Lately my car has been acting strange. Whenever I start my car the rpm stays above 1k (which is normal) but once it warms up it drops below 1k to the middle of 0 & 1, kinda seems like its gonna die. Another thing is when I turned on my ac it does the same thing. Rpm drops & my car shakes struggling to raise the rpm again. Idk what's causing this but I need to get it fix ASAP.

 

have you try to clean the air flow sensors ? and try to clean the idle up sensors..

my jazz did this.. and after i clean my idle up sensor and all the air flow sensors it's okay now..

good luck..

 

Is there a Mass Air Flow sensor in the GD? I know my GE has one. Can't find it on the GD.

 

^^ what he said, i had some idle problems couple months ago, checked all the senors and found that the air senors where dusty and grimmy after i cleaned mine it idled like new.

 

the 2 small sensors in the intake system, to be honest i don't really know the name, my service center said that.. but, yeah if you clean those sensors, the idle will be fine..

 

What page number is it in in the GD manual that contains the MAF?

 

I did a further check. According to what I found on this site and others, there is no MAF sensor in the GD. If I'm wrong on this please let me know where it is located in the manual. MAP is all that I can find.

 

A MAF and MAP do the same function, they just do it in different ways. It then sounds like the GDs have a MAP and not MAF

 

That's strange then because the GE's have both a MAP and a MAF sensor.

 

^+1 to what all others have said

As far as that is concerned, its actually normal. Your AC condensor draws power to kick on so RPM's dip for just a moment (If its dark outside you might even notice your headlights dim for a moment as well). Same thing might happen while you're driving and roll down/up your windows as well. Like I said, it's perfectly normal, but if you want to "fix" it, you can always buy a condensor like this one:



I believe they cost a bit over $100. Instructions are pretty straight forward. All it does it ground your electronics better so when your AC kicks on, windows are rolled down/up, etc your RPM's don't dip. Hope this helps!

 

i ask my friend who works in honda.. GD has MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), and IAT (Intake Air Temperature)

 

I agree with you on the AC dip, but the thing that bothers me is that he is saying that it idles at around 500 rpm. I'm pretty sure Hondas normally idle around 800 to 900 rpm... at least, the four I had did. 500 rpm sounds like it is getting to the point of quitting.

 

yup, you are right.. my jazz idle at 750 RPM, and about 900 rpm when the a/c compressor came on..

 

So where are these sensors located? And how did you guys clean them?

 

Yeah, I'm also interested in more information on the intake sensors (where to find, how to clean)

My problem is slightly different:
My '07 Sport AT with 92k is idling low when its cold out and when I first engage the Transmission. I idle at about 1100rpm in park on a cold morning, but when I switch to Reverse or Drive, and the idle falls to like 500rpm or lower; I've even stalled out a few times. If I'm rolling the idle is fine, but when I stop the idle drops again. Also if the engine warms up, I don't have the low idle problem.

I'm getting close to 100k so I was thinking that my spark plugs and or ignition cables might need to be changed. Ive also run through a few different tanks with isopropyl alcohol and fuel injection cleaner thinking that it might be a mixture problem. But that didn't seem to help. Thoughts?

 

anyone try doing the proper start idle learn procedure when you disconnect the -neg battery?

 

Thanks for the suggestion: (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...procedure.html)
I'll give it a shot.

 

Let us know how this works out. If this doesn't work, I would still try cleaning the MAP. My guess.... something is trying to regulate the RPM down based on some inlet condition. The engine may sense a warm condition when the outside air is really colder. Check the air flow to the filter for blockage. But, let us know if the reset works... many, here, may find the information useful.

By the way. If you don't know where the MAP sensor is in the car go here... part number 17. http://www.hondapartseast.com/compon...old-e__03.html

 

The idle re-learn procedure seems to have greatly improved my idle situation. I did it last night, but since the engine was warm after the procedure it was hard to tell if it had made an improvement as I only see the problem when the engine is cold. This morning was chilly (36F) and when I started my car, the idle was a little lower than it has been while in park ~800rpm. (It used to idle at about 1100 under no load.) When I put it in reverse, the idle stayed steady at ~800. I pulled out of my garage into the colder air, and stopped the car where it used to behave the worst (down to 400 and sometimes stall out if i didn't take it out of gear or rev the engine.) Today it only dipped the slightest bit, maybe to 700rpm, with no sign of quitting. So re-learning seems to have made a nice improvement without cleaning the MAP sensor. I also checked for blockages by the air filter and didn't see anything out of the ordinary, and my air filter is relatively clean so the only change that I made was the idle re-learn.

I'll also check to see if my gas mileage improves over the next few weeks. I used to get 29-33mpg with 90% highway commute (variation was in how hard I drove) but over the last year or two it has been slowly declining, and I now average in the 22-26mpg range.

 

I'd be interested if your mileage comes back, as well. 22 mpg is much too low for what most people are getting in their cars if they normally got 29 mpg. Unless you drastically changed your driving habits, this shouldn't change that much. 700 rpm sounds like a typical acceptable idle while 400 is just too low.