I'm currently in the process of replacing the battery terminals on my wife's 2008 Honda Fit. What I barely realized after buying new replacement terminals was an 80v fuse box attached to the positive terminal. A little bit of online research led me to find this is the "secondary fuse box".

What I'm looking for is a little bit of information regarding what this fuse box controls, if I'm able to ditch it for a regular terminal or where I can relocate it if possible? There's an autozone right down the street from where I live if there's anything I can get there that will help.

I've attached pictures of it to this thread. Thanks guys.

 

You gotta have the fuses. Figure out how to get the whole thing bolted to the new clamp if possible.

If the original cable clamp is not causing problems, don't replace it. (The replacement shown is only supposed to be a temporary clamp anyway.)
Yours doesn't look corroded or anything, why mess with it?

 

They both pop off easily which means they've been stretched out. What would you recommend I do to officially get them fixed? Take the car to Firestone?

 

Looks like Honda makes you buy the positive cable.

We keep a supply these post shims at the shop just as a super cheap fix for stretched and deformed original cable clamps.

Tap to seat one in place over the post, loosen the clamp as far as the bolt will allow, install cable clamp as far down as possible. Tighten and go.


As long as the clamps are not broken, these have worked well for us.




I'm sure many parts stores will have some of these, I got a shot of the brand and its part number for you.

 

Been using a piece of house wire for a shim for years. Never an issue.

 

^^What e' says. Those shims are your best alternative to replacing the clamp with an OEM part. Easy, too. Just my opinion, of course.

 

I have needed to shim the battery terminals on both our Hondas.



You can buy the ones that ezone pictured, or make your own from one or two thicknesses of aluminum beer can. When I make the shims myself, the aluminum only goes halfway around the terminal...that way the original terminal provides the majority of the contact area.

PS: When you have that positive terminal/fuse holder off, you are well advised to check the electrolyte level in the battery. Add distilled water if necessary (it tends to get low during the summer).

 

The starter relay is directly connected to the battery. The line that goes to the fuse box is protected by the 80A fuse. If you really want to replace the connector, you could put an 80A fuse inline with the wire or on the firewall. I've been looking at doing that as part of my battery upgrade.

 

Nah, I've switched out my terminal connectors and she runs great. The plastic one they originally had on the positive was always popping off, so I swapped it. Zero issues.