^Z awesome work so far. If the panels are being stubborn popping out, you can heat them with a hair dryer to make the plastic more pliable and less prone to breaking. Wish i could be on air again.

Alpina, im glad you are happy with the result of the bulbs. I wonder if there is a version that works in HID projectors, then i can have the lower power consumption and the wider output beam from the projectors.

I agree the LS460R projectors are a lot of work, but it is one of my favourite upgrades on the fit(and i like have the halo eyes lol). Im not looking forward to redoing them on my new headlights though....

But opening the headlights is not very hard, it is much easier than a lot of things you have already done to your fit.


Oh and i support your decision to get the Vleds bulbs haha. Get the regular bulbs in the rear too. These will really refine the look of your fit.

 

So im trying to decide what i should do about my new headlights. Right now they need to be polished, clear wrapped, painted, then retrofitted. The only thing is i have to keep the retrofit on my fit at least until i get the jdm conversion started because i dont have any other sets of headlights.

The other problem is that i cant actually do the retrofit unless the headlights are mounted to the car, because i need to be able to align them with the JB weld, which means id have to wait until the conversion is done.

The problem is, i might not have enough time at the shop in vancouver to get the retrofit done before i have to drive all the way back here. I suppose ill have to live with the stock jdm headlights until spring.... Hard to give up the retrofit for even a few months lol. I guess i could do it in the cold too...

 

Thanks! And yea, I should have used heat but I didn't break any panels so it's cool. Some portions aren't flush anymore what with the wiring being a good 1/2" thick lol.

Just run without and do LED's like Howard until you can retrofit them

 

Well see. Im gunna ask the guy if i can use his garage for a couple days once the conversion is done.

Heres my progress thread on the front conversion if any of you are interested.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...onversion.html

 

Not trying to be a party pooper, it is nice to be able to see more clearly. But, I've never been too concerned with the bright lights coming at me. Mostly, because they're angled away. The biggest problem I have with super bright lights is the guy that's always behind me... blinding me through the rear view mirror and the side mirrors. To me, that's pretty dangerous. It's not always the oncoming traffic you're affecting. Having super bright lights glaring in the mirrors affects the drivers night vision and creates larger "bright" blind spots while driving.

Just my $.02, I'm sure I'm not the only one who has experienced this.

 

I think thats more an issue of how theyre aimed vs how bright they are.

 

Hello nogo,

as Connor point out, it is the angle that you need to adjust to prevent this.
There is the video on youtube that is great for adjusting the headlight:


When I tried my new LED headlight last night,
I was thinking... wow this new LED headlight of mine is so bright, I now want to make sure I angled it correctly and do not blinding either oncoming traffic,
or blinding car that is in front of me.

so I decide to check my headlight adjustment.

First, my car is lowered, so by default, my headlight cut off is already lower than stock car.
as you can see from the picture below, the bright area is below the cut off,
and above the cutoff, that area is dead spot/ not bright/blinding.

The stock Honda manual that I have is for the JDM/Euro market where they have the adjustable headlight height that can be adjusted from inside the cockpit... but our USDM market do not have this...
that is why on the JDM Honda service manual,
the procedure to adjust the light height was to park the car 25feet/7.5meters from a wall,
then the cut off height must be AT THE SAME HEIGHT as the light bulb,
which in my case is 72.5 centimeters from the ground. (pardon me, I am still use to metrics )

What I found with my headlight (before I adjust), I am actually much LOWER than that like almost 5cm/2inch lower so my low beam is actually not high enough, must be due to the way I lower my car (front and rear suspension lowering ratio), and despite this handicapped,
I was still able to see further down the road last night vs. the old Halogen...,
that show how much improvement this IPF LED bulb is compare to my old PIAA Halogen, which in it self an improvement over the stock halogen

but of course I want to optimize my new LED headlight so I decide to adjust,
following the youtube video.

If you see the picture (below) again, you will see the cut off had lower line on the left and higher line on the right.
What you want to measure is the TOP part of the LOWER cut off line on the left because
that is where the oncoming traffic is.

According to this youtube video, you need to have the cut off line about 2 inch lower than your light bulb height at 25 feet/7.5meters distance to the wall. This ensure that the beam is angled DOWNWARD...
I also ensure that I have myself, and my whole family in the car because someone sitting at the back seat will make the car and thus the light beam angled upward,
this way, I am making sure if I drive with full load, the car will still not blinding people. (this is why the JDM Fit can afford to start at the same height as the light because if you put passenger on the back, you can adjust the beam back to zero level with the adjustment knob, and we don't have this).
so
I adjusted the lower line cut off to a height of around 67cm while my light bulb is about 72.5cm height from the ground (just like in youtube video about 2 inch below the height of the bulb)

Now,
the higher cut line is about 10cm higher or 82.5cm,
but this higher cut line only start inside of the car left body so it won't even shine light pass a car trunk infront of my car, even if it did a bit on the right side to the right door rear view mirror of the car in front of me, (which you see tapered down again at the most right end of the light beam), at 82.5cm it is still below most car door rear view mirror
and for sure far below the center (inside) rear view mirror.
so in summary, by looking at the picture below, you will see that my light beam pattern
will not blind the left door rear view mirror of the car in front of me,
it will not blind the center interior rear view mirror of the car in front or me,
and it will not blind MOST car right door rear view mirror in front of me...
I say MOST for the right door rear view mirror and if you read further below you will understand why...

Below is the picture that I just take,
notice the blue tape is what I use to mark the right point at the wall,
the lower line was right at the top of the lower blue marker when I adjust, the reason why it is higher now because I had move back my car forward so I can close the garage door, so the distance is not the 25feet distance anymore.

Now, why most of the "BRIGHT LIGHT" that you see on the road blind your rear view mirror,
that is because those LED/HID bulb kit are not able to provide the cut off like the way this IPF LED bulb kit or a proper HID Projector retrofit could.
so their light pattern is all over the place
if you see my cut off on the picture below, the cutoff is like straight line
which is why this IPF LED bulb kit is so different than others product out there.

So, I think, unless the car infront of me is a superlow Hypercar like koenigsegg or pagani,
then my LED light won't blind their RIGHT door rear view mirror
but then again every normal car on the road even with regular halogen light will blind the koenigsegg or pagani RIGHT door rear view mirror, so it is not just me

Watch the youtube video above, and you will understand easier since I know my English kinda suck hahaha




below is the screen shoot from JDM Honda Service manual on how to adjust the beam, and basically my adjustment is actually around 2 inch lower than what is recommended here, plus my car is lowered so I know for sure my IPF LED H4 headlight conversion is SAFE and do NOT blind people in front of me, well again except those lucky 1% most richest folks who choose to drive their Pagani or Koenigsegg at night in front of my
little Honda Fit , and I am sure they are happy to have a spot light shining on them, hey they drive a hypercar hahaha

 

I want as much cold air flow through the radiator and engine bay,
I had ordered JDP Vented CF Hood,
while waiting for it, I am going to optimized the grill...
too much blocked honeycomb on the grill, so dremel come to the rescue:

I started Project Air Flow today, full DIY coming soon:






Had make rough drill an all the available space, just finished with the smaller dremel grinding stone on one hole... many still need attention:

 

Installed 15mm rear spacers. Making it essentially a 17x7 +25. Sits much nicer, probably should have went with a 20mm spacer, but oh well.

 

Any pics? Thats a pretty low offset, whats your offset in the front?

 

The fronts have no spacers, so 17x7 +40. 205/45 tire all around.



Before at a +40



After with the 15mm spacer (+25)

 

Finished my air install a couple hours ago with the help of the bros. Will be hanging with them later today to do a shoot in Little Tokyo after an alignment haha.

 

Project Air Flow FULL update on the link below:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...nted-hood.html



Move aside PIAA horns, you can NOT be on the way of Project Air Flow




Uh... after Honda Fit picking it's nose and kicking RS emblem Far to the "ALT RIGHT SIDE",
Honda Fit can inhale much better now

 

The rears look really good! I am thinking about running 15x7 +35 all around and am just concerned about the fronts rubbing.

 

Alignment took way to long to get done that I wasn't able to do a photoshoot in Little Tokyo with the bros but I snapped a few pics at home.

A big milestone in the goals I have for the car.

 

How low are you going? As I mentioned before my 15x8 +35s are good. If I were slammed I may need to do a fender pull for the front, but not the rear.

 

Yeah depends on the ride height. I would only go a few more MM outward, bc of how low my front end is. I have no wheel gap at all in front and would like to raise it up a little.

 

I think your ride height looks great. You notice any rubbing now with the spacers??

 

I havent noticed any yet.

The front rubs the fender liner when hitting bumps with the wheels turned, thats what makes me what to raise up the front maybe .25"-.5"

 

Installed a convex mirror!

I'll be installing some OEM wheels from another car next