
02-22-2008, 01:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 560
Rep Power: 320
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Dave, if "handling" means taking more g-forces with turns, your more then welcome to use my car's g-meter (a.k.a my navi) to test out how much more g's the car is able to take with and without the strut bar. BUT, if "handling" is judge by response and body roll, I do not think there a meter or gauge to judge that (or at least with my knowledge).
Quote:
Originally Posted by manxman
Wow!
New guys DO read old threads. Nice to hear from someone with some tech. background for a change. Since I started this thread, I have had no interest at all in any Aspec products, just based on the negative value of this strut bar.
But, going back to my doubts about the effectiveness of ANY strut bar, if there actually were enough movement of the strut towers to REQUIRE a brace, 1. there would be one there already from the factory, and 2. needing one but not having one, you would see cracked metal and chipped paint from the tops of the struts moving around on top of the painted "tin can" towers. I don't believe that they move. If I am right, it won't matter what material you use for a more rigid bar, it will just sit there, in the way of your master cylinder reservoir.
I still believe that everyone saying how much improvement they have in handling with any brand of front strut bar, merely has a really good imagination, and should have spent their money on something that really works instead.
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Entertainment- Pioneer Avic-D3
Power- Blitz Throttle Controller (Thanks Dave), SHG_Mike inspired Airbox mod, T1R V2 muffler
Handling- Progress RearSway Bar w/Panducky bolts, T1r lower arm and rear strut bar, SPC Camber Kit, Falken Ziex ZE-912 w/ LS Meshes
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-j...ake-build.html
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