^ it's on the pepboys website too...

 

thanks, good to know. i had to replace mine in a hurry last time since it died one morning when i was leaving for work. had to borrow a friend's car to find the replacement. i ended up making him late for work too!

 

Anyone running the 51R with an aftermarket intake?

 

by 51R you are refering to the factory size battery right? If so im running a factory honda battery and a Weapon-R short ram intake. got pics...pm me if you want me to send them to you it just wont let me post them...keeps telling me their "too big" >_<

 

The factory battery is a 151r. 51r is a larger aftermarket battery many (including myself) have installed as a replacement.

 

I just replaced my OEM battery last Monday and went with another OEM but here's a DIY post from Big Mike (Perrenoud FIt) you might find useful about a 51-4 battery replacement on a FIT with a CAI setup:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ml#post1013823

 

Mine died for the first time in 5 years today, lol.

I'm pretty proud of it lasting that long because I do almost all in town driving. Plus I sit in my car at lunch almost every day sometimes with the battery on but car off. So it's held up pretty well!

Now I debate whether the $20 installation price is worth it or just handle it on my own...I may just play the girl card and have it done so I don't have to bother! It needs to go in for a bumper repair anyways!

 

I'm on my 62nd month on the OEM battery but I already have an itsybitsy light weight battery to go in it if it every starts to fade away.... I got used to using low amperage maintenance chargers years ago when I owned numerous cars motorcycles, boats and golf carts...If you don't have a way to charge your battery in the car, get an extra battery and rotate them charging the one not in the car and change them out every couple of weeks..

 

Car purchased certified used in November 2010. Brought car to Honda dealership on 6/24/11 for service due to car dying twice that day. Upon arrival car died and had to be jumped to service. Alternator was replaced as well as the battery that day.
Then in august car died on the road while driving twice and was taken in for services at Honda dealership and immobilizer was stated to be the problem then replaced on 8/24/11.
Arrive at Honda dealership 9/6/11 for tire service and car battery issues stated but technician resolved by adjusting battery connections.
On 9/7/11 Car dies on Bruckner Blvd in the Bronx, NY while coming off the FDR and hazard lights would not come on. NYC DOT workers had to manually put car in neutral so it could be moved to side of road. Car was towed to Bronx Honda and battery replaced again. Dealership stated car issues should be resolved but heard stranger rattling sounds from car while backing out the same day it was picked up.
Filed report on NHTSA website as everyone should about these issue with the FIT so Honda can forced to remedy the issue. I contacted American Honda about the issue but of course they are dragging their feet.

 

^^^sounds to me like you got a car with straight up electrical system problems. i hope ur not paying for all these dealer stops. they tend to "band-aid" the issue and milk all they can from you. I would suggest u talk to someone with electrical diagnostic tools. check your voltage at thr battery with the car on(should be about 12-14) If thats not in spes trace it back and find where its dropping current. that way ur not being led around by the dealer while u have non car

 

Dead battery in new 2012 Fit base AT.

Brought the new 2012 Fit base AT home last Thursday evening from the dealership. Started out with 2 miles on it. Now has somewhat in excess of 110 miles on it. Drove it last night about 12 miles to dinner. 11 miles to grocery store. Then 1 mile to home. Had the hatch open to unload groceries. Lights were on for all driving and rear-window defogger for the 11 mile trip from dinner. Had the radio on for all. Had the blower on high during driving to keep the windshield clear. We can't see that any interior light was left on.

This afternoon, when we went to drive the car for the first time today, remote wouldn't unlock the car. Manually unlocked the car. Try to start the car--nada. Read the manual--says to take both cables off the battery to charge it. Right. Have to find a 10 mm socket. Okay, did that and connected my trusty battery charger. We'll hook things back up and see how things are in the morning. My husband is supposed to use this new car to meet his son at the Honda dealership tomorrow afternoon to drop off our 2000 Accord SE (which has NEVER had such a problem in the 12 years we've owned it).

We got the 2012 Fit to be reliable transportation, but what I'm reading about the limited battery reserve doesn't make me happy. I'm really not happy when I read that I couldn't even put the car into neutral and push it out of the garage if that became necessary.

So, who has a link to a trickle charger? Do I really have to disconnect both battery cables to charge the battery? Any other helpful hints?

 

The emote is powered by its own clock battery in the remote.
Charging the car won't help unless your Fit would not crank up when the ignition key is turned on as you stated. thats a matter for your dealer to solve by checking for current drain from the battery by using a VOM or checking the tension on the alternator when the ignition is off.. The trickle charger is not a good solution..
PS ypur dealer was supposed to verify the remotes had good batteries.
And if you want a battery charger WallyWorld has pretty good ones under $50. While you're at it get an OBDII reader as well. Should be the basic item in car owners tool box. And it could be a bad battery from Yuasa, as they have had their share. You might have a battery load test performed by one of the autoparts places. good luck.

 

Sounds like a bad dealer prep inspection or a case of bad battery. As soon as you ae able to start the car, I'd take it back to them and let the dealer mess with it. Yes, very annoying but I'd just jump-start the car and drive it straight to the dealer. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the replies.

Remotes are okay. The remote wouldn't unlock the car because the car battery was dead.

Jumped the car today and it started readily. By the time we drove it 15 miles to the dealership, everything tested good--the battery, the charging system, and current drain when asleep. Let's hope that everything will just be normal after this.

Thanks also for the suggestions about a new batter charger and the OBDII reader.

Best of everything to all on the thread!

 

Everything is fine, so far, with the battery. We drove it to breakfast, then to the Honda dealership to pick up the 2000 Accord from service. I did notice some impact on acceleration when driving with more than 800 pounds of people (4 adults) in the car :-)

 

Sounds like you're good to go then. Bad battery. Thanks for the update. Enjoy your new ride!

 

Subie,

It is the same battery. We're still perplexed by why it died in the first place.

 

Weird... Battery connections tight, no movement? Well good luck.

 

A lot of BS, mostly from Honda here: Typically (being involved with a high millage 88 CRX from new to 225,000 miles and a 07 Fit with currently 15,000 miles) the cheap batteries that Honda uses don't last more than 3 years (2 to 3 seems norm). My wife's FIT died in traffic on a steep uphill in rush hour. The engine, with no warning sign just stopped. (VERY DANGEROUS!) It jumped started and ran for 5 minutes but wouldn't start later and wouldn't take a charge. Honda dealer said all is OK on car and battery diagnostic. Same scenario as Sybil with the battery (good enough). I just went straight away and bought a new, slightly taller one from elsewhere. On Guam you modify to make something work, otherwise you'll be sitting a long time. A new diagnostic indicates everything is fine. For six months there have been 0 problems. Some taller batteries with the a similar footprint can fit the FIT. Adapting the battery hold down is easy. I have been using Yellow Top Optima's since they came out. The Optima Yellow tops that I use in my other vehicles have typically lasted 7 years (pull them for boat duty, use them to run all kinds of equipment, reinstall them and they are good to go. Optima makes a battery that will fit. More Power/charges with 2/3 the current (may increase fuel economy because they charge easier? I don't no.) More cost = reliability,safety and piece of mind. They respond very well to SOLAR charging also. I have a not printable name for YUASA and I wouldn't buy one. When they die they get replaced with something more reliable.

 

Donnegal, a car that dead HAD to have something wrong. I've left interior lights on in my Fit overnight without killing the battery, so that by itself should not have done it. I'm thinking perhaps a battery terminal was corroded or not making good contact? And when you futzed with them you corrected the issue. It had to be something major like that, to completely kill the juice to the car.

Good luck with your Fit. They're great cars, and a better long term value than the hybrid if you ask me. I still have the original battery in my '08, so there is not a default of badness about the batteries. Also most folks here want to pound out tunes and so on, adding lots of electrical doodads to their cars, and the stock battery does not have much reserve capacity. So you're going to hear battery complaints that have nothing to do with how long it lasts. Grains of salt and all that.