2nd Generation (GE 08-present)The New Fit... Generation specific talk and questions here.
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man the rear were annoying.... whats the point of the sticky foam thing??
__________________ How long 1 minute is depends on which side of the bathroom door you're on.
JDM Tails
Infinity Kappa 6.5 front and rear
70% tint
clear bra
K&N drop in
Weather Tech front and rear mats
E-brake and Shift boot by BespokeAuto
Sullivan Race pedals
Mugen short shifter
Thanks for these pics, Mikejet! The install is pretty easy, but your pics helped clear up where to install the weatherstripping...the diagrams in the instructions are a little bit cryptic!
...I wonder how these seals work? What are their uses?
Don't know if this has already been answered, but I *think* they increase the pressure on the window against the outer seal, thereby making more pressure against the clips to hold better for a longer application life. Seems like they would eliminate the rattle some people complain of too.
And yeah, the push pins are supposed to go flush on the outside and the inner end splits to hold them in place. Make sure the two top clips are flush at the window trim. Use a finger tip to hold the clip while you push the pin through. You should be able to see that the inside pin end is through and more widely split.
I got mine from Curry Honda, on eBay.
Last edited by anniemcu; 07-20-2009 at 08:53 PM.
Reason: bad memory and good afterthoughts. 8^)
the OEM do not add pressure to the window rails, or anything...
it's hooked on by double sided tape.
folks are confusing pressure added with "in-channel" visors.
__________________ How long 1 minute is depends on which side of the bathroom door you're on.
JDM Tails
Infinity Kappa 6.5 front and rear
70% tint
clear bra
K&N drop in
Weather Tech front and rear mats
E-brake and Shift boot by BespokeAuto
Sullivan Race pedals
Mugen short shifter
the OEM do not add pressure to the window rails, or anything...
it's hooked on by double sided tape.
folks are confusing pressure added with "in-channel" visors.
No... I'm talking about the addition of the 4 little strips of foam that get stuck inside the window channel for the installation of the back visors. If they don't increase pressure there, I'd like to know what purpose they do serve.
No... I'm talking about the addition of the 4 little strips of foam that get stuck inside the window channel for the installation of the back visors. If they don't increase pressure there, I'd like to know what purpose they do serve.
My current working theory is that if you open the back windows even a little bit, a gap appears on the edges, so perhaps the piece of weatherstripping is intended to prevent water from getting into the run channel via the gap and getting down into the door?
My current working theory is that if you open the back windows even a little bit, a gap appears on the edges, so perhaps the piece of weatherstripping is intended to prevent water from getting into the run channel via the gap and getting down into the door?
i don't think it would work that way. The window gaps at the back when down even a little, as you mentioned, so I don't see where the added foam would make any difference.
Maybe they just wanted to see what we were gullible enough to do.
I'm sure there is a reason... Possibly even a good one... but I sure don't know what it is ... yet.
i don't think it would work that way. The window gaps at the back when down even a little, as you mentioned, so I don't see where the added foam would make any difference.
It would block the run channel. I'm not talking about water getting into the passenger compartment I'm talking about water getting inside the door itself.
Speaking of this, it seems like you can hardly open the rear windows at all without the potential for rain coming in? Or is the gap small enough and the overhang wide enough to prevent much water from coming in?
It would block the run channel. I'm not talking about water getting into the passenger compartment I'm talking about water getting inside the door itself.
Hmmm... I don't think it could help that, as it's only in a small section. Seems like it really only affects anything when the window is closed ... at least in the back section. I wonder if they tied an 'anti-rattle' fix into the popular visor add-on.
Quote:
Speaking of this, it seems like you can hardly open the rear windows at all without the potential for rain coming in? Or is the gap small enough and the overhang wide enough to prevent much water from coming in?
The back visors don't seem like they could keep rain out with the windows down more than a whisker or two, so the front ones are the only ones I'm leaving open on wet days. It's wet today, so I'll try to give it a close observation and see where the point between 'down a bit at the top' becomes 'open more than a bit at the back'.
The instructions tell you to ply open the rear window corner trim a bit so you pull the rubber window thingy out. You don't really need to do that. I did it with the left side very carefully. But the trim piece won't latch back on the window very tightly .
Seconded, did the same thing with the same result. Would you mind explaining a bit more what you did to make it stay tight again?
Seconded, did the same thing with the same result. Would you mind explaining a bit more what you did to make it stay tight again?
To tell the truth, although I noted the same thing, it has not been a problem, either in appearance or function, at all, so I'd forgotten about it. I did not have to move it much though.
Seconded, did the same thing with the same result. Would you mind explaining a bit more what you did to make it stay tight again?
I used some outdoor caulking where the plaster would have hook onto the door. I think I have even used a transparent shingle adhesive. This stuff is flexible yet extremely resistant to heat. But although ti won't rattle, the plastic is still not as tight as the other side where I did not ply out the plaster trim.
Skip plying open the plastic trim. Just pull out the rubber strip carefuly without ripping it. There is still enough room to add the foam thingie and then push the rubber strip back into the window.
BTW. I used the in-channel one on my other car. They looked awesome. But if there fitment is off a little in manufacturing, the visor won't stay put very well. Plus if there is an flex on the chasis, you can here the window's glass rubber against the in-channel portion of the visor (the windows would have been in direct contact of the rubber trims instead of the visor). I heard the rubbing everytime I backed my old car down my inclined driveway. When the rear wheels hit the flat section of the back ally while I am turing. The chasis flexed a little and there was that ugly rubbing sound.
Skip plying open the plastic trim. Just pull out the rubber strip carefuly without ripping it. There is still enough room to add the foam thingie and then push the rubber strip back into the window.
This is what I did. There is plenty of room to carefully work the run channel out far enough without removing the trim piece.
Thanks for the replies! Agreed, after a couple weeks driving around I haven't noticed it rattling or anything, which was what I was worried about. Still digs at the back of my brain a little bit, as something not quite right with my baby :P.
Strong suggestion for anyone else reading this thread before trying the install: do what these other people did and don't bother pulling out the plastic trim piece.
does anyone have back to back pics of USDM VS JDM visors? I haven't seen the fit enough to see a difference if there is one, in the two different market visors.
Just got done installing my visors....pretty simple. only one mishap: when i was putting on one of the clips on the driver side door the damn visor fell. now i have a few chips on the visor........nothing to noticeable....now its off to the tint shop!
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