Sticky Hatch Latch 07 Fit
#1
09-01-2011, 09:58 AM
Sticky Hatch Latch 07 Fit
My wire's 07 Fit has the remote locks and sometimes the latch on the hatch will not release when the unlock button is pressed the second time to open all the doors. After several attempts it will release and allow the hatch to open. I can take it to Honda, but I don't want them to spend hours diagnosing this problem. Has anyone else had this issue? What was the resolution?
Thanks in Advance.
Thanks in Advance.
#3
07-23-2012, 11:21 PM
Rusty rear latch does not unlock
Hello all,
My base model Fit is a 2007 that went into service in Nov of 2006. It now has been through 6 Canadian winters, 75000kms and road salt etc. It was received 4 anti-rust treatments (Krown).
Recently the rear hatch could not be unlocked with the key from the outside. The key would not turn. Something was blocking it. I managed to get the hatch open using the access hole in the inside panel. Inside the door all seemed clean and rust/corrosion free except for the lock barrel itself. I removed it and gave it a WD40 treatment and it blew out any crud before reinstalling it. Everything seemed to work fine ... for two months.
Same thing again: the key-barrel would not turn clockwise to unlock. It would lock but not unlock. I gained access again by using the access hole.
After lots of trials and observations it became clear that tension in the cable from the latch handle on the outside was blocking the latching mechanism from releasing. It would lock OK, but the slack necessary for it to unlock was not present. With the handle disconnected from the rest things were just fine.
To get at the handle you have to remove : the wiper blade, the wiper motor, and the outside plastic panel. Then the latch handle can be removed. The handle is an example of bad design ( Must not be a Honda design). It is subject to rust and corrosion due to poorly chosen materials and then exposing them to road splash etc. The handle which moves is plastic, it rotates on a steel shaft and is held in place in a steel frame about 3 inches long. There is enough accumulated rust to prevent the handle from fully returning to its normal position. You cannot see the problem as it is hidden just inside the door. The handle must be fully retracted to its normal position to release all tension in the cable to the latch. This is not happening due to rust build-up in several places around the moveable handle: at both ends due to the frame, and the rusty shaft.
If this happens to you try pushing the handle so that it returns its normal position. If that doesn't work try again. If you are still stuck open it from the inside by the access hole and then get the handle replaced. Once you have the handle exposed in your hands the obstruction offered by the rust will become obvious.
This job can be done DIY but go slow. The most difficult part is removing the outside plastic panel. It is held in place by plastic pins (three white ones and 2 black ones) which are all accessible from the inside once the wiper motor is out of the way. The pins can be pinched to allow the panel to become free, however there is a bolt and a special nut which you must remove working from the inside of the door to liberate the panel. Both the bolt and the nut (which is on the outside and exposed to road grit, salt etc) are steel and will be rusted together. The special nut is a lateral locator for the panel. The panel can slide along the nut (the nut is square to allow this). To separate the nut from the panel the panel must slide to the driver's side before it disengages the panel. Unfortunately the panel is located in a depression in the door so that sliding it sideways is not easy. You must create some slack by slacking the bolt from the inside if possible. Bending the panel is possible, as I did, but you risk scratching the paint, as I did. Bending = scratched paint and maybe a broken panel. I will replace the rusty stuff with a stainless bolt and square plastic nut from an auto supply store.
The best solution to the rusty bolt-nut would be the use of a Dremel to cut the head off the nut on the inside. It is too difficult to unscrew them while they are still in the door after the plastic panel is out of the way. The nut is on the outside of the door and the bolt head on the inside making the job very awkward. There is a risk of bending the sheet metal around the hole, chipping paint etc as I found out.
I hope someone finds this useful.
Rod
My base model Fit is a 2007 that went into service in Nov of 2006. It now has been through 6 Canadian winters, 75000kms and road salt etc. It was received 4 anti-rust treatments (Krown).
Recently the rear hatch could not be unlocked with the key from the outside. The key would not turn. Something was blocking it. I managed to get the hatch open using the access hole in the inside panel. Inside the door all seemed clean and rust/corrosion free except for the lock barrel itself. I removed it and gave it a WD40 treatment and it blew out any crud before reinstalling it. Everything seemed to work fine ... for two months.
Same thing again: the key-barrel would not turn clockwise to unlock. It would lock but not unlock. I gained access again by using the access hole.
After lots of trials and observations it became clear that tension in the cable from the latch handle on the outside was blocking the latching mechanism from releasing. It would lock OK, but the slack necessary for it to unlock was not present. With the handle disconnected from the rest things were just fine.
To get at the handle you have to remove : the wiper blade, the wiper motor, and the outside plastic panel. Then the latch handle can be removed. The handle is an example of bad design ( Must not be a Honda design). It is subject to rust and corrosion due to poorly chosen materials and then exposing them to road splash etc. The handle which moves is plastic, it rotates on a steel shaft and is held in place in a steel frame about 3 inches long. There is enough accumulated rust to prevent the handle from fully returning to its normal position. You cannot see the problem as it is hidden just inside the door. The handle must be fully retracted to its normal position to release all tension in the cable to the latch. This is not happening due to rust build-up in several places around the moveable handle: at both ends due to the frame, and the rusty shaft.
If this happens to you try pushing the handle so that it returns its normal position. If that doesn't work try again. If you are still stuck open it from the inside by the access hole and then get the handle replaced. Once you have the handle exposed in your hands the obstruction offered by the rust will become obvious.
This job can be done DIY but go slow. The most difficult part is removing the outside plastic panel. It is held in place by plastic pins (three white ones and 2 black ones) which are all accessible from the inside once the wiper motor is out of the way. The pins can be pinched to allow the panel to become free, however there is a bolt and a special nut which you must remove working from the inside of the door to liberate the panel. Both the bolt and the nut (which is on the outside and exposed to road grit, salt etc) are steel and will be rusted together. The special nut is a lateral locator for the panel. The panel can slide along the nut (the nut is square to allow this). To separate the nut from the panel the panel must slide to the driver's side before it disengages the panel. Unfortunately the panel is located in a depression in the door so that sliding it sideways is not easy. You must create some slack by slacking the bolt from the inside if possible. Bending the panel is possible, as I did, but you risk scratching the paint, as I did. Bending = scratched paint and maybe a broken panel. I will replace the rusty stuff with a stainless bolt and square plastic nut from an auto supply store.
The best solution to the rusty bolt-nut would be the use of a Dremel to cut the head off the nut on the inside. It is too difficult to unscrew them while they are still in the door after the plastic panel is out of the way. The nut is on the outside of the door and the bolt head on the inside making the job very awkward. There is a risk of bending the sheet metal around the hole, chipping paint etc as I found out.
I hope someone finds this useful.
Rod
#4
07-24-2012, 09:48 AM
Rusty Hatch Latch
Hello Sir Golf,
My Fit is a base model with manual locks not electric ones.
Try this test on yours. With the lift gate closed lock it by turning the key counter clockwise. Verify that the mechanism is locked by trying to open the lift gate using the handle. After confirming that the lock is engaged. Press the handle forward, towards the front of the car, in an attempt to rotate the handle in the opposite sense to the rotation that occurs when you squeeze it to open the door. You will obviously encounter some resistance so be careful and try this several times. A bit of WD40 and some air blast could help to dislodge any crud/rust. This should place the handle in it's relaxed position and leave the cable between the handle and the latch mechanism with no tension. The presence of the tension is what stops the unlocking from functioning.
Try and unlock the mechanism by turning the key clockwise with no tension on the handle. If there is no tension on the handle-mechanism cable the key will rotate freely and the handle will be able to open the lift gate.
For access to Honda shop manuals you can subscribe to alldatadiy.com. It cost about $25 for the first vehicle for the first year. They are great I wouldn't do anything without checking first.
I will try and take a couple of photos when I get the new handle and reassemble the lift gate.
Cheers
My Fit is a base model with manual locks not electric ones.
Try this test on yours. With the lift gate closed lock it by turning the key counter clockwise. Verify that the mechanism is locked by trying to open the lift gate using the handle. After confirming that the lock is engaged. Press the handle forward, towards the front of the car, in an attempt to rotate the handle in the opposite sense to the rotation that occurs when you squeeze it to open the door. You will obviously encounter some resistance so be careful and try this several times. A bit of WD40 and some air blast could help to dislodge any crud/rust. This should place the handle in it's relaxed position and leave the cable between the handle and the latch mechanism with no tension. The presence of the tension is what stops the unlocking from functioning.
Try and unlock the mechanism by turning the key clockwise with no tension on the handle. If there is no tension on the handle-mechanism cable the key will rotate freely and the handle will be able to open the lift gate.
For access to Honda shop manuals you can subscribe to alldatadiy.com. It cost about $25 for the first vehicle for the first year. They are great I wouldn't do anything without checking first.
I will try and take a couple of photos when I get the new handle and reassemble the lift gate.
Cheers
#5
07-25-2012, 10:14 AM
Rusty Hatch Latch
Hello Sir Golf
The handle has been replaced by a new one and the system functions perfectly.
I could have put the old handle back after having scratched off the rust, but I know the rust will be back quickly. It will take longer with a new handle. The rust occurs at the extremities of the handle bracket between the handle and the bracket. Clearances are so small that even a small amount dust and grit will grind away the paint on the bracket and rust will accumulate to the point of jamming the handle. It doesn't take much rust to jam the handle because it occurs at the farthest point possible from the centre of rotation so its leverage is the maximum possible and very little friction is required. One spot on each side of the handle, about 1/16" square, each was enough to cause all the trouble.
I took some pictures and will try and post them this evening.
Cheers
Rod
The handle has been replaced by a new one and the system functions perfectly.
I could have put the old handle back after having scratched off the rust, but I know the rust will be back quickly. It will take longer with a new handle. The rust occurs at the extremities of the handle bracket between the handle and the bracket. Clearances are so small that even a small amount dust and grit will grind away the paint on the bracket and rust will accumulate to the point of jamming the handle. It doesn't take much rust to jam the handle because it occurs at the farthest point possible from the centre of rotation so its leverage is the maximum possible and very little friction is required. One spot on each side of the handle, about 1/16" square, each was enough to cause all the trouble.
I took some pictures and will try and post them this evening.
Cheers
Rod
#6
07-25-2012, 10:27 AM
Rusty Hatch Latch
Hello agin,
If your Fit does not have a key operated lock it must have an electric solenoid instead. I suspect that the latch mechanism is the same with either the lock or the solenoid connected to the mechanism by a push/pull rod.
For the push/pull rod to function there must be no tension in the cable from the handle.
Try this: Lock the tailgate, pull on the handle, while continuing to pull on the handle (placing the cable under tension), try and unlock with your keyless zapper. If I am right the keyless system will not work as long as tension is applied to the handle. If releasing the handle does not allow the keyless zapper to unlock the mechanism it will mean that there is some residual tension in the cable between the handle and the latch mechanism. In my case the residual tension was due to rust build-up as described in my previous post.
Rod
If your Fit does not have a key operated lock it must have an electric solenoid instead. I suspect that the latch mechanism is the same with either the lock or the solenoid connected to the mechanism by a push/pull rod.
For the push/pull rod to function there must be no tension in the cable from the handle.
Try this: Lock the tailgate, pull on the handle, while continuing to pull on the handle (placing the cable under tension), try and unlock with your keyless zapper. If I am right the keyless system will not work as long as tension is applied to the handle. If releasing the handle does not allow the keyless zapper to unlock the mechanism it will mean that there is some residual tension in the cable between the handle and the latch mechanism. In my case the residual tension was due to rust build-up as described in my previous post.
Rod
#7
07-25-2012, 09:38 PM
Here are my photos:
The rusty handle bracket removed from the liftgate.
Note the gap between the black plastic handle and the rusty bracket.
The screw driver is not holding the gap open.
This gap puts tension in the cable to the mechanism.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3092.JPG/
This is how the handle should look when loose(closed).
Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3093.JPG
To take the lift gate apart remove the handhold under the door and the two plastic rivets. Push the centre pin into the rivet and lift the rivet out. To reinstall the rivet pull the pin out so the rivet can be inserted into the hole and then push the pin flush with the rivet head./Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3104.JPG
When the rivets and the handhold are out just pull the plastic trim panel off starting in one corner. This is what you get with the panel out of the way.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3103.JPG
The handle is held in by two studs/nuts. To get it out you have to remove the license plate trim on the outside. To remove the trim remove the wiper arm completely and then remove the wiper motor on the inside to get access to one of the black pins holding the trim on the outside. You can squeeze the pins to liberate the outside panel ( there are 3 white pins and two black ones), however you must first loosen a bolt holding a nut which is supposed to slide in the outside trim panel.
The sliding nut can be seen above the license plate at the bottom of the trim.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3101.JPG
The following photos are of the rusty nut and bolt that caused me much pain and my replacement non-rusting parts.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3098.JPG
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3100.JPG
I hope all of this is of some use to somebody somewhere.
Cheers
Rod
The rusty handle bracket removed from the liftgate.
Note the gap between the black plastic handle and the rusty bracket.
The screw driver is not holding the gap open.
This gap puts tension in the cable to the mechanism.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3092.JPG/
This is how the handle should look when loose(closed).
Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3093.JPG
To take the lift gate apart remove the handhold under the door and the two plastic rivets. Push the centre pin into the rivet and lift the rivet out. To reinstall the rivet pull the pin out so the rivet can be inserted into the hole and then push the pin flush with the rivet head./Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3104.JPG
When the rivets and the handhold are out just pull the plastic trim panel off starting in one corner. This is what you get with the panel out of the way.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3103.JPG
The handle is held in by two studs/nuts. To get it out you have to remove the license plate trim on the outside. To remove the trim remove the wiper arm completely and then remove the wiper motor on the inside to get access to one of the black pins holding the trim on the outside. You can squeeze the pins to liberate the outside panel ( there are 3 white pins and two black ones), however you must first loosen a bolt holding a nut which is supposed to slide in the outside trim panel.
The sliding nut can be seen above the license plate at the bottom of the trim.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3101.JPG
The following photos are of the rusty nut and bolt that caused me much pain and my replacement non-rusting parts.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3098.JPG
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3100.JPG
I hope all of this is of some use to somebody somewhere.
Cheers
Rod
#8
07-27-2012, 09:00 AM
Rusty hatch latch
Hello Sir Golf,
Glad to see that you got inside the door. I can't say if your electric mechanism is different from the manual one apart from the presence of an actuator solenoid. A photo taken from a little farther from the mechanism may give me a better view.
You say " the actuator hasn't pushed the plastic far down enough,". I had a similar problem. Why doesn't it push far enough ? Is something worn out, bent, or dirty ? Is there some friction in the assembly which resists the actuator? In my case the problem was in the handle as it was not fully retracting due to friction caused by the presence of a build-up of rust. When I disconnected the cable to the handle the mechanism/manual lock worked every time so I knew they were both OK and the real problem was somewhere else.
Try replacing only one item at a time and see if one of them is the real source of the problem. You could also perform another test. Put the old parts back in place, disconnect the cable to the handle, and test again.
The handle, part number 74810-S6A-003, cost me $58.60Can, taxes included, so it would be less in US$.
I am sorry about the photos. I am still trying to figure out how to post them.
I may have to build an album here. I have tried that already but the "system" places my photos in their numerical order rather than the order in which I post them so this puts them out of sequence to match the text I posted. I'll try and get back on it this week-end. There also sees to a limit on the pictures that can be posted at one time, 3.
Cheers
Rod
Glad to see that you got inside the door. I can't say if your electric mechanism is different from the manual one apart from the presence of an actuator solenoid. A photo taken from a little farther from the mechanism may give me a better view.
You say " the actuator hasn't pushed the plastic far down enough,". I had a similar problem. Why doesn't it push far enough ? Is something worn out, bent, or dirty ? Is there some friction in the assembly which resists the actuator? In my case the problem was in the handle as it was not fully retracting due to friction caused by the presence of a build-up of rust. When I disconnected the cable to the handle the mechanism/manual lock worked every time so I knew they were both OK and the real problem was somewhere else.
Try replacing only one item at a time and see if one of them is the real source of the problem. You could also perform another test. Put the old parts back in place, disconnect the cable to the handle, and test again.
The handle, part number 74810-S6A-003, cost me $58.60Can, taxes included, so it would be less in US$.
I am sorry about the photos. I am still trying to figure out how to post them.
I may have to build an album here. I have tried that already but the "system" places my photos in their numerical order rather than the order in which I post them so this puts them out of sequence to match the text I posted. I'll try and get back on it this week-end. There also sees to a limit on the pictures that can be posted at one time, 3.
Cheers
Rod
#9
07-27-2012, 10:52 AM
Hatch latch Problem
Hello Sir Golf,
This is getting interesting. Honda may have two problems rather than one, which is too many anyway.
I look forward to hearing from you when you install the new stuff.
I really think that doing the install/test of one item at a time is the way to confirm which part or if both parts are bad.
Please keep me informed.
Cheers
Rod
This is getting interesting. Honda may have two problems rather than one, which is too many anyway.
I look forward to hearing from you when you install the new stuff.
I really think that doing the install/test of one item at a time is the way to confirm which part or if both parts are bad.
Please keep me informed.
Cheers
Rod
#10
09-21-2015, 08:42 PM
How did you open the trunk from the hole inside??? Mine is stuck and I can't open from the outside... I tried pushing the actuator stuff from left and right but can't get it open. Please help 
#11
09-23-2015, 04:32 PM
There is a little hole that is plugged with a plastic plug inside the tailgate. Pop it out taking care not to scratch the plastic and it will reveal the latch mechanism which you should be able to nudge over to the side (with a tool like a screwdriver).
The trick for making sure the latch unlocks with the fob is to make sure the handle has fully returned to the closed position. I found during cold weather that my handle would stay slightly in the open position which makes it impossible for the actuator to unlock the door but pushing the handle back to the closed position (with your hand) and unlocking using the fob did the trick of me.
The trick for making sure the latch unlocks with the fob is to make sure the handle has fully returned to the closed position. I found during cold weather that my handle would stay slightly in the open position which makes it impossible for the actuator to unlock the door but pushing the handle back to the closed position (with your hand) and unlocking using the fob did the trick of me.
#12
09-23-2015, 08:23 PM
There is a little hole that is plugged with a plastic plug inside the tailgate. Pop it out taking care not to scratch the plastic and it will reveal the latch mechanism which you should be able to nudge over to the side (with a tool like a screwdriver).
The trick for making sure the latch unlocks with the fob is to make sure the handle has fully returned to the closed position. I found during cold weather that my handle would stay slightly in the open position which makes it impossible for the actuator to unlock the door but pushing the handle back to the closed position (with your hand) and unlocking using the fob did the trick of me.
The trick for making sure the latch unlocks with the fob is to make sure the handle has fully returned to the closed position. I found during cold weather that my handle would stay slightly in the open position which makes it impossible for the actuator to unlock the door but pushing the handle back to the closed position (with your hand) and unlocking using the fob did the trick of me.
#13
10-25-2015, 02:14 AM
Did you get it to open? I had that problem and I had to push all the way right to open. Make sure handle is fully pressed in and then push unlock and push the switch all the way right. Than handle worked to open the hatch. I'm trying to find out how to replace the handle. Are you working on that as well?
#14
10-25-2015, 02:03 PM
Missing photos reposted
Here are my photos:
The rusty handle bracket removed from the liftgate.
Note the gap between the black plastic handle and the rusty bracket.
The screw driver is not holding the gap open.
This gap puts tension in the cable to the mechanism.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3092.JPG/
This is how the handle should look when loose(closed).
Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3093.JPG
To take the lift gate apart remove the handhold under the door and the two plastic rivets. Push the centre pin into the rivet and lift the rivet out. To reinstall the rivet pull the pin out so the rivet can be inserted into the hole and then push the pin flush with the rivet head./Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3104.JPG
When the rivets and the handhold are out just pull the plastic trim panel off starting in one corner. This is what you get with the panel out of the way.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3103.JPG
The handle is held in by two studs/nuts. To get it out you have to remove the license plate trim on the outside. To remove the trim remove the wiper arm completely and then remove the wiper motor on the inside to get access to one of the black pins holding the trim on the outside. You can squeeze the pins to liberate the outside panel ( there are 3 white pins and two black ones), however you must first loosen a bolt holding a nut which is supposed to slide in the outside trim panel.
The sliding nut can be seen above the license plate at the bottom of the trim.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3101.JPG
The following photos are of the rusty nut and bolt that caused me much pain and my replacement non-rusting parts.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3098.JPG
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3100.JPG
THE RUSTY BOLT AND SQUARE NUT WERE REPLACED BY A STAINLESS BOLT AND PLASTIC NUT.
I hope all of this is of some use to somebody somewhere.
Cheers
Rod
The rusty handle bracket removed from the liftgate.
Note the gap between the black plastic handle and the rusty bracket.
The screw driver is not holding the gap open.
This gap puts tension in the cable to the mechanism.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3092.JPG/
This is how the handle should look when loose(closed).
Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3093.JPG
To take the lift gate apart remove the handhold under the door and the two plastic rivets. Push the centre pin into the rivet and lift the rivet out. To reinstall the rivet pull the pin out so the rivet can be inserted into the hole and then push the pin flush with the rivet head./Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3104.JPG
When the rivets and the handhold are out just pull the plastic trim panel off starting in one corner. This is what you get with the panel out of the way.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3103.JPG
The handle is held in by two studs/nuts. To get it out you have to remove the license plate trim on the outside. To remove the trim remove the wiper arm completely and then remove the wiper motor on the inside to get access to one of the black pins holding the trim on the outside. You can squeeze the pins to liberate the outside panel ( there are 3 white pins and two black ones), however you must first loosen a bolt holding a nut which is supposed to slide in the outside trim panel.
The sliding nut can be seen above the license plate at the bottom of the trim.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3101.JPG
The following photos are of the rusty nut and bolt that caused me much pain and my replacement non-rusting parts.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3098.JPG
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3100.JPG
THE RUSTY BOLT AND SQUARE NUT WERE REPLACED BY A STAINLESS BOLT AND PLASTIC NUT.
I hope all of this is of some use to somebody somewhere.
Cheers
Rod
Last edited by ElanS2; 10-25-2015 at 02:08 PM. Reason: ADDED EXPLANATION
#15
10-26-2015, 07:08 PM
Did you get it to open? I had that problem and I had to push all the way right to open. Make sure handle is fully pressed in and then push unlock and push the switch all the way right. Than handle worked to open the hatch. I'm trying to find out how to replace the handle. Are you working on that as well?
Should it force to push it towards the right? (Assuming I'm inside the car looking at the tiny hole)
#16
10-26-2015, 09:08 PM
On my Fit the rear hatch latching mechanism is composed of three distinct parts:
the manual operating handle above the license plate, the latch at the bottom of the door. and the key mechanism on the right(when looked at from behind the car. The electric door must have another mechanism somewhere. Each of these items has to be free to move and do it's job. In my case I was only able to determine that the handle was the problem when I separated all the links and tried to operate each item on it's own. Everything was loose except the handle.
To do the above I had to remove the trim panel and maybe the wiper motor.
The manual key mechanism and the handle are both exposed to the outside and susceptible to contamination from salt and road grit. The other items are all inside the door and protected. If you want to see what is really going one you must remove the door trim panel and wiper motor. Access to the bolts holding the handle requires the removal of the door trim too. Removing the door trim is no problem. It just clips into place.
the manual operating handle above the license plate, the latch at the bottom of the door. and the key mechanism on the right(when looked at from behind the car. The electric door must have another mechanism somewhere. Each of these items has to be free to move and do it's job. In my case I was only able to determine that the handle was the problem when I separated all the links and tried to operate each item on it's own. Everything was loose except the handle.
To do the above I had to remove the trim panel and maybe the wiper motor.
The manual key mechanism and the handle are both exposed to the outside and susceptible to contamination from salt and road grit. The other items are all inside the door and protected. If you want to see what is really going one you must remove the door trim panel and wiper motor. Access to the bolts holding the handle requires the removal of the door trim too. Removing the door trim is no problem. It just clips into place.
#17
12-14-2015, 02:10 AM
Here are my photos:
The rusty handle bracket removed from the liftgate.
Note the gap between the black plastic handle and the rusty bracket.
The screw driver is not holding the gap open.
This gap puts tension in the cable to the mechanism.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3092.JPG/
This is how the handle should look when loose(closed).
Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3093.JPG
To take the lift gate apart remove the handhold under the door and the two plastic rivets. Push the centre pin into the rivet and lift the rivet out. To reinstall the rivet pull the pin out so the rivet can be inserted into the hole and then push the pin flush with the rivet head./Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3104.JPG
When the rivets and the handhold are out just pull the plastic trim panel off starting in one corner. This is what you get with the panel out of the way.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3103.JPG
The handle is held in by two studs/nuts. To get it out you have to remove the license plate trim on the outside. To remove the trim remove the wiper arm completely and then remove the wiper motor on the inside to get access to one of the black pins holding the trim on the outside. You can squeeze the pins to liberate the outside panel ( there are 3 white pins and two black ones), however you must first loosen a bolt holding a nut which is supposed to slide in the outside trim panel.
The sliding nut can be seen above the license plate at the bottom of the trim.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3101.JPG
The following photos are of the rusty nut and bolt that caused me much pain and my replacement non-rusting parts.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3098.JPG
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3100.JPG
THE RUSTY BOLT AND SQUARE NUT WERE REPLACED BY A STAINLESS BOLT AND PLASTIC NUT.
I hope all of this is of some use to somebody somewhere.
Cheers
Rod
The rusty handle bracket removed from the liftgate.
Note the gap between the black plastic handle and the rusty bracket.
The screw driver is not holding the gap open.
This gap puts tension in the cable to the mechanism.
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This is how the handle should look when loose(closed).
Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3093.JPG
To take the lift gate apart remove the handhold under the door and the two plastic rivets. Push the centre pin into the rivet and lift the rivet out. To reinstall the rivet pull the pin out so the rivet can be inserted into the hole and then push the pin flush with the rivet head./Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3104.JPG
When the rivets and the handhold are out just pull the plastic trim panel off starting in one corner. This is what you get with the panel out of the way.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3103.JPG
The handle is held in by two studs/nuts. To get it out you have to remove the license plate trim on the outside. To remove the trim remove the wiper arm completely and then remove the wiper motor on the inside to get access to one of the black pins holding the trim on the outside. You can squeeze the pins to liberate the outside panel ( there are 3 white pins and two black ones), however you must first loosen a bolt holding a nut which is supposed to slide in the outside trim panel.
The sliding nut can be seen above the license plate at the bottom of the trim.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3101.JPG
The following photos are of the rusty nut and bolt that caused me much pain and my replacement non-rusting parts.
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3098.JPG
/Users/rodmci/Desktop/IMG_3100.JPG
THE RUSTY BOLT AND SQUARE NUT WERE REPLACED BY A STAINLESS BOLT AND PLASTIC NUT.
I hope all of this is of some use to somebody somewhere.
Cheers
Rod
#18
12-14-2015, 08:21 AM
On our '07 we didn't really need any tools. We didn't need to take the hatch apart, either.
We raised the hatch, dripped oil into all the pivot points on either side of the handle, and it freed up. (An assistant to hold the hatch in the preferred position really helped.)
Then, we packed grease into the pivot areas (a Q-tip helped here) to prevent future difficulty.
Also, I made a note to add this lubrication point to our period maintenance (same time as when we oil all the hinges and latches).
We raised the hatch, dripped oil into all the pivot points on either side of the handle, and it freed up. (An assistant to hold the hatch in the preferred position really helped.)
Then, we packed grease into the pivot areas (a Q-tip helped here) to prevent future difficulty.
Also, I made a note to add this lubrication point to our period maintenance (same time as when we oil all the hinges and latches).
#19
12-14-2015, 10:53 AM
Vap3: if you need to borrow tools I recommend that you try Buff's approach first. It will probably save you a lot of trouble. You will have to keep it lubed after, but that should be done anyway even with a new handle. The job wasn't easy and did take some skill and patience to avoid making a real mess. Someone who doesn't have tools to start with may not have enough experience to find their way through the job anyway. Here is a non-exhaustive list of what you may need:screwdrivers both flat and philips, 10mm wrench and socket, small breaker bar for the socket (1/4" drive), needle nose pliers, wiper arm puller to get the arm off the shaft, Neiko tools 20598A kit of no-scratch tools for trim removal, lots of rust breaker WD40 or whatever, a bucket of patience and luck.
#20
12-14-2015, 02:22 PM
Hey Carbuff2 and ElanS2 thank you for the responses!
Yeah the time I saw the car the latch opened no problem, and now when I insert the key (Base Canadian LX model no keyless) it doesn't feel right and tight when turning left and right.
I did notice the latch button is stuck though so I can't "unsqueeze" it, I'm going to have to try to do what I can with this info to get it working again. First things first I'm going to go behind the hatch and see if I can open it from the inside out lol.
Yeah the time I saw the car the latch opened no problem, and now when I insert the key (Base Canadian LX model no keyless) it doesn't feel right and tight when turning left and right.
I did notice the latch button is stuck though so I can't "unsqueeze" it, I'm going to have to try to do what I can with this info to get it working again. First things first I'm going to go behind the hatch and see if I can open it from the inside out lol.
