dealer tore down the engine and found holes in the top of one of the pistons.

claymore 05-09-2008 01:20 PM

Yes there is a PCV valve and if you are truly worried enough to spend some money get a leak down test and that will check several components at one time. And if you had oil going into your water you would have known by now as only a major problem would cause that

mahout 05-09-2008 02:14 PM

Rob's got it right. After you check the PCV if there is one, do a compression test on all four cylinders. I suspect one or more doesn't pass. If they are OJK there is a connection somewhere passing oil.

sonicsc1 05-09-2008 07:00 PM

where is the pvc at and how do iremove to check

bluecivic107 05-09-2008 07:20 PM

COlor
 
If you are burning oil, look at you tail pipe.
If you see blue smoke, you're burning oil.

If not, check your radiator for choco milkshake like fluid. If yuu see that, do a compression test on all 4 cylinders...

Tell us your findings...

Raaaaaaaaaay. 05-09-2008 09:14 PM

Your car is still under warranty. Tell them the oil is going somewhere, and its not on your driveway.
Beware as if they dont find anything youll be paying a diag fee. I dont think you should because the oil is clearly going somewhere.

Does the car drive fine? Decent power, gas miles?

Ive noticed my Fit puffs some blue smoke. Its done it 2-3 times after sitting at idle for a while on a hot day.
Anytime I change my oil I fill the jug the new oil came in. Same amount as the sealed jug had.

cab0053 05-09-2008 09:43 PM

wasn't there a thread called "I hate my fit" about this? I searched for it, and could not find it. I recall that the poster's fit had disappearing oil and went to really crappy dealerships.

Rob22315 05-10-2008 05:54 AM


Originally Posted by cab0053 (Post 305468)
wasn't there a thread called "I hate my fit" about this? I searched for it, and could not find it. I recall that the poster's fit had disappearing oil and went to really crappy dealerships.

Here it is https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...highlight=hate

The resolution is on the 4th page of postings "It was determined that my Fit had scarred cylinder walls and a large amount of metalic debris found in the engine. A top end engine rebuild would have corrected the issue."

Every car manufacturer has lemons, just read the forums. I had a Hyundai Entourage replaced as a lemon for bad power steering. We're happy with the new one. Apparently, someone else bought the vehicle at auction because I got a call a couple of months later thanking me for servicing the lemon van. There's a system for lemons if you're patient. The dealers get three tries to fix it then you call the BBB unless its a safety issue.

claymore 05-10-2008 11:02 AM

Like I posted get a leak down test that will tell you what shape your engine is in and if there are problems it will tell you what section of the engine is causing the problems more precisely than a compression test alone. A leak down test is just more complete than a simple compression test.

sonicsc1 05-10-2008 01:36 PM

sounds like im f#$%^&*( i need my car to go to work everyday so they will try to screw me with some sort of charge since it takes over 4000 miles till i need to add oil . and tell me its my fault i hate the dealer good thing i have 100000 mile warrenty. could it be the v tech burning oil?????

ricohman 05-10-2008 04:05 PM

Lots of bad advice here.
A compression test reveals just that, cylinder pressure. This will tell you if the comp rings are good and if the valves are sealing.
A leak down reveals valve sealing/comp rings and has nothing to do with the oil control rings which do not operate like the comp rings.
Neither of these will cause oil to burn off in a new motor.
What you need to know is the state of the oil control rings, the valve seals and the crank case venting.
Unfortunately the first two need to be visually inspected.
It is normal for an engine to use some oil during break in. Some engines continue to use oil. One liter per 1500km is considered a normal amount in most engines.
Motors that are not broken in properly or switched to a full sythetic to soon will use oil. Some of these oil consumption problems will stop if switched back to a conventional oil.
When I first started as a mechanic back in 86' I was tasked (along with my journeyman mentor) with rebuilding every single stupid Fiero "iron duke" 4cyl. After this I came to one conclusion.
If my engine was using one liter between oil changes there is no way I would ever let anyone fix it.
And I would change oil every 5000km regardless of what any hour meter was telling me.

mahout 05-10-2008 04:21 PM

C'mon. Rings that aren't sealing will leak oil into the cylinder combustion chamber. And it does cause the exhaust to be 'blue'. It shows up best on coasting down. Make sure the dealer mechanic writes down the compression and leak down numbers ... just in case, on the RO.
But the advice you get about going to the dealer about your oil consumption is good. Even if your dealer says 'they all do that' or 'its ok during break-in' you need verification of your oil consumption just in case it gets worse. There are many reasons for rings not to seal well, including hard Chromium as GM discovered) as well as you driving very hard during the first 5 minutes after startup, but modern engines, especially Hondas, don't have oil consumption problems without cause. And switching to synthetic isn't one of them. Likewise changing oil by mileage (5000 for synthetic or 3000 for mineral oils) is very good advice no matter if the 'oil minder' says go farther.
Anytime the oil minder gets down to near zero change oil quickly regardless of miles.

sonicsc1 05-10-2008 04:23 PM

i did change to sythetic but at 10,000 mile mark so maybe my next change i will use regular oil ?? i am now at 20,000 and change and this is the second time in arow that this has happend last time i checked it because i was getting lower mpg and now i check it more often. maybe i will change to regular oil and see what happens on this change .do you guys think i should chang it now or ass more oil im at 4600 miles and 40% on the life?? i have been using mobile 5-20 full sythetic which does say is approved to be used by honda on the container .thanks for all your input guys

ricohman 05-10-2008 04:26 PM


Originally Posted by mahout (Post 305922)
C'mon. Rings that aren't sealing will leak oil into the cylinder combustion chamber. And it does cause the exhaust to be 'blue'. It shows up best on coasting down.
But the advice you get about going to the dealer about your oil consumption is good. Even if your dealer says 'they all do that' or 'its ok during break-in' you need verification of your oil consumption just in case it gets worse. There are many reasons for rings not to seal well, including hard Chromium as GM discovered) as well as you driving very hard during the first 5 minutes after startup, but modern engines, especially Hondas, don't have oil consumption problems without cause. And switching to synthetic isn't one of them. Likewise changing oil by mileage (5000 for synthetic or 3000 for mineral oils) is very good advice no matter if the 'oil minder' says go farther.
Anytime the oil minder gets down to near zero change oil quickly regardless of miles.

Only the oil control rings.

ricohman 05-10-2008 04:30 PM


Originally Posted by sonicsc1 (Post 305925)
i did change to sythetic but at 10,000 mile mark so maybe my next change i will use regular oil ??

The first thing you need to do is change the oil by volume.
That means the exact amount requierd with the filter. Lots of dealers use bulk oil and cannot tell you how much they put in.
Then you need to drive 5000km and check it as you go.
I would be willing to bet your engine is still wearing in (although more slowly than it would on convetional oil) and you won't be adding any.
How many miles are you going between oil changes?
Out of the last 10 or so motorcycles I've rebuilt nearly all of them took 15 000 km to wear in. And we tore 4 of these bikes down to inspect the barrels and pistons.
Stick with synthetic if you want. But I would not be driving 10k between changes.

sonicsc1 05-10-2008 04:46 PM

no change it every 5-7 thousand when the oil life is down to 20-30 % wow i would never drive that much on oil LOL

Raaaaaaaaaay. 05-10-2008 08:32 PM


Originally Posted by sonicsc1 (Post 305829)
sounds like im f#$%^&*( i need my car to go to work everyday so they will try to screw me with some sort of charge since it takes over 4000 miles till i need to add oil . and tell me its my fault i hate the dealer good thing i have 100000 mile warrenty. could it be the v tech burning oil?????

You should be able to get a loaner as this is not your problem.


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