ok so after i hit 150k the other day, i started getting a clicking noise in the rear, and the fast i go the faster it click which is why im thinking its one of the rear wheel bearings. Any ideas? Anyone have this issue?

 

Wheel bearings don't click. They rumble. It will be louder on the outside wheel when you turn.

 

hmmmmm, maybe its the rear drums... never touched them

 

Try remounting your wheel or torquing the lug nuts again. Could have worked themselves a little loose.

Please let us know if that solves it.

 

already checked that... found out that if i pull the e-brake while driving, the sound goes away. So i'm think the drum pad are shot.

 

Yep! thats what it was! Wow i feel stupid

 

Haha nice! Are you using metal hub rings?

 

idk.. its all stock back there.. i only have 7mm spacers in the rear.

 

Ah I see, the click could've been the spacers. Just make sure your spacers and wheels are tight, and all mating surfaces are clean. If the click comes back try applying a tiny bit, just a thin film, of grease or another lubricant on the mating surfaces. You should be fine.

 

Last I had a clicking issue, it was a rock. Haha! THAT would have been embarrassing on the forum.

 

i had what sounded like a metal scraping come from the front left , turned out it was a rock stuck between the rotor and the metal shield in there. my gf thought i had broke my car at first , till a pair of tweezers pulled the rock and fixed it.

 

I had that issue the first time I took my new rims out to the countryside... man that plate is awfully close!

 

Look for simple things first, like a rock caught in the tread groove.
And wheel bearings can click when a single ball is chipped or flat-spotted.

 

Just yesterday I noticed a clicking sound on my rear wheels. And i think it is clicking on both sides. I just installed new rims. Is there a problem on my rims? And what do you mean guys by torquing the lug nuts? Thanks!

 

First, did you check behind the wheels for clearance? That is, is there anything that the wheels, including the spokes contact as they turn? An consistent clicking sound, especially if on both wheels and the clicking increases with the speed of the car, points to the wheels contacting something as they rotate. That could be dangerous so do not fail to check immediately, if not sooner. As for a bearing, it could be but the odds of both wheels clicking at the same time isn't high on my list of sources. Unless you mounted a very low offset wheel.
If you find something you can perhaps clear it by adding 1/4" spacers.And it is possible to have just one spoke contact something and not the others but likely most of the spokes will contact if one does.
Second, it is also possible that your wheels aren't tight based on your asking about 'torquing' lugnuts.
There is a requirement for wheels to be tightly and evenly fastened to the car's hubs and that tightenss is specified as the torque, or force applied to the lugnuts to insure they are tight. There are wrenches called torque wrenches that measure the torque by measuring the bending of the very closely controlled diameter bar between the handle and the lugbolt socket. That bending indicates the force by a long 'needle' that is attached to the socket so its independant of the force applied to the handle at its hand position. The needle swings across a scale displaying the torque values and as the force increases the needle moves farther upscale. For most alloy wheels the desired value ranges from 80 to 110 pond-feet for lugnuts with threads of 12x1.5, meaning 12mm diameter by 1.5 mm pitch, or separation between rows of threads.
As added infortmation, when you tighten wehel nuts you need to tighten the nuts progreesively back and forth across thge diameter of the circle of the bolts until you reach the correct value.. it helps to finger finger tighten nuts and then tighten to final value in two or three 'steps, such as 50 pound feet anf then 85 pound ft, the final value or whatever your manual calls for. And recheck torque a couple of times after reaching final value.And regularly after that, say once a week. Alqways recheck new wheels after only a few miles and again after 100 miles., So buy a torque wrench; figure on $25 but you'll need it for more than your wheels if you DIY.
BTW, torque is measured by pouind-feet, meaning the combination of the force appliedcmultiplied by the length of the 'wrench' If 50 pounds are applied at a distance of 15 inches,m or 1.25 feet, the torque is 1.25 x 50, or 62.5 pound feet.
BTW there are torque wrenches also that you 'set' the desired torque and they 'click' when the set toque is reached. They cost more, naturally.
Hope that helps.
Good luck.

 

Wow! Exactly the information i need! My wheels are 15x8 +15. Ill try to check it after work. But the problem is I work at night. And when i get home, it is still dark. And i live only in an apartment so my parking is outdoors. I still need to wait for the sun to rise. And still got work until saturday. I thought it is just a minor problem. Good thing you explained it well. Ill first try to check behind the wheels. Thank you very much!!!!!

 

I thought I would add to this Topic since our GD Sport (113K miles) had two instances of intermittent noises and clicking from the rear wheel area.


Over time (and especially in areas that use a lot of road salt) rust can swell up or 'bloom' in the groove in the brake drum (circled in red), where the backing plate meets it. (This is not a Fit drum, I just found the image on the 'web)



In our Fit, we first noticed a clicking noise, once every rotation of the rear wheel. Inspection revealed rust in this groove, making the gap noticeably smaller in some spots, so I removed the rust with a screwdriver then wire-brushed the groove to clean it out. Noise gone!


I should have then checked the other side at that time, but I didn't, 'cause I was afraid I would lose my Preferred Membership in the Slacker's Club . Of course, a few months later, I heard complaints of a grinding noise during the first low-speed turn of the day. Could not duplicate the noise myself...



Turns out the groove on the other side was also rusty...so again, I scraped the circumference with a screwdriver, wired brushed everything clean, and re-installed the drum.


This is a cheap resolution to this problem...it might be worthwhile for owners of drum-braked Fits to clean the groove as preventative maintenance.