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-   -   Ultra racing rear sway bar rear (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/general-sale-section/79116-ultra-racing-rear-sway-bar-rear.html)

GenzoX 07-31-2013 05:38 PM

Ultra racing rear sway bar rear
 
Ultra racing rear sway bar rear

I bought this to reduce body roll on my GE fit. Worked like a charm!! It's still like new the sticker can be taken off if seller doesn't want it. I sold my car and took this off before I did. This was the best thing that I could of done to improve handling. I also lowered the car but I didn't take the coils off. I need money for my new project car so price is Obo my number is 3523218037

List Date: 7/31/2013

For more info, click here to view the original listing: Ultra racing rear sway bar rear
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On Sale For: $100 + $20 Shipping


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http://classifieds.panjo.com/ga.aspx...ml&guid=ON

http://cdn.panjo.com/RrPwaGJ3Fd3h2.jpg

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michaels 08-09-2013 11:17 AM

I could be wrong but this looks like a rear strut bar not rear sway bar.

Good luck with the sale.

gold-civic 08-09-2013 01:27 PM

Yes, this is not a rear sway bar

fujisawa 08-09-2013 08:36 PM

How would a strut bar reduce body roll?

spike55_bmw 11-30-2013 11:24 PM

Watch the video at
to see how a strut bar works. This kid explains a lot of things about cars and physics.

13fit 11-30-2013 11:52 PM

Doesnt matter, this very bar is in my Fit right now!

spike55_bmw 12-01-2013 07:05 AM

After looking over the Ultra Race web offerings, I think I need help. With 14 different stiffening bars I'm lost on what is the most cost-effective application(s). Always thought front / rear sway bars would be sufficient (had a lowered '85 Volvo wagon with bars) and then change out shocks. I'm not auto-X the '11 FIT but would like it be a little more stable.

Wanderer. 12-01-2013 03:12 PM

If by "stable" you mean reduce body roll the only things that will help with that are sway bars, stiffer springs and harder sidewall tires. Do all that first before you consider any chassis bars. Is that what you mean?

spike55_bmw 12-01-2013 04:01 PM

That's what I meant: Less body roll with sway bars, lower / harder springs, and harder side wall tires.


Its just that GenzoX started this whole thing off by claiming improvements through the use of a rear strut / tower bar. Not really an Anti-sway bar as noted.


Anyway, got the message. Thx

13fit 12-01-2013 04:39 PM

Rear shock tower bar like above, rear sway bar, thicker-then-21mm front sway bar, and you are on your way to a much better handling car once you get ANY springs other then factory honda!

My dropzones seem to be one of the stiffest, and I doubt I will ever buy them again, since I drive in the city more often then highway.


Full coilovers and both sway bars will be the ultimate combo without going head over heels on stiffening braces and bars!!

spike55_bmw 12-01-2013 06:56 PM

The only semi-stupid thing I've done so far is to put 205/50-16 tires on the stock FIT Sport rims. You can feel it jiggle around because the rims are too narrow for the soft sidewall Conti DWS. But compared to the Dunlops, these were great in the hurricane rain we had. Waiting for a snow test.


Tanabe Medallion Touring axle back sounds pretty good. Not the typical brash / tinny sound on many. Only problem is that it makes the panel on the rear hatch buzz. Maybe a well placed business card will solve the problem.


Maybe 15" or 17" wheels in future, with the sway bars and new coilovers.


Thanks for advice

13fit 12-02-2013 12:42 AM

Read the sidewall of tire, find maximum PSI, and run 4-5 psi under it if you are not there already.

May make a difference. I run a bit less though, my tires are 51spi max, I run 41 psi usually, if I decide to check the tires. Im in wisconsin for another week, and each morning my tires are a different psi lol, so I drive the 30 miles to the nearest big city, and by that time the tires are warmed up and back at 41 psi

spike55_bmw 12-02-2013 06:43 AM

I'm running my tires (higher psi in front) +/- 30 psi. Prior to that I noticed wear was only occurring in middle ~70% of tread at ~35 psi. I have ~6,000 miles on them now (40 mile highway round trip to work) and if you are familiar with the Conti DWS, they have "DWS" stamped into the tread. It is still plainly visible at 6,000 miles. 205/50-16 might be too much "meat" for the weight of this car. Unfortunately, there is such a poor selection of tires in the 185/55-16 category, that it forces you to take a chance on something "off prescription". The DWS performed well in very heavy rain at 60+ mph but I really wished that it came in 185/55-16. Maybe the solution would be to go to a 15" / 17" wheel in 6"-7" width in order to get back the handling / mpg characteristics of the OEM setup. Everything can be improved.

Wanderer. 12-02-2013 10:22 AM

Yeah 6" is a little narrow for 205s, you'll have to bump up the pressure like you said on pretty much any street tire. 30psi is rather low if you're looking for performance out of that wheel/tire combo.

I think 205s are probably not "too much tire for the car" but rather too much tire for OEM wheels, which are heavy as it is. Get some 16x7 lightish wheels and both problems will be fixed.

If you want 15s and want to keep your speedo accurate you're going to be limited on tire selection. 195/60 options are pedestrian, but there are a few decent tires available in 205/55. My finger is on the Cyber Monday trigger right now for 15x6.5 and 205/55 pending approval from my boss :p

:offtopic:


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