hi everybody!

I've just purchase a fit! enjoy it so far. however, I think there is a problem with the car but I can't find it

car is manual, when accelerating from low rpm (2k and under) the car is actigh rough, it gives "hits". (really hard for me to describe as I don't speak english very well)

it feels like being in 5th gear at 10 mph and I floor the gaz pedal (like if the car would stop / big hesitation) but it does that everytime I'm at 2k rpm and under and I give more than half the trottle

my guess so far

-clogged something (catalysor, gaz filter, spark plug...dunno)
-head gasket (car don't smoke / drip)

I've also checked the air filter and it's new

I know fit have no torque but I can't belive this is normal

is this something you have already heard of? common problem?

fit is a 2007 with 80K miles

thank you a lot for your input.

 

reading this forum I found thah I probably have the bad coil problem.

At 100$ / coil, I don't want to change all of them, is there a way to know which coil is faulty? I don'T have any CEL at the moment

 

You can either wait until you get a CEL, or pull the coils and plugs and inspect them:

You would want to set the sparkplug gap to spec or a little narrower.

You would want to look carefully at the coils, look for signs of arcing (electrical "tracks" on the outside), clean them and apply dielectric grease to reduce the possibility of a misfire.


If you are REALLY ambitious, you could check and adjust the valve clearance while you are in there.

 

Same thing happened to me at almost 86,000 miles for my 07 Honda Fit Sport. The dealer service replaced the coil that was identified as faulty, but a day later another one went. I had the dealer service replace the rest right away. Yes, $400 plus later, but I am good to go for a long time now.

 

found out that the spark plugs were defective,ones at the rear were the faulty ones,just replace all eight,now not a mumor from the engine.perfect every time you slow down and accererate

 

I have the same issue. No engine light. Only happens sometimes. Spark plugs replaced with NGK. when I was changing the plugs, one coil pack was blacker than the rest.

My issue is not as frequent. It happens when I'm goin slow and then punch the has. There is a minor delay and then the car picks up and continues. It's as if I have turbo lag. Don't really want to wait for an engine light.

 

I had the same problem, had my mechanic replace them all. No problems with that since he has worked on my vehicle.

 

Make sure if you get new coils get oem hatachi after market still caused me issues with no cel

advanced auto parts 4 pack for 220 is what i got mine for and there a 90 warranty might do spark plugs to ether denso or ngk reccomended

 

I've been having what sounds like the same issue with my 07 Sport manual, which now has 99.6k miles. Intermittently beginning about 9 months ago, under normal acceleration the car hesitates as if the gas supply is momentarily cut off. I brought this up when I had the car serviced back in July, but they detected nothing with diagnostics and running the engine. Sometimes there are no symptoms for a month or two, then it starts happening again but never severe or consistently enough for me to take the car in (especially since they found nothing last time).

Do you think this is probably the result of coils going bad?

 

In my opinion and excrescence I say yes Coils or spark plugs,
Your having what they call intermittent stalling no codes.
Mine got so bad it would die while driving and I thought it was my fuel pump , one day flooring the peddle got a flash of a cel used my scanner and got multiple misfire code .

If you do get coils Get oem Hatachi brand new after market coils still cause me misfires, also check your battery
honda fits seems to have really dramatic effect with failing coils compared to other cars

 

Thanks for the excrescence, I'll be sure to bring up "intermittent stalling no codes" and have my dealer service check the coils when I have my car in next week (they always check the battery). They're going to install a new right front caliper (the boot is torn).

 

Bernardi Parts XMS sales prices are $394 for a complete set of oem coils & spark plugs. I'm sure I'd pay more for the parts plus a big chunk of change for labor if I bring my 2007 Fit Sport into the dealer to have all this replaced.

I'm not much of a mechanic, but very tempted to do the work myself. How difficult of a job is it to replace coils & plugs?

 

220 for a pack of four at advancedautoparts hatachi


there's a video of how to change them for the most part

having the right tools is what makes it easier, when installing spark plugs if you dont have a torque wrench once hand tightened with spark plug socket and exstention put your ratchet on and do a quarter turn.

and when putting coil screw back in lightly tighten those

another questions let me know

 

I was a little confused by the sentence in your previous post above, and wasn't sure if you were saying that Hitachi coils caused misfires.

Thanks for the video and all the help. I will probably replace the plugs while I'm at it. I'll let you know if I have any other questions.

 

Yeah I would say to go with the Hatachi.

I had import direct coils from orileys that cause me issues

 

Yeah - find the latest Advance auto online coupons on retailmenot or some other site (usually 30% off) and order everything from their site for pickup at a store. Pick them up, borrow whatever tools you need from them and you can install everything in their parking lot in under an hour, even if you don't know what you're doing. That's what I did. No problems at all. The OEM Hitachis get to be about $50 each this way; spark plugs under $10.

 

Replacing colis and plugs is easy but you need certain specialized tools. Actually, replacing the coils is child's play, it's the plugs that take a few tools.

Here's a list of stuff you need:
-a spark plug socket. I strongly recommend a magnetic one if you can find it. Most spark plug sockets have a rubber boot inside to grip the spark plug but mine stays stuck in the plug more often than not. This is infuriating.
-a ratchet and extension
-a torque adapter. Digital torque adapters are a little box that fits between the wrench and the extension or socket. It has a little screen that shows you how much force you are applying. Sparks require 14 foot pounds on the GD3. You can get actual torque wrenches but for delicate jobs I think these wrenches are too expensive.
-Dielectric grease. This is a special insulating grease that you should cover the porcelain (white) part of the plugs with.
-I personally use anti seize compound on everything so I do so on plugs.

Steps:
-Remove the plastic cover
-disconnect the 4 plastic electrical connectors located at the back of the head of the engine.
-remove the little screws retaining the coils. Pull straight out to remove them
-remove the spark plugs with the socket
-grease the spark plug, before fitting in the socket then lubricate the thread sparingly with anti seize. Torque to 14 ft lbs
-replace the coils. Torque regaining bolts to 5 ft lbs
-reattach the clips and replace the cover and voilą.

Plugs and coils are the single most easy job on a car. Even if you aren't mechanically inclined, do it, it's super easy. You just need the right tools and greases.

 

Thanks for the detailed instructions, MTLian. I have the plugs & coils and will do the job this weekend. I've been reading up quite a bit on this, but you're the first to mention a torque adapter. My biggest concern is the proper amount of torque, followed by extracting the old plug. Good torque wrenches are too expensive for a job I might do once every 8 years. I'll check out a torque adapter and a magnetic socket when I go to the store today to pick up dielectric grease. There's a lot of disagreement about whether to use anti-sieze, so I think I'll pass on that. Common advice is to let the engine cool down, and change the plugs one at a time to avoid debris falling into the holes. In the "Official DIY: Changing Spark Plugs" thread the torque specs are given as 13 for the plugs and 7.2 for coil bolts.

 

An extraction tip:

Extraction tip:

Make sure your plug socket is firmly seated and in place. If normal unscrewing force doesn't work, try a couple SHARP, SUDDEN movements, that should break it free.


Replacement:

You can't go wrong with the video's advice: Once the effort to screw-in the plugs noticeably increases, it means you are starting to compress the metal sealing ring. Then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more will be fine, the seal will compress.

The only way this is inaccurate is if the seats that the seals touch have grit or dirt on them.


And another thing, even though many plugs are pre-gapped, I'd strongly recommend checking the gap as seen in the vid (with the wire-loop gauge).


Yeah Well, I've read that since the mid-2000s, spark plug makers have put a coating on the threads that is supposed to serve as anti-seize. That said, I still use the anti-seize, just put a little on the threads, not the seal. (You don't want to diminish the conduction of the plug)

 

No sweat man! Extracting old plugs is easy since they require a relatively low amount of torque, it doesn't take much force to loosen them.

I have a torque adapter and it's range is stated as 20 to 99 ft lbs. I still use it for plugs because I look at the screen and I make sure to stop at the correct torque. If I had to do it again, I would look for a torque adapter with a range of 5 to 50 ft lbs. They can be had on amazon for about 40$ and are worth their weight in gold and are very accurate. Torque wrenches in general are most accurate in the middle of their range so I'm using mine in a range where it is least accurate HOWEVER, least accurate is within a 2-3% error margin for my digital torque adapter which means that even if it's off, it wouldnt even be close to being 1 ft lbs off.

Remember many pro mechanics don't bother with torque wrenches because they don't have time and they have the experience to apply correct torque by feel. By using torque wrenches we are being extra careful so their's no need to have a heart attack about torquing a bolt to 14 ft lbs instead of 15. The reason I use them is because I don't want to apply 50 ft lbs where 14 is required which would for sure cause damage. Way to go for finding the correct torque values. I just named these values off the top of my head and didn't consult my service manual because I was confident that the values i stated were close enough to the exact specs to work perfectly.

I don't know what the "danger" of apply anti-seize is; I guess if it was over applied it could foul up the tip of the plug but you'd have to be splattering it on like an idiot for that to happen. However the danger of not applying anti-seize is that the plug could seize in the head. For me, the rewards outweigh the risk so I go ahead and apply the anti seize but this is my personal opinion and many would disagree and would advise against anti-seize. If you don't have any anti-seize, I recommend picking up some permatex anyway, it is truly a great product that makes working on cars more enjoyable (for me).

The reason why you want the engine to be cold as possible is that aluminum expands and contracts with heat and cold so it is possible that if you torqued the plugs on a hot engine, once it cooled off and the aluminum constricts it is possible the torque would be less. The last plug job I did was on a buddies car. It was winter and we parked his car with the hood open and ate some supper and came back an hour later and did the plugs. The engine wasn't dead cold but barely warm so I felt it was OK. Just don't go driving for an hour on the highway and expect to do the plugs 5 minutes later.

As far as dropping something in the head, I wouldn't stress about it too much. Just be extra careful to keep excessively dirty tools (like with caked on mud or rust falling off of the tool) or little bolts, nuts or screws AWAY from the 4 openings. If you were to drop a little bolt down into the head, you would for sure be in a world of hurt and you'd have to try and find a way of getting it out before being able to reassemble the parts. Use common sense and don't drop metal bits or dirt in the holes and you'll be fine. The openings are small so there's little chance for something to fall in there but if it did, it'd be extremely hard to get it out.