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At my wits end with my 08 Fit Sport

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  #1  
Old 03-16-2018, 12:29 PM
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At my wits end with my 08 Fit Sport

Hey All,

I’ve been having the same issues for almost 3 years now. My engine will sputter and misfire often and I’ve gotten the same codes repeatedly. P0420, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303 and P0304. The problem started off happening every couple weeks then every couple days and now it runs terribly most of the time. I’ve had it completely stall out on me maybe 10 times. Most of the time that happens when coming to a stop. When it’s running especially bad I can put the gas pedal to the floor and get basically no power out of it.

We’ve tried replacing the spark plugs and doing a valve adjustment which didn’t seem to change anything. We then tried replacing coil packs on multiple occasions thinking that may be the issue. This seemed to fix the problem but only ended up helping for around 9 months and then the problem returned. I’ve also replaced both O2 sensors because of some forum posts I’ve seen.

I’ve taken it to the dealership and multiple mechanics and no one seems to have any idea what the problem is. They always seem to just want to replace the coil packs. (I’ve put probably 6 coil packs into my car over the last few years.) And that’s only ever been a temporary fix.

At this point they’re telling me that it’s possibly the catalytic converter. But they don’t seem to be confident about that actually fixing it. They just keep telling me to get rid of the car but at this point that’s not really an option.

I’m getting desperate, this problem has been driving me crazy. I’ve been throwing money at this single issue for years now and besides this I haven’t had a single other issue.

Am I wasting money if I replace the cat?

I appreciate any help or advice you guys can give.

A few more things I remembered: I noticed the issue is more pronounced when driving up hill. Also when it was first starting out it seemed to be worse when I had the A/C on. Also for a while as the problem was getting worse I noticed that it barely happened if I ran the car in 4th gear.

edit: just for clarity also: it hasn’t always been all cylinders misfiring. It started off with just one or two having issues and then we replaced coils. Then the other cylinders started and I replaced those coils. This happened back and forth a couple times. Now at this point ALL cylinders are misfiring.
 

Last edited by iforgetus; 03-16-2018 at 05:21 PM.
  #2  
Old 03-16-2018, 01:52 PM
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what brand of spark plugs?
what brand of ignition coils?
 
  #3  
Old 03-16-2018, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BurntZ
what brand of spark plugs?
what brand of ignition coils?
spark plugs were put in by a Honda dealership so I’m sure they’re OEM. The coils are hitachi which from what I’ve read is OEM too.
 
  #4  
Old 03-16-2018, 02:00 PM
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Denso and Hitachi....good job. So we should be able to rule that out given that you've done the valve adjustments (hopefully by a qualified technician). It is a shame this is happening to you. I can only ask: if it was the catalytic converter all along, why would the symptoms go away for a 6 month period after you put in fresh Denso/Hitachi products? I think putting in a new cat would be a waste of time. I'm also sorry to read that getting rid of the car is not an option. It is terribly frustrating just throwing money into a car which is now over 10 years old. With all the oxygen sensors on cars these days (upstream/downstream)....I can't help but think that it may be a faulty sensor
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BurntZ
Denso and Hitachi....good job. So we should be able to rule that out given that you've done the valve adjustments (hopefully by a qualified technician). It is a shame this is happening to you. I can only ask: if it was the catalytic converter all along, why would the symptoms go away for a 6 month period after you put in fresh Denso/Hitachi products? I think putting in a new cat would be a waste of time. I'm also sorry to read that getting rid of the car is not an option. It is terribly frustrating just throwing money into a car which is now over 10 years old. With all the oxygen sensors on cars these days (upstream/downstream)....I can't help but think that it may be a faulty sensor
That’s the thing that’s been most confusing for us too.

Ill add that the most recent thing I’ve done is replace the upstream and downstream sensors about 6 months ago. Didn’t seem to make any difference whatsoever.
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:17 PM
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OK, that's good that you added that piece of information to the puzzle. Hopefully someone smarter than me will be able to add some wisdom. Also, have you pulled your ignition coils and spark plugs to see if they have become fouled/burned/sooted since you put the new ones in? Again, someone on this board maybe able to say that a catalytic converter failure would have no affect on the ignition system components.
 

Last edited by BurntZ; 03-16-2018 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BurntZ
OK, that's good that you added that piece of information to the puzzle. Hopefully someone smarter than me will be able to add some wisdom. Also, have you pulled your ignition coils and spark plugs to see if they have become fouled/burned/sooted since you put the new ones in? Again, someone on this board maybe able to say that a catalytic converter failure would have no affect on the ignition system components.
I haven’t. I don’t have much knowledge to really do any of this stuff myself. I know they were checked When I took it to the dealership a little over a year ago (this was the last time I replaced a couple coils) and they didn’t mention any issues with the spark plugs.
 
  #8  
Old 03-16-2018, 05:26 PM
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Some of the ignition coils? We may be getting somewhere. When ignition coils are needed (circa 100,000 miles), it is best to replace all of them. Finding a bad one and replacing it has never worked for people. If there are still original coils in the car, that might be the problem.
 
  #9  
Old 03-16-2018, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BurntZ
Some of the ignition coils? We may be getting somewhere. When ignition coils are needed (circa 100,000 miles), it is best to replace all of them. Finding a bad one and replacing it has never worked for people. If there are still original coils in the car, that might be the problem.
At this point I’ve replaced all the coils just not all at once (a couple have even been replaced twice at this point) right now all coils in the car are less than 2 years old.
 
  #10  
Old 03-16-2018, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by iforgetus
Hey All,

I’ve been having the same issues for almost 3 years now. My engine will sputter and misfire often and I’ve gotten the same codes repeatedly. P0420, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303 and P0304. The problem started off happening every couple weeks then every couple days and now it runs terribly most of the time. I’ve had it completely stall out on me maybe 10 times. Most of the time that happens when coming to a stop. When it’s running especially bad I can put the gas pedal to the floor and get basically no power out of it.

We’ve tried replacing the spark plugs and doing a valve adjustment which didn’t seem to change anything. We then tried replacing coil packs on multiple occasions thinking that may be the issue. This seemed to fix the problem but only ended up helping for around 9 months and then the problem returned. I’ve also replaced both O2 sensors because of some forum posts I’ve seen.

I’ve taken it to the dealership and multiple mechanics and no one seems to have any idea what the problem is. They always seem to just want to replace the coil packs. (I’ve put probably 6 coil packs into my car over the last few years.) And that’s only ever been a temporary fix.

At this point they’re telling me that it’s possibly the catalytic converter. But they don’t seem to be confident about that actually fixing it. They just keep telling me to get rid of the car but at this point that’s not really an option.

I’m getting desperate, this problem has been driving me crazy. I’ve been throwing money at this single issue for years now and besides this I haven’t had a single other issue.

Am I wasting money if I replace the cat?

I appreciate any help or advice you guys can give.

A few more things I remembered: I noticed the issue is more pronounced when driving up hill. Also when it was first starting out it seemed to be worse when I had the A/C on. Also for a while as the problem was getting worse I noticed that it barely happened if I ran the car in 4th gear.

edit: just for clarity also: it hasn’t always been all cylinders misfiring. It started off with just one or two having issues and then we replaced coils. Then the other cylinders started and I replaced those coils. This happened back and forth a couple times. Now at this point ALL cylinders are misfiring.
I think is the crank shaft position sensor that is malfunctioning. I am surprised the dealer did not go there first. A p0300 is a generic misfire code usually a fuel related issue but since all cylinders are miss firing along with a catalytic efficiency code from the raw fuel. If the sensor is OK then its the ecu but 99 percent sure its a crank sensor problem. Not all issues will have codes and most codes for a problem is something other then the code. The engine does not know when to fire the plug and or inject fuel because the position sensor is not reading the right timing signal.
 
  #11  
Old 03-17-2018, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
I think is the crank shaft position sensor that is malfunctioning. I am surprised the dealer did not go there first. A p0300 is a generic misfire code usually a fuel related issue but since all cylinders are miss firing along with a catalytic efficiency code from the raw fuel. If the sensor is OK then its the ecu but 99 percent sure its a crank sensor problem. Not all issues will have codes and most codes for a problem is something other then the code. The engine does not know when to fire the plug and or inject fuel because the position sensor is not reading the right timing signal.
really appreciate that. I’ll really look into that. Looks like a fairly easy fix too which is nice.
 
  #12  
Old 03-17-2018, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by iforgetus


really appreciate that. I’ll really look into that. Looks like a fairly easy fix too which is nice.
No problem. You have spent alot of money on replacing the same parts and if you still have the old ones I am sure they are still good. https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/cr.../fit-1-5-l-117 I looked a crank position sensor trouble shooter. You seem to have all of them and more.
 
  #13  
Old 03-17-2018, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
No problem. You have spent alot of money on replacing the same parts and if you still have the old ones I am sure they are still good. https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/cr.../fit-1-5-l-117 I looked a crank position sensor trouble shooter. You seem to have all of them and more.
already ordered the part on amazon! If this does it you’re my hero! This problem has been driving me CRAZY for years now.

 
  #14  
Old 03-17-2018, 12:59 AM
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I cant think of any thing else it could be especially since you changed every part more than once and its been going on for years progressively getting worse. Disconnect the battery when installing the part too. If it was the Cat it would not run by now. It might be damaged due to the miss fires but after you install the part take it out for a good ride getting it hot to burn off any contaminates. Vacuum leaks will have O2 codes usually.
 
  #15  
Old 03-19-2018, 10:20 AM
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Replying so I can follow.
Wish you the best. Mine is an '08 with the cylinder/coil pack/spark plug/misfire issue as well. Im plagued by a CEL that stays on for months then goes off for a month then blinks at start up then stays on for a while. This morning the CEL on start up did not come on. Any takers on the over/under plus/minus 12 hours, on one week til next CEL?
 
  #16  
Old 03-19-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by benmaggoswd1
Replying so I can follow.
Wish you the best. Mine is an '08 with the cylinder/coil pack/spark plug/misfire issue as well. Im plagued by a CEL that stays on for months then goes off for a month then blinks at start up then stays on for a while. This morning the CEL on start up did not come on. Any takers on the over/under plus/minus 12 hours, on one week til next CEL?
Thanks. It’s really been driving me crazy. Every time I take it to someone they just shrug and tell me to get rid of it.

if this crankshaft sensor ends up helping I’ll let you know.
 
  #17  
Old 03-19-2018, 01:25 PM
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How many miles?

Valve adjustments are required every 60k miles. That does not mean listening and saying they are OK. That means pulling the valve cover and using feeler gauges to physically check the clearances. Even dealers are ignorant to this fact, but it's in the maintenance minder system.

Tight exhaust valves can cause misfires and are silent.
 
  #18  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:01 PM
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I just replaced my set of coils with cheapie ebay coils with the red tips, ($25 for a set of 4 new coils), as well as a set of NGK OEM IR plugs. I also changed out a very filthy air filter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Packs-of-4-...8/332491816725

Totally fixed my studdering problem at idle and at 60mph. There is no need to buy $50/ea Hitachi coils. Also the dealer sometimes tries to troubleshoot which of the individual coils have gone bad versus just replacing all 4. The other 3 that have not been replaced will eventually go bad. I have a theory on why it goes bad, I'll try to take some pictures tonight for the oxidation and buildup on the inside.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GQ_Style
I just replaced my set of coils with cheapie ebay coils with the red tips, ($25 for a set of 4 new coils), as well as a set of NGK OEM IR plugs. I also changed out a very filthy air filter.
Make a note with today's date and miles on your car. My experience from 10 years on this forum tells me that those coils won't last more than 30k miles.
 
  #20  
Old 03-19-2018, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GAFIT
Make a note with today's date and miles on your car. My experience from 10 years on this forum tells me that those coils won't last more than 30k miles.
Yeah I noted the date and mileage. But even if it lasts 30k miles it would be great at $25/4 shipped. I can change out the whole ignition coil set every 10k miles and still be no worse off than if I bought the Hitachi's at $50/ea. I'll report back if the idle studder comes back. I just needed an immediate fix to confirm the problem causing the studder. Longevity is another issue, all of these are consumables at this point.
 


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