Originally Posted by De36 (Post 1217485)

I have been researching a new track day build and ended up with an 2003 Acura RSX Type-S for $3500 with 168,000 miles, the car needs TLC.

RSX Type-S (DC5 chassis 2002-2006) OEM run down:

Issue 1: DC5 has inherent flaws which cause issues on track, if you're a novice driver this shouldn't be a huge issue for the first few years.


Build Plan:
Fix:
-Stop Rust Spots
-Por 15 engine, engine bay, under car...
-Window Regulator
-Exterior trim falling off

Weight Loss:
-Corbeau Seats
-Strip interior
-Remove AC and heater system
-Remove Sunroof
-Remove cruise control
-And other odds and ends under hood

Corbeaus? Neither light nor 'nice.'


Rebuild Engine:
-New timing chain (they stretch on these cars)
-All new gaskets and fluids
-New Piston rings and rod bearings
-ARP Head Studs
-Skunk2 High Compression valves
-Blox Cams
-BWR Valve Springs
-Oil pump mod (high flow)
-RBC manifold (high flow manifold)
-Blox Throttle body
-Buddy Club Underdrive pulley set with AC delete
-Port and Polish Head
-Password JDM Thermal Intake Gasket
-Injen CAI
-DC Race Header
-Greddy Cat back
-Hondata Reflash
-Fidanza 8lbs Flywheel
-Exedy Clutch
-Energy Suspension Poly Motor Mounts
-New syncros in transmission

Blox Cams/Skunk2 Valves/BWR Valve Springs; very low quality parts, nothing I'd trust in my engine. Instead of wasting money on power mods, put in a higher final drive, keep that car up in the rev range at all times. Don't depend on a powerful K20, depend on a powerful driver behind the wheel.


Suspension:
-Hawk HPS Pads
-EBC Rotors
-D2 Coilovers
-BC Extended ball joints
-Gt Strut Tower Brace
-Eibach Sway Bars (non adjustable)
-Koing Feathers (just to get the car rolling)
-Falken Azenis RT-615K

D2 are junk. Spring rates are all wrong for the DC5/EP3, took me an eternity even to find them.

HPS are 'aggressive street' pads, by that, slightly more aggressive than OEM.

A strut tower brace is just wasted money, at least initially, as are the sway bars. Use those as tuning tools once you've established what kind of handling traits you're even looking for.

RT-615K are outdated/junk tyres. They also aren't even the cheapest extreme summer tyre.

Originally Posted by 13fit (Post 1217583)

I second avoiding blox and skunk2. Their quality control is questionable.

Originally Posted by Wanderer. (Post 1217611)

Just replace the timing chain and fix the exhaust leak. Replace radiator hoses and radiator cap. Check for blown bushings and blown shocks, replace as needed. Change pads and rotors, brake fluid. Buy helmet and decent tires. Go HPDE. Decide where to go from there.

EDIT: clutch if it needs it.

Originally Posted by 13fit (Post 1217613)

Ive had several issues with a combo of skunk2 springs and their struts. The struts liked to fail with less then a few years on them, even with their own designed lowering springs.

Intake manifolds had a common issue of the water outlet from the head and the brake booster vacuum nipple coming off.

This stuff is from the D and B series setups. May not effect K setups.


I have seen a set of Skunk2 pro2 cams in a buddies B series recently, and they were pretty torn up in appearance (doing a valve adjustment at time)
They grabbed copper from the penny I dragged across. Its a sign that there are grooves worn in them.


PLEASE research your parts choices. If no one posted negativity or issues, by all means keep your list. But you said you want to do everything ONCE. Why bother with the cheap stuff? Kelford has you on the cams!!

Originally Posted by Wanderer. (Post 1217624)

So is this a dedicated track car?

I wouldn't run those Konig Feathers on track, this is coming from someone who has Konigs. If you want some knockoffs to run on track stick to slipstreams or their konig counterpart, I don't trust the small spoke knockoffs.

Hawk HPS are no good for track. Get HP+ at least. I faded HPS with less than half the power your K has.

Corbeaus are good for budget seats. If you get fixed back seats budget for a roll bar at least.

All the motor shit is whatever. I'd rather have a solid reliable OEM motor with a few bolt ons and KPro that I can beat on mercilessly than all that stuff unless I'm competing. But that's me and this is your build.

What is the goal of this car? I mean it's your car and I'm always happy to see track builds but just looking at your parts list I'm confused about the ultimate goal.

Originally Posted by De36 (Post 1217766)

Yes, it is a dedicated track day car.

LOL. You are the first person to ask what the goal is. I was laughing at people "revising" my list without even asking the most basic question. That's why I took the build down from this thread and am not posting anymore updates.

The goal is to have a reliable track-day car (this isn't my first build or my first time racing, haha!). I can't put this car on the track in the condition it's in. It doesn't have to do with an "all motor setup" or hp, it needs a rebuild.

I would have loved to throw some RPF1 and Coil-overs at it and call it a day.

Originally Posted by TPColgett (Post 1217783)

Car has some handling quirks, but being FWD and a modern (heavy) Honda no real surprise. He found as far as suspension that Koni yellow + Ground Control sleeves really is unbeatable. We've also been talking a lot about the products from K-Tuned, they make a killer header and a nice "oval" exhaust that helps with clearance. Check em out :RSX Header

Hopefully you're still willing to share some of your build with us!

Originally Posted by De36 (Post 1217795)

If it was a street car I would run Koni Yellows, but having camber and preload is a must, that's why I'm going with coilovers.