Oil Change????

[ccl088]

Just changed the oil in my 09 Fit. I don't know what it is about these aluminum engines but when I go to torque down the drain bolts in this case 29 ft lbs, it feels like at just 20 ft lbs I am stripping the bolt out. Now my tools are quality Proto brand that I have used for a long time with no problems but every time I try to torque down the drain plugs on aluminum engines this happens. Does this happen to anyone else?

You know when you are stripping a bolt out by the way it gives and this does it this way on my motorcycle also which is alum.BUT it's not stripping out. SCARY! You are tightening the bolt down and it gives a little then gives a little more but all at once not smooth torque. Hard to explain but those that have tried to tighten a drain plug on an alum. engine know what I mean! I have never been able to torque a drain bolt to manufactures specs!

Anyone else here have notice this?

[Daemione]

You're using a crush washer, right? What you're feeling is the washer . . . crushing.

[ccl088]

I am using a crush washer but it's not a new one. It's the original one. I had a 1991 Accord I bought new and NEVER changed the washer and it never leaked. So it should be "crushed" already if it was properly torqued at the factory. And I think it was because the drail bolt had a green mark across the bolt and onto the engine oil pan in a straight line from the QC quy that checked the torque of the drail bolt. At 20 ft lbs the mark on the bolt and the one on the engine does not line up. They are about 1/4" off. I don't know that if they did line up would that mean that it is torqued to 29 ftlbs? It's a 1/4" past where they would line up at 20 ft lbs. I don't know??

[Daemione]

The factory torque spec takes into account a new crush washer. If you're not using one . . . it won't be applicable.

My advice: Get a new washer for when you change your oil. As you know, aluminum threads are delicate, and a fresh crush washer provides the right amount of buffer to make sure you're not damaging anything. And even from a stealership, they're only like 25 cents . . . so there's no reason not to use a new one.

[ccl088]

Maybe your right. Next time I will try a new washer but if it works I still won't get it. LOL!!!???

[manxman]

Good advice so far. Here's more- get a Fumoto drain valve and never remove another drain plug or buy another crush washer again. No lining up paint stripes, no stripped threads in the oil pan, no hot oil running down your arm, no fishing dropped drain plugs out of hot dirty oil soup in the drain pan. No tools at all needed to drain oil- just flip a lever.

[polaski]

Here I can convince you. I never changed the crush washer on the Civic until one day when I was putting it back in and took all the threads out. Uh oh. It saves the threads by reducing how tight you have to turn it while still getting a good seal.

Yup, removed oil pan, got a helicoil. Oh, and had to resurface the washer's sealing surface on the pan because that old washer had gouged it all up.

[manxman]

Originally Posted by polaski

Here I can convince you. I never changed the crush washer on the Civic until one day when I was putting it back in and took all the threads out. Uh oh. It saves the threads by reducing how tight you have to turn it while still getting a good seal.

Yup, removed oil pan, got a helicoil. Oh, and had to resurface the washer's sealing surface on the pan because that old washer had gouged it all up.

Use new crush washers, or suffer the damage in post #7, or follow the advice in post #6. Post #6 wins both for cost savings, convenience, and cost savings!

[ccl088]

yes will have to buy some. Do you know the part number or the size?

[solbrothers]

you dont need to torque the drain plug.

[ccl088]

Originally Posted by solbrothers

you dont need to torque the drain plug.

OK then how exactly do you do it?

[solbrothers]

tighten it down

[solbrothers]

torque it down insinuates you are using a torque wrench.

[ccl088]

Originally Posted by solbrothers

torque it down insinuates you are using a torque wrench.

Yes and whats the problem with that? Maybe there is one, I don't know?

[solbrothers]

you said you feel like you're stripping it. just tighten it down

[kinosh]

Originally Posted by manxman

Good advice so far. Here's more- get a Fumoto drain valve and never remove another drain plug or buy another crush washer again. No lining up paint stripes, no stripped threads in the oil pan, no hot oil running down your arm, no fishing dropped drain plugs out of hot dirty oil soup in the drain pan. No tools at all needed to drain oil- just flip a lever.

Yep. I put a Fumoto on my '08 Sport and oil changes are a snap! I highly recommend it.

[kenchan]

the dealer torques down the drain bolt waaay too tight imho.

i just tighten it down snug.

and yes, sometimes i too re-use the crush washer. never had a
leak either. the copper ones start to corrode from road salt
sometimes so those you might want to replace if they show
wear. it's good practice to replace but not always necessary.

[Tork]

I just buy like 12 crush washers and 2 ea for the tranny and I dont have to mess with it again.

And guys like Kenchan and Solbrothers who have been wrenching for a while, and have a feel for it are human torque wrenches

but for the novice who may go for the 'if some is good then more is better' mentality, then a torque wrench is advisable

[ShaggyiFit]

Always replace the crush washer. Its so cheap there is no reason you shouldnt replace it. If you go to a dealership its a 14mm crushwasher. Yes a torque wrench isnt needed, at my dealership none of us use one for the drain plug but we all know how far to go, just make it snug, its very easy to strip these out so be very careful. Ive seen it happen alot.

[DOHCtor]

Just torque it finger tight then add about a quarter turn (Maybe less... use common sense!) with a ratchet and you'll be fine! :P

Marko!