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anyone know anything about bolts??

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  #21  
Old 03-31-2009, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by goodyonsen
or weld... we are low on space though.

btw he ^^^ is my friend helping me with this
got ur back buddy

does anyone kno if you can take the header and test pipe out as one?
I don't think it would work but if there is a way it would be nice to have that extra space... also wut if we dremil it? would that cause more problems ahead?
 
  #22  
Old 03-31-2009, 09:34 PM
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Could I really get the header off and back on in an hour?? Haha
 
  #23  
Old 03-31-2009, 10:14 PM
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how did you managed to break it in half in the first place?
 
  #24  
Old 03-31-2009, 10:56 PM
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lol impact gun.
 
  #25  
Old 04-01-2009, 12:28 PM
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didn't read the other posts but if you can tap that bolt thread straight and it's extremely tight in there, why not just get a
nut+ washer + the tensioner spring and use that instead?
 
  #26  
Old 04-01-2009, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by goodyonsen
Could I really get the header off and back on in an hour?? Haha
maybe, but not likely.
 
  #27  
Old 04-01-2009, 10:10 PM
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Well tomarrow we are getting this bolt out for good...
we plan to dremil the bent end off and then use drill extractors and drill threw the bolt and hopefully get it out of their...
best we could come up with
what everyone else think of that?
 
  #28  
Old 04-02-2009, 01:27 PM
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BUMP for help!
 
  #29  
Old 04-02-2009, 02:33 PM
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In my wrenching experience, I have found that if your first method does not succeed, keep trying it over and over and over until it works.
 
  #30  
Old 04-02-2009, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by goodyonsen
this is the bolt that connects the cat to the header. i broke it in half, and it is not coming out at all. i already tried vice grips and stuff. my conclusion will be to weld the head back on. any other suggestions??



this is the head...


im open to anything. i really need to get this fixed... its leaking gas bad.

thanks guys!

You broke the head off the bolt it appears. Try pushing a thick wall pipe (1/4" sched 40 pipe about 3' long) or thick wall tube over the bolt and see if you can straighten it enough to remove it. You may need 1/8" pipe and drill & thread to match bolt threads. Then weld the pipe/tube to the bolt and try to unscrew it using a long pipe wrench on the pipe/tube.

If not thread the thick wall tube so you can thread it on the bolt then weld and try to unscrew.
And it that doesn't work, L\loosen the other clamp bolt enough to have some free play and try to straighten the bolt and pull it out. If you install a cap on the end you can use that to hammer the bolt out. After that you'll need to remove the exhaust pipe and check/repair the flanges.

If you have a torch you may try cutting the bolt at the bend but I like hammering it out best. Next time use a torque wrench..
 

Last edited by mahout; 04-03-2009 at 08:07 AM.
  #31  
Old 04-02-2009, 09:47 PM
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What do you mean a thick wall pipe? I'm kinda confused.

Anyways... Me and James tried some things today... First was just to try to heat the bolt up and bend it straight. But that was a fail. Next was to soak it in PB blasted and try to use a vice grip and twist it out. Another fail. We ran out of time.

We are going to take the header and test pipe out over spring break. That will hopefully give us more options.

Dan... I was wondering if we could enlist your help. I don't have a jack or jackstands to get the car up and also I have never taken the header off. I'll PM you soon.
 
  #32  
Old 04-02-2009, 10:07 PM
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As a last resort with the entire mess still on the car you could Dremel all the way through the entire flange. Then (carefully!) take the other bolt out, BY HAND and remove the header. You will need to replace your OE exhaust manifold at this point, which you may end up having to do anyway after the butchery you have visited upon it thus far. Used manifolds should be easy to come by (I have one I'lll sell ya for only $ 7,487.56 LOL) The header is really easy to remove provided you have the right tools (NO IMPACT GUN) There is an excellent DIY on it in fact. I would go to Sears and get a 4 1/2 inch right angle grinder and some cut-off wheels instead of using a Dremel on the exhaust flange. The Dremel will work but you'll be collecting social security before you get all the way through that sucker. Another thing you can try if you aren't that desperate yet is to grind a slot in the end of the bolt, making it look like a slotted screw, and try backing it out with a BIG screwdriver. You guys are like the Laurel and Hardy of modding, it does my heart good!
 
  #33  
Old 04-03-2009, 05:14 AM
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this is by far the most interesting thread i've seen in a long time. +1 rep even for such an accident.
 
  #34  
Old 04-03-2009, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by grtpumpkin
As a last resort with the entire mess still on the car you could Dremel all the way through the entire flange. Then (carefully!) take the other bolt out, BY HAND and remove the header. You will need to replace your OE exhaust manifold at this point, which you may end up having to do anyway after the butchery you have visited upon it thus far. Used manifolds should be easy to come by (I have one I'lll sell ya for only $ 7,487.56 LOL) The header is really easy to remove provided you have the right tools (NO IMPACT GUN) There is an excellent DIY on it in fact. I would go to Sears and get a 4 1/2 inch right angle grinder and some cut-off wheels instead of using a Dremel on the exhaust flange. The Dremel will work but you'll be collecting social security before you get all the way through that sucker. Another thing you can try if you aren't that desperate yet is to grind a slot in the end of the bolt, making it look like a slotted screw, and try backing it out with a BIG screwdriver. You guys are like the Laurel and Hardy of modding, it does my heart good!
hmm ya. i see. what if i were to dremel a slot in the top of the bolt, then stick a flathead in it and try to twist it out?
 
  #35  
Old 04-04-2009, 11:45 AM
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Thats what i had in mind. I think it might actually work if you go super slow when backing the bolt out. And the thinner the slot the better, you want to leave as much metal as possible so the head doesn't break off again.
 
  #36  
Old 04-04-2009, 01:48 PM
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Do you think I should dremel the bolt from the bottom bent side or the top??
 
  #37  
Old 04-10-2009, 04:04 PM
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bump for help! im going to try this ^^ method today!
 
  #38  
Old 04-10-2009, 05:15 PM
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[quote=goodyonsen;621709]What do you mean a thick wall pipe? I'm kinda confused.

A 3 ft long piece of scedule 40 or 80 pipe, not tubing. Found at any hardware store, like Lowes or Home depot. A 3' piece costs about $8.

What happens when you loosen the other side bolt? Does that free the flanges enough?
First, can you double nut the exposed bolt? Your photo looks like you have enough room. You may have to chase the threads to get smooth threads but that will give you a means of unscrewing the bolt from the flange using proper size wrench with a long handle. Tighten the double nuts against each other to make a 'temporary' bolt head.
Next, back to the thick-walled pipe.
A quarter-inch size schedule 40 or 80 pipe about 3 feet long. (pipe, not tubing) Slipping it over the bolt shaft gives you enough leverage to bend the bolt straight. Even better, since you have a welder, weld the pipe on the bolt shaft and then unscrew the bolt using a long handled pipe wrench on the pipe. That ought to do it.
Try capping the pipe and hammering it out with a sledge as a last resort..
If that doesn't work then dremeling or torching the bolt and flange is likely all you can do. But it shouldn't need that.
 

Last edited by mahout; 04-10-2009 at 05:21 PM.
  #39  
Old 04-15-2009, 01:41 AM
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OMG, I can't believe this... an impact gun?!?
I removed the very same fastener from a 1996 Accord with 160,000 miles on it and it came apart as if it were on a brand new car.

If you haven't already screwed it up even more, try using a stud removal socket. Google that if you don't know what it is. You'll have to straighten it out a little bit first, but once you do, the appropriate size stud socket will grip the shank of that bolt enough to facilitate its removal. A little penetrating oil will help. I suggest Aero Kroil if you can find it.
 
  #40  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:25 PM
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thanks for the ideas guys

i screwed it up even more but i can close to getting it out! im just gonna remove the header tommorow and get the header and test pipe out and work on it on a workbench so i can send that bolt to hell!
 


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