A/C not working kinda...
#1
A/C not working kinda...
Ok, I have searched this forum for a similar problem and hoping for a solution but I couldn't find one. Sorry if this has been posted before.
I have an 07 Fit Sport. When the weather finally got nicer, I started to try to use the A/C again. But it never got cold. The blower is moving air just fine, the A/C light comes on when I push the button in. But just no cold air.
At first, I thought that I was out of freon ( or whatever they call it now ) but one day out of know where the A/C worked. It worked for about 40 minutes of a 1.5 hour drive. And when it worked it worked perfectly. So in my head at least I have ruled out a leak.
Then I thought loose belt, but I just had the alternator replaced with a new belt and it has been properly tensioned ( as far as I know ) and still no cold air.
When the A/C did work I would press the button and you could feel the compressor kick on. The car would actually lose a bit of power. When I push the button now that doesn't happen. Would the compressor kick on if there is no freon?
Anyway, i'm completely out of ideas. Any help on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
TL;DNR: A/C won't turn on. I'm pretty sure I've ruled out a leak in the freon and the belt shouldn't be slipping.
I have an 07 Fit Sport. When the weather finally got nicer, I started to try to use the A/C again. But it never got cold. The blower is moving air just fine, the A/C light comes on when I push the button in. But just no cold air.
At first, I thought that I was out of freon ( or whatever they call it now ) but one day out of know where the A/C worked. It worked for about 40 minutes of a 1.5 hour drive. And when it worked it worked perfectly. So in my head at least I have ruled out a leak.
Then I thought loose belt, but I just had the alternator replaced with a new belt and it has been properly tensioned ( as far as I know ) and still no cold air.
When the A/C did work I would press the button and you could feel the compressor kick on. The car would actually lose a bit of power. When I push the button now that doesn't happen. Would the compressor kick on if there is no freon?
Anyway, i'm completely out of ideas. Any help on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
TL;DNR: A/C won't turn on. I'm pretty sure I've ruled out a leak in the freon and the belt shouldn't be slipping.
#2
If you bought the extended 8 year/100000 mile warranty you might still be able to have it fixed under warranty if there is a Honda problem. If not, I'm sure the dealership wouldn't mind taking more of your money. Have you tried taking the Fit to an air conditioning place? It seems like where I live there is an air conditioning shop every two blocks.
#3
Since it seems to be working properly when the compressor cycles on, I think I would also suspect that there is adequate refrigerant in the system (although of course it's not entirely conclusive, at least not for me). It sounds to me as though the problem is rather that the car isn't turning on the compressor, or its electromagnetic clutch (that connects the compressor to the pulley when it's on) isn't working properly. It should be comparatively easy to verify the clutch's operation by observing if it is energized but not engaging.
If, on the other hand, the clutch is not being energized, perhaps there's some sensor in the A/C system that's broken or disconnected or something and causing the computer to not want to turn on the compressor. (There may also be a relay in the clutch circuit; you'd have to check a circuit diagram for that.)
At any rate, a decent A/C shop or dealer should be able to troubleshoot fairly easily, I'd think. Make sure you mention to them that the compressor doesn't seem to be turning on at all in general, but that the system cooled the one time it did turn on.
If, on the other hand, the clutch is not being energized, perhaps there's some sensor in the A/C system that's broken or disconnected or something and causing the computer to not want to turn on the compressor. (There may also be a relay in the clutch circuit; you'd have to check a circuit diagram for that.)
At any rate, a decent A/C shop or dealer should be able to troubleshoot fairly easily, I'd think. Make sure you mention to them that the compressor doesn't seem to be turning on at all in general, but that the system cooled the one time it did turn on.
#7
@Dwils I bought the car used and it has over 100k miles, but thank you.
@DrewE I just moved to a new area, so I was hoping to at least know what was wrong with the car before I took it to an unfamiliar mechanic. But I may be out of options.
@Hootie I haven't checked relays. That will be my next move.
@previc93 I haven't checked that the compressor clutch is engaging because I don't know what to look for.
@ikutoisahobo I had that same thought initially which is why I didn't think it was a low freon problem. I know the compressor isn't kicking on because the car doesn't stagger when I turn on the A/C button
@DrewE I just moved to a new area, so I was hoping to at least know what was wrong with the car before I took it to an unfamiliar mechanic. But I may be out of options.
@Hootie I haven't checked relays. That will be my next move.
@previc93 I haven't checked that the compressor clutch is engaging because I don't know what to look for.
@ikutoisahobo I had that same thought initially which is why I didn't think it was a low freon problem. I know the compressor isn't kicking on because the car doesn't stagger when I turn on the A/C button
#8
Just throwing this out there:
Nobody has mentioned the air-mix doors inside the heater unit. Or, the coolant control valve.
In order to get really cold air from the A/C, the heater has to be cold (no warm coolant flowing through it). Haven't looked it up specifically on the Fit, but every Honda I've owned for the past 25 years has mixture doors (either controlled by a cable or servo motor) that blend hot & cold air (for when you want to clear the windows in humid conditions, as an example).
Additionally, when the TEMP control knob is turned all the way to COLD setting, the coolant valve to the heater is supposed to be turned off. If it isn't, you will not get the coldest A/C. The valve is usually on the firewall, in the engine compartment. (Hard to see on the Fit, I know)
++++++++++++++
That said, a characteristic of a SLIGHTLY low Freon charge is poor cooling around town, but adequate cooling on the highway.
If you don't know your way around A/C systems, take it to a shop to be checked out. Around here, several establishments are running A/C checkout "specials" for $60 - $90 USD.
Nobody has mentioned the air-mix doors inside the heater unit. Or, the coolant control valve.
In order to get really cold air from the A/C, the heater has to be cold (no warm coolant flowing through it). Haven't looked it up specifically on the Fit, but every Honda I've owned for the past 25 years has mixture doors (either controlled by a cable or servo motor) that blend hot & cold air (for when you want to clear the windows in humid conditions, as an example).
Additionally, when the TEMP control knob is turned all the way to COLD setting, the coolant valve to the heater is supposed to be turned off. If it isn't, you will not get the coldest A/C. The valve is usually on the firewall, in the engine compartment. (Hard to see on the Fit, I know)
++++++++++++++
That said, a characteristic of a SLIGHTLY low Freon charge is poor cooling around town, but adequate cooling on the highway.
If you don't know your way around A/C systems, take it to a shop to be checked out. Around here, several establishments are running A/C checkout "specials" for $60 - $90 USD.
#9
Just throwing this out there:
Nobody has mentioned the air-mix doors inside the heater unit. Or, the coolant control valve.
In order to get really cold air from the A/C, the heater has to be cold (no warm coolant flowing through it). Haven't looked it up specifically on the Fit, but every Honda I've owned for the past 25 years has mixture doors (either controlled by a cable or servo motor) that blend hot & cold air (for when you want to clear the windows in humid conditions, as an example).
Additionally, when the TEMP control knob is turned all the way to COLD setting, the coolant valve to the heater is supposed to be turned off. If it isn't, you will not get the coldest A/C. The valve is usually on the firewall, in the engine compartment. (Hard to see on the Fit, I know)
++++++++++++++
That said, a characteristic of a SLIGHTLY low Freon charge is poor cooling around town, but adequate cooling on the highway.
If you don't know your way around A/C systems, take it to a shop to be checked out. Around here, several establishments are running A/C checkout "specials" for $60 - $90 USD.
Nobody has mentioned the air-mix doors inside the heater unit. Or, the coolant control valve.
In order to get really cold air from the A/C, the heater has to be cold (no warm coolant flowing through it). Haven't looked it up specifically on the Fit, but every Honda I've owned for the past 25 years has mixture doors (either controlled by a cable or servo motor) that blend hot & cold air (for when you want to clear the windows in humid conditions, as an example).
Additionally, when the TEMP control knob is turned all the way to COLD setting, the coolant valve to the heater is supposed to be turned off. If it isn't, you will not get the coldest A/C. The valve is usually on the firewall, in the engine compartment. (Hard to see on the Fit, I know)
++++++++++++++
That said, a characteristic of a SLIGHTLY low Freon charge is poor cooling around town, but adequate cooling on the highway.
If you don't know your way around A/C systems, take it to a shop to be checked out. Around here, several establishments are running A/C checkout "specials" for $60 - $90 USD.
Op sounds like you aren't familiar with the ac system of a car so I would just take it to a shop....
#10
Idk if your situation is exactly like mine but I too had issues with a/c (compressor turned on but no cold air or it stayed cold for a while then stopped after 20mins). Got my car serviced for compressor "clutch and coil" and now its working like brand new.. only downside is cost ($$). But thats just my experience.
#11
Please refer to this post for images and diagrams!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...voltmeter.html
First verify that the over temp switch, pressure, main a/c and blower switches are not open
Read entire procedure:
Remove glove box under tray to expose ECU
turn ignition ON
push on the a/c switch (or select defrost) on the instrument panel
Turn blower to low
Get high impedance voltmeter, turn to volts DC scale
Connect black probe to the good ground
Touch (connector E, cavity 28) of ecu with red probe
Read the voltage and report!!!
A connector is shown E is similar
Turn igntion and a/c off
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...voltmeter.html
First verify that the over temp switch, pressure, main a/c and blower switches are not open
Read entire procedure:
Remove glove box under tray to expose ECU
turn ignition ON
push on the a/c switch (or select defrost) on the instrument panel
Turn blower to low
Get high impedance voltmeter, turn to volts DC scale
Connect black probe to the good ground
Touch (connector E, cavity 28) of ecu with red probe
Read the voltage and report!!!
A connector is shown E is similar
Turn igntion and a/c off
Last edited by doctor J; 07-10-2014 at 03:51 PM.
#14
At what RPMs did the shop measure the A/C pressures??
On my car the low side pressure looks perfect on idle (40-45 psi ambient 82 F, Fan on 4th speed) but goes down to 20 PSI at 1500 rpm (the engine speed per Mitchel manual) which is off the chart!
I am getting the manifold set to check low and high side pressures to eliminate any other causes
At best the system on my car lost some charge over 7 years (acceptable leak rate is 1 oz per year and fit holds only 14 oz)
On my car the low side pressure looks perfect on idle (40-45 psi ambient 82 F, Fan on 4th speed) but goes down to 20 PSI at 1500 rpm (the engine speed per Mitchel manual) which is off the chart!
I am getting the manifold set to check low and high side pressures to eliminate any other causes
At best the system on my car lost some charge over 7 years (acceptable leak rate is 1 oz per year and fit holds only 14 oz)
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