Fuel filter shouldn't need to be replaced on this car, not for a long long time anyways.

To reset ECU, just unplug the negative battery cable, press the brakes for a bit, and reconnect the battery. Put in your radio code and do the idle relearn procedure you can find on this forum. Afterwards the car will be relearning for the next 50-100 miles so go easy on the gas and see if it helps your mileage.

Did you buy this car new or used? I'm used to my 2008 A/T getting crappy mileage compared to others (averaged 26-28mpg/tank doing 50/50 city/highway), but your low mileage is as bad as I get supercharged. If nothing helps, do take it in to a knowledgeable mechanic and have everything checked out.

 

A clogged fuel filter would affect your gas mileage. They usually need to be replaced around 60-90K miles but could clog sooner if gunk got into the tank. What does the Fit manual say about fuel filter replacement?

UPDATE - It looks like there's an in-tank filter on these cars, not the normal in-line one that's designed to be changed out. Check the manual to see what it says about the fuel filter before digging into this.

 

I bought it used in October of last year at 39,000 miles. I got it through a third party, but I found the previous owner on Facebook and he said, "As far as mileage, the very best I ever got was 40 mpg, which I think is fantastic...It obviously all depends on how you drive it, but I usually never got below 30, unless I drove it particularly hard." I seem to never get ABOVE 30.

Yeah, I might end up taking it to a mechanic after all, if resetting the ECU doesn't help. But I'm hopeful that it will.

 

Did you reset the ecm yet? I hope it fixes your problem so then everyone with that problem has a easy fix.

 

Hi all,

I have been getting consistently around 6L\100km (according to the info display) on my ge8, this figure has been like this ever since i bought the car 18 months ago.

Last week just for fun and not expecting anything (my consumption was good to start with) I disconnected the battery for 30 mins, then revved it at 3000rpm (as per service manual) until the fan came on, then let it idle for 20 mins. I then did the crankshaft calibration too (CKP) that i found in the service manual. (accelerate to 2500rpm and coast to 1000rpm on a flat road a few times). I then reset the consumption meter.

The meter now reports 5.2L/100KM across the last 200KM doing the same daily route (thats a 14% improvement!). I know the meter is inaccurate but there is a definite improvement in consumption (which was good to start with...).

So people, I would advise all of you with bad or even average consumption to try the above procedure.

 

i did the whole ECU reset and the idle learn procedure last night. I noticed that the car runs a little smoother, espically when at idle. Have a whole take of gas in there now, so ill see the results in a few days.

 

Well I just finished my last MPG test, it came out to be 28.25. A lot better than what I was getting before, probably because last week when I changed the oil, I used synthetic. But it's still not quite what I want. After refilling the tank, I did the ECU reset and I'll post results when I have them.

 

Tofindyour mpg you need to actually read the gas amount on the pump that you added, and the mileage since you last refilled. If you'relike most you're putyting 8 or so gallons in on a refill of 230 miles, which is 29 mpg. Thats pretty average and same as the ratings from Honda.

 

This is intriguing - I never get above 28 mpg in the city and 31 on the highway, and my idle in park is kind of rough. Tell me how difficult it is to do this reset, I might just try it. Now, I do not drive like a grandma, I have a reputation for making my passengers sick from all my quick turns and lane changes!



I'm surprised no one is discussing the whole ethanol formulation controversy with this poster....maybe there is nowhere in the US where the gas isn't mixed with ethanol...there are different formulations of gas for summer and winter, too, so if you notice a drop in mileage at the change of season, that might be it...Also driving in a city with bad air quality can affect mileage...using the AC will drop the mileage a little...

But very intrigued to hear about this reset thingie. Please let us know what happens.

 

My guesses would be a stuck caliper (less likely, you'd feel the resulting warped rotor in the steering wheel) or valve lash out of spec.

When the valves wear in they do so unevenly valve-to-valve and you wind up with cylinders running at different A/F ratios, the secondary intake valves not opening enough to drop whatever fuel they collect in a manner easily burned, tight exhaust valves not sealing and killing compression while at the same time getting uber hot making the engine retard timing like a smallblock Ford, etc. You may not think that a few thousandths of an inch makes a difference there but it really does. If your clearance is off by just a few thousandths you'll effectively mess with the duration and valve overlap of the cam enough to throw the stock tune out the window. Our engines are particularly susceptible because of the disabling intake valves that like to pool fuel if they don't open enough, and the exhaust valves that like to stretch so much when hot. I just reclaimed 4-5 mpg minimum by correcting mine (they were pretty far off at just 19k miles).

Now that I've reread the first post... you need to understand the travesty that is the GD3 fuel gauge. It is not linear in response in true Honda fashion. Each one varies, but on mine the typical spots for the following are:
Full - to the right of F. Sits here for a long long time.
3/4 - on the line just to the left of F, right after needle starts moving.
Half - a good 1/8 inch to the right of center. It sits here for about 30 miles then BOMBS.
1/4 - barely above the leftmost line and it looks like the car is on fumes.

Now last year it was different - I always crossed center line at 140 miles last year and now it must be sticking a bit because it waits until 170. The kicker? I got better mileage last year than this year thus far (prior to the valve adjustment).

Thus: you can only tell mileage by dividing tripmeter by fillup fuel, and by having a 10.x gallon tank, leaving a couple gallons left (wise), figuring a bad scenario of 30 mpg, that's 240 miles to a fillup.

Coupled with the automatic that in the city essentially takes a quarter of your fuel to donate power to the pressure pump of the transmission... I'm not surprised.

 

The last time I calculated MPG, I did do it the right way. I divided the miles I had driven since the last fill-up by the gallons that I had just put in the tank. It came out to be around 28.

Then, I reset the ECU. I don't know if I just did it wrong, or if that wasn't the problem, but the next tank came out to be around 27.

I guess those numbers aren't too much to complain about though. I just wish I could get over 30...

 

From my experience, after you reset ECU you can expect to have lower mpg for the next 60 or so miles while the ecu is relearning... the tank right after you reset ecu is going to be lower as a result. See what your next tank comes out to - if it's still around the same, it just means that's the kind of MPG you can expect out of your car.

I don't know what the issue (if any) is with the GD3 A/T, but I also got average of 26-28 per tank using a ScangaugeII and driving conservatively. My highest was 31-32 mpg doing 90-100% highway driving one time staying at 70 mph cruise control.

Nothing has proven to "fix" this low mpg and I doubt you will get any better no matter how hard you try. Sorry but that's just what I've learned with the car after alot of frustration and money put into finding a "fix". Accepting that your car apparently (unless you can prove other people are getting the mileage they claim with your own eyes, you'll never know) gets lower mpg than others with the same car is hard, but it'll save you alot of trouble in the long run.

 

I find that different gas stations give me VERY different mileage too - the "discount' grocery store gas is the WORST mileage of any station, so I don't fill up there any more. I have pretty good results with mid-range stations, especially Valero. I just think that we could all be getting better gas mileage if we weren't putting corn in our tanks...

I mean, Honda never claimed this car could get 40 mpg and frankly, unless you are coasting a lot, and never stuck in traffic or waiting for a train, I don't see how it's possible. I know people here say they do, but I'm Doubting Thomas on that one.

28 mpg in the city is pretty good. With an automatic, you're not going to get super-high mileage. If we want over 40 mpg driving "normally," I think the car to get is a Prius (yuk)

For perspective, hubby's v-8 4 runner gets about 17 mpg city, maybe 25 on the highway. He doesn't keep track b/c it bums him out, but there you are.

 

I have notice that too, I found out that with the scan gauge that coasting in gear as much as you can will give better mileage (0 fuel being used). I live a 2 miles from the highway and sc says 20mpg and I add about 1 mpg per mile driven so after 20 miles it is at 40mpg. Wish they put a scan gauge in every car sold.

 

Well just for reference, i drive a manual 08 Fit and get on average 25 mpg thanks to my love for how VTEC sounds. But i have achieved 28 mpg one or two times when i only wanted to hit VTEC like once a week.... hehe

But this resetting the ECU thing sounds very interesting i never knew about it so I'd be interested to hear more about this!

Good Luck!

 

Just filled up and i got 28.5 that's excellent imo

 

I drive mostly highway so my mileage is near 40 in summer but I averaged 32 in the cold winter up north of Chicago, 2 winter ago I averaged 35 so I am concern about why it went down. My 3 year average is now 35.5 mpg all seasons. I got a scangauge and notice that when you put the lights on or heat the fuel use is doubled, also when everything is off except radio the volts is at 12.1 so there is no load on engine from alternator. I use m1 oil and bp premium because other stations my mileage drop even more.

 

Dam ok i had a 08 MT Fit i got any where from 36-40MPG. Now i see these numbers and am in some what fear to get a fit in AT. I right now get around 24-28 mpg in my S2000CR

 

The new fit has 16" wheels and a better ecu with a maf sensor which tells exactly how much air is in the engine. The old fit especially MT is good because you can work on them to a point cheaper then the new ivtec, which needs a k pro series tuner($700) because of the maf sensor and I believe the Ivtec can tune each cylinder instead of an average of all.

 

Great point.

In Nebraska and most of the midwest we have the following types of fuel:

Regular Unleaded- 100% gasoline 87 octane (mid price)
Super Unleaded - 90% gas 10% ethanol 89 octane (cheapest)
Premium - 100% gasoline 90-93 octane depending on what station (most expensive)

Super unleaded is the cheapest by usually $0.10 but can be as much as $0.15 cheaper. Super unleaded (for me) gives me about 15% worse fuel economy, but on the plus side the car does feel like it has a little bit more pep to it. Super unleaded also tends to give the car a little bit rougher idle. When gas is above $3.00, I tend to use Super

I almost always put in regular unleaded (except when gas is above $3.00, I switch to Super), its worth the extra ten cents per gal. to get almost 5 mpgs more. I ALWAYS use regular when going on road trips. Using regular gives me about 50 miles more per tank.

Only once have I used premium in the Fit (I swear I pushed the button for regular, and I didn't realize that it was pumping premium until the total price got above $30). Premium resulted in the same mpgs as regular. Only benefit was the Fit ran so smooth! It was amazing. It was very quiet even under hard acceleration, but it provided no extra boost of power or anything like that.

Try to use regular 100% gas with no ethanol in it (if you don't already) if it is available to you. I know some parts of the country only have ethanol blends.