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It looks like the valve adjustment will probably fall due at the same time as plug replacement, so the whole intake plenum will need to come off to adjust the valves anyway. I think that once the intake is removed there will be enough room to reach the plugs.
It's too bad that Honda had to locate the plugs on the back side of the head, but with a single overhead cam and 4 valves per cylinder and the VTEC rockers, there couldn't be a lot of room for a plug in those tiny combustion chambers. The intake valves are probably larger than the exhaust valves so there wasn't enough room to place them in front.
It's a lot worse than a Dodge Neon (the Neon had hydraulic lifters, too-no valve adjustments), but changing the rear belt on a Harley is a much harder job.
“Man, I was what you call ‘ragged,’
I mean, I was way beyond ‘torn up,’
I wasn’t gonna be no man’s friend today,
Been out of storage about a year now,
And to me, this endless blacktop was my sweet eternity…
I knew I was going to hell in a breadbasket.”
The Loveless 1982
Last edited by Uncle Gary; 06-17-2009 at 09:02 PM..
Of course 2007 is a different generation of Fit but I was able to change plugs today without removing all the pastics. It is intimdiating at first site but with correct length extensions is not all that hard to do. Dealer wanted $90 to change plugs, I spent $12 at the auto parts store on Denso and it took less than an hour without a manual. Don't be intimidated, do it yourself.
when we replaced the plugs on my dad's '01 cruiser and compared the old to the new there wasn't much of a difference, a little carbon scoring on one but they looked great considering they were in there for 50,000 miles. We aren't going to change them again until 100,000 miles, along with the serpentine belt because half of the engine needs to come out to get at either.
I started having hesitation at cruising speeds (light throttle)) at about 97k miles. I took it to the dealer for diagnostics and although they found a fault error they could determine the cause. There is no fuel filter on these cars, they have a strain in the tank, so the cheapest try was changing plugs. Dealer wanted $90. Plugs were changed at 101k, doidnt look too bad but now 60 miles dim certain theere the problem. Now I'm anxious to see if it helps mpg. I've been down to about 29 driving in ATL traffic
sparkplugs are easy, remove the intake box and tubing, and then reach behind the throttlebody and unclip the wire plug from the block bracket thing, so the wiring is loose (plug is still plugged in, its for O2 sensor)
Grab a 10mm socket with a short extension and go at it. Be carefull, its easy to strip #4 (Behind throttlebody)
I recommend inclipping the coils one at a time, so only one sparkplug is being messed with at any single moment
DIY intake with BLOX 6" velocity stack
Konig Heliums on Otsu/Falken 205/60/15s
2" catback with glasspack and thrush offset
GD3 Dropzones & Cusco 16mm Rear Sway Bar
Denso 22's and 93 octane = more fun (and IGN timing)
WeaponR decat 16 SEC club member
NST crank pulley (installing soon hopefully)
At a little over 101K my MM gave me the code for plugs and MT fluid change. '09 Sport. The manual says 105K for the plugs, so the MM might be jumping the gun just a bit. But I'll definitely have them swapped out in the next 2K or so.
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