I have a 2008 Fit basic with automatic transmission. Lately I've been noticing occasions when driving at highways speeds and then gently accelerating, I'll get sudden hiccups of loss of torque for a split second. It would remind you of say suddenly being hit by a strong wind gust. If I accelerate hard enough so the car downshifts, I don't notice this problem. Likewise, I don't seem to notice it at lower speeds when in lower gears. Any ideas? Transmission problem?

 

coil packs! (10char.)

 

Search this forum for stuttering, hesitation, stalling. It's likely coil pack(s) failure. That, in my opinion, is due to carbon buildup on your pistons and cylinder head combustion surfaces and/or valve tappet clearance to high or too low. Adjust your valves as a start. A few people have solved that issue with just a valve adjustment.

 

I posted once about a problem I have of rough idle/stalling when cold that's fine after warmup. Dealer claimed dirty throttle box (if I have my terminology correct) but whatever they did did not fix the problem and I have been living with it. I wonder if the two problems are related? One of the suggestions was a valve adjustment. When I suggested it to dealer, he said valves are self adjusting and should not be touched. Any comments on that? I know there's probably dealer anti-sentiment in this forum but I have no tools, no knowledge, no space to do repairs myself.

 

Geepondy, your dealer is an idiot. His/her dealership deserves a large sinkhole opening under his/her building. The Fit has adjustable valve tappets. I too had a garage tell me it was "carbon" buildup on the throttle body and all I needed to do was squirt cleaner into it. That was another idiot. Most dealers are probably good. They're just in business to make money and you are free to go elsewhere if you don't like what they charge. A valve adjustment is a good start. If that doesn't do it then coil packs. If that doesn't do it then write back.

 

+1

You are experiencing the same problems that are extremely common on the GD Fit.

How many miles do you have? Do you drive the car at all hard?(IE to redline or close.)

The Fit engine DOES require valve adjustments.

There is no set interval for the valve adjustment, it is dependent on drive style. I had to have my fist adjustment done around 50K. I just rolled 70K and may need to do it again.

Coil packs are also a potential issue on your list.... But start by pulling and checking spark plugs and considering the valves before replacing them.

 

Honda recommends the valves be adjusted at ~100k miles, while many recommend adjusting earlier than 100k miles.

There's a maintenance minder code for a valve adjustment. I think it's with the spark plug change.

 

OK, car has 70K miles. I've had the recommended service manual work which included "tuneups" at 30K and 60K. Nothing extra engine wise has been completed and I'm sure valves never adjusted. I don't drive it particularly hard, mainly just a 45 mile daily work commute. In addition to problems of rough idle and highway torque loss issues, the engine just seems to have a general lack of pep, compared to when it was new.

As mentioned, I don't have tools, knowledge, nor space (live in condo development) to do the work myself. Anybody reading this from Massachusetts? Dealer I've been going to is one that has ads plastered all over Boston radio and TV media. Any recommendations for shops in the Boston North Shore / Merrimack Valley area? What about Honda North in Danvers, MA?

Or how do I go about finding a place myself?

 

What was included in your 30k and 60k mile tuneups? There isn't really anything to tune up before 100k miles if you're going by the owner's manual. Only stuff like fluid changes, brake pads/rotors, brake cable adjustment, air filters, or whatever comes along.

People with your reported symptoms typically have their problems solved by either a valve adjustment and/or coil pack replacement.

Hopefully someone from your area can chime and recommend a shop for you.

 

OK quick update. Brought it to local recommended garage where it sits now. Guy was able to duplicate rough idle in cold but then it got better. Says to him, it really feels like a skip and is surprised it doesn't throw an engine code. He is going to try plugs first for money reasons. He thinks if a bad coil, the failure wouldn't recover, once bad, they stay bad, likewise would stay bad if valve adjustment issue. Says coils are expensive and doesn't want to shotgun them if he's not sure which one.

 

I wanted to provide an update as the problem of the highway skip and rough idle was indeed a valve adjustment problem. As I mentioned earlier when brought up the possibility to the dealer service center, he said valves did not have to be adjusted. When brought up to the independent guy, he too was skeptical but did his own online research where again it was a valve adjustment consensus. When he examined the valves, he said the intake valves were all in spec but the outlet valves were all way too tight. He did an adjustment and the problem is completely solved. How nice it is to to able to start the car and drive away without having to wait five minutes for fear the car would stall.

A question I would ask is how did this happen and why is this such a common Fit occurrence? I thought valve adjustment/valve jobs went the way of the ring jobs and points replacement. I had a 1988 Toyota Corolla which I drove for ten years and 230K miles without having to adjust the valves, likewise for a Subaru that I drove for many years.

I want to thank all participants who replied and helped me with this problem.

 

Most manufacturer's cars have hydraulic, self-adjusting valve lifters. Most (if not all) Hondas have solid, mechanical valve lifters that need to be adjusted periodically.

It's a recommended service at ~100k miles but it's not uncommon for the Fit's valves are out-of-spec earlier than that.

 

I wonder why Honda wouldn't go that route? I only hope I haven't aged my engine considerably by "choking" it to death. I drove with this problem for many months.

 

Very simple UNLEADED FUEL is the cause. The lead in old time fuel used to cushion the valves when they closed. When the lead additives were removed now the valves BANG shut with nothing to cushion then when they hit the valve seats.

The result is when the very hot exhaust valve bangs back onto the seat the valves and seats bend and deteriorate. Think about how the valves are situated in the head with the valve springs pulling them upward.

Now when they slam into the seats the valve head is forced onto the seat with the springs pulling on them the result being they "grow" or get stretched and the valve seats get pounded inward. The valve then sticks up further toward the springs (the force being applied to the valve) and the clearance CLOSES (or get less) and that is why many of the Fits need valve adjustment at about 50,000 miles.

The reason MOST of the intake valves clearance being larger is they run much cooler than the exhaust valves and they wear from being pounded on by the rocker tips (or cam followers whatever you want to call them).

Since Honda engines generally are built to run at higher RPM the top of the valve stem takes a real beating so they wear down INCREASING the valve clearance.

But the bottom line is this is normal wear and tear with non-hydraulic lifter system.

"Running" or adjusting the valve clearance used to be part of a tune up on cars before your time it's a normal maintenance operation.

The only thing is Honda should do is revise their owners manual and repair manuals and add valve adjustment to the maintenance schedule at around 50,000 miles so people would know it needs to be done.

If they did we would not be having all these threads about poor running Fits.

 

Mechanical lifters have their advantages at higher RPMS. For example, like keeping the valve clearances more accurate at high RPMs, meaning a smoother, higher-revving motor (generally). One disadvantage is the need for valve adjustments.

Hydraulic lifters have their advantages and disadvantages too.

Don't worry about having done damage to your engine. You should be fine.