Yesterday, I went to Firestone & checked the alignment since it's been 6 months. I have the lifetime on it, so it didn't cost me anything. I had my fit lowered several years back, so the alignment isn't perfect.

The guy at Firestone recommended a cam & bolt kit for the front & shims for the rear, which he said would help my alignment problem. It will cost me $350 for all parts & labor involved. If I do this, it will be a couple months down the road.

I need your thoughts on this on how much it helps.

 

Well there are people who say you don't really need to worry about camber wear, just toe wear, but my preference is to have both as close to specs if possible.

The parts themselves are pretty cheap, and installing them isn't hard at all. Luckily I didn't need to use the camber bolts for the front, but on the rear I believe my camber and toe were way out from lowering my car So I need shims. I had firestone do my alignment, They adjusted my front, and I used their reading for the rear to dial in the corrections I needed for the the SPC shims I installed. Just make sure when you install the Shims they are facing the right direction, or else you are just adding to the problem, like when my friend handed me the shim backwards...

Long story short after going in three times in one day, I got my alignment corrected without having to pay firestone for more than just the lifetime alignment, and I'm happy with doing my own labor/work for the most part.

 

I'll offer this:
If you can get the front and rear camber adjusted for $350 go for it if you get a guaranty. The three times we did it here cost more than $350 just for the rear wheels. The front another couple hundred. And those assume you didn't lower by more than an inch and a half. (more than that brings on some other problems that aren't easily fixed by camber).
We've seen more tire wear problems from too much negative camber than by toe errors on dropped cars. If the car isn't dropped then the biggest cause is toe. Like most McPherson type suspensions, negative camber increases with compression. not good on cornering when its excessive. Anyone with a swing axle Spitfire or VW or Porsche can attest to that. Only Empi's camber springs would combat the dreaded jacked-axle terror. When the camber is appropriate, a a little negative camber isn't wrong, then cornering will improve as well as handling (which I describe as my butt, eyes, and hands telling me what the car is doing instantanteously, not later).

 

I have the Eibach Pro Kit installed on my car which, according to them, lowered the car 1.6" in the front & 1.3" in the rear.

Just to give you an idea on my alignment:
-both front camber is -0.1 out of spec
-front left toe is borderline (-0.12)
-left rear toe is way out at .31 (spec range 0.00-0.20)

They gave me a printout of the shim that would be required & the results of what it would do. It would lower toe from .31 to .08, as well as slightly adjust the camber, still keeping it within spec.

 

The parts are cheap and available at any local parts store. I'd go ahead and get them, and do the job myself.

 

So lets see, first, what thickness shims are needed at each corner of the rear backplates? Think they'll be different at each corner? And each side is different mix too? Unless you have alignment tools how will you know what and how much change is needed. On a second-or third-try.
Second, camber polates are easier on the front and pretty much usual stuff as long as it fits OK. Think you might need tower braces?.
Its not just unbolt and re-bolt stuff.
Last, what'll that do to your warranty?
good luck.

 

these are very cheap you can purchase these in the local market......easily