Like I said if you don't care to listen to hard evidence be my guest. You will NEVER believe anything that goes against your preconceived notions. Why don't you try going to any of the numerous sites online, that PROFESSIONALS (not online uninformed hobbyists) use for calculation. Any one you pick by yourself and see how they ALL agree with my figures and prove it to yourself using your data???

Don't want to believe me or anyone else prove it to yourself. And then you would be looking at your own work not some off the wall online information (your words).

Guessing you have not disconnected your alternator yet to educate yourself on how the electrical system REALLY works.

What I am attempting to do is provide information and methodology, for other members, so they can do checks themselves and determine for themselves what is really going on with this let them decide.

What I would do is look around your base and locate an electronics shop that works on any one of several systems used by the military and present your case to them. Buy them a beer or two and pick their brains including the fact that the Fit has an internal voltage regulator and ELD controlling the alternator and see what their conclusions are if you don't believe me.

But I already know what they are going to say because them and myself have had the same military electronics training.

 

Looks like at least a few people know my pull the battery cables is a legitimate diagnostic tool and not BS.

And it works on old time vehicles generators too.

Technical 57 Olds Generator help - THE H.A.M.B.

 

Hello everyone hope everything is well. I haven't had much free time too try and put my alternator back until yesterday but it was going well until i tried to crank her up. When trying to plug back the battery terminals they start sparking you can feel the battery getting hot and their is no power going to the car when turning the key. I ruled out the alternator, I replaced the alternator starter wire what could be the problem? Thanks

 

It sounds to me like you got a short circuit somewhere—one of the positive wires from the battery grounded somehow, most probably. You may have a fuse or a fusible link that is now blown (which is not a terrible thing—it may well have prevented a fire). Hopefully, your battery isn't toast; I'd suggest checking its voltage with it disconnected, and charging it (with it disconnected) if it's lowish. If it's really low, you'll probably have to replace it, though of course there's no harm in attempting to recharge it. Don't put it back in the car without locating and correcting the short circuit.

 

As soon as it started sparking I disconnected the battery and the wire that went to the alternator. If I keep the starter wire disconnected from the alternator the car powers up fine. The battery is a little low I had it charging a while back but not completely drained. Where could this fuse be that could be short circuited in the fusebox by the battery or under the steering wheel? Meh I am starting to think I took on a little too much when it comes to electric components but I am not going to take any chances and just going to try and look thru the fuses again see if one is loose or blown

 

It is NOT an fuse loose or blown. Do not bother with them. You have a SHORT. A blown or loose fuse would be an OPEN circuit. You probably have something wired wrong or a wire connector touching ground.

I'm not sure what you were trying to accomplish when you started this project, but go back and recheck your work or put it back the way it was before you started.

By any chance did you connect the main power lead to the alternator to a ground terminal?

 

The only thing I can find that is off is that ground wire coming from under the manifold. It is right across the alternator and runs along with the alternator wire but it is not connected to anything.

 

the plate has nothing to do with it it is just to hold tie down the wire harness correct?

 

Any fuse/fusible link that blew would be between the battery and the alternator/starter; I think there are some in the big red-covered block thingy that attaches to the positive battery terminal. (That's what it looks like to me, at least; I don't have a service manual to verify precisely what's going on.)

If something is blown, it will be very obvious once you get everything else sorted out—stuff will be dead that should not be dead. If a quick glance doesn't disclose anything amiss, it's not worth spending much time searching. The first order of business is finding out where you have the short circuit—i.e. whatever is grounded that should not be grounded.