Before we get started...

Updated 2/10/14

Disclaimer: This is a live and changing FAQ document. The first post will contain pertinent information and get more added to it as time goes on. You are still liable for any changes made to the PerfectPower SMT8L tuner included in your Sprintex Supercharger System. Please also refrain from derailing the discussion. We're putting this here for your benefit, not entertainment.

Now, on with the show .

Sprintex website: http://www.SprintexUSA.com

Sprintex Honda Fit/Jazz/City Supercharger kit flyer: http://www.sprintex.com.au/wp-conten...-Jazz-2013.pdf



Downloads and links:

SMT8-L Description: SMT8-L

SMT8-L Instruction Manual: http://www.perfectpower.com/product_...cal_Manual.pdf

New version of SMT8-L software (v2.1533): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...loy_Public.msi

USB Drivers for 64 bit machines:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwvr2cb3xt...0_Setup64b.exe
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwvr2cb3xt...0_Setup64b.exe

.NET framework files

http://www.microsoft.com/en-za/downl...ils.aspx?id=21
http://www.microsoft.com/en-za/downl...ils.aspx?id=21



The SMT8-L unit can be a little finicky on uploads and downloads. The shortest possible serial cable is recommended. These updated drivers help to keep your uploads consistent.

Sample Log File (thanks Steven Hung!): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...202%202014.RDR

Current Tune File (Loaded before shipping.): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...elco%20Map.LDC

Updated 91 octane tune file (2/10/14): https://www.dropbox.com/s/htwz20vmqk...oct%20v1.1.LDC ("right click, save as" to "c:\tune_mapfiles".)

Tips and tricks:

1.) Watch out for data corruption in the parameters menu. Shift-F1 brings up the parameters menu where this can occasionally occur with a "2112" value and would be highlighted in red. The pre-loaded maps have been checked for this before being shipped.

2.) Create a new folder on your root "c:\" drive. Name it EXACTLY:
C:\Tune_MapFiles. Put your SMT tunes and your files there. The LetRipp software is an evolving work in progress. It is built on top of their older versions, thus it has the habits of the older software versions. It's happier with the files there.

3.) Under the "Properties" menu
3a.) Select the compatibility mode as "Windows XP SP3"
3b.) Run the software "As an Administrator."

3.) The USB cable you need is a Mini B male USB cable, like a GoPro or cellphone.

 

After loading the tuning map, I noticed something. In the "F8 - AFR LOOP TARGET" display there are mostly 0.0s and a few 0.7. But the oddball (to me) is the -87.0 for column 32 (not sure what that number represents) and row 4700 (which I am guessing is RPM).

is that right?

*in the log, it shows the column as 40.

 

That table is not actually used. Safe to ignore that one. You can set it to "0" if you want to. I am anal about it and change it anyway. Good eye, though.

It can enter random numbers now and then, but usually does so in specific spots. Data does not get corrupted randomly in the unit. I'll highlight these bugs here, too.

 

The GM 1 bar voltage map defined in the AMP calibration does not look 100% correct. Shouldn't the voltage verse PSI be linear? What should the correction be for the values into the box in the Excel spreadsheet?


Here is voltage psi table on GM map sensor.

 

I believe the voltage value in Pos 20 should be 4.34 volts and Pos18 should be 4.02 volts. Here are numbers crunched in Excel.

 

Did you adjust these? You're right about the numbers. This needs a gradient, but I wouldn't change the table to what it is in the chart pic you posted. One thing at a time.

 

You'll notice that you cannot load a map without the SMT8L unit connected. This is how you load one without the box connected.



Click in the upper left to "Load Offline SMT8Lite Piggyback". If you load any of the others, you can't see the SMT8L maps. Save your maps to "C:\Tune_mapfiles" for best results. That's just one of those little quirks of the box.



You can now load a map to poke around with and see what this little box is all about.

Select the little "Open Folder" icon, and select an SMT8L map



Here is the map loaded (with data displays turned on.)

 

Logging in the SMT8L

Data logging in the SMT8L is a priceless tool when it comes to testing and debugging. The unit will log everything that it is wired to. Another helpful tool is an OBD scanner. The difference is that you will see voltages listed in the SMT8L unit vs. actual OBD figures in the scanner.

This is good to test continuity of signals. I'll cover what to look for a bit later. For now, this is just "going through the motions" getting set up.

You can find a copy of a healthy log file here (right click, save as {filename} to C:\tune_mapfiles):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...202%202014.RDR

Logs should be saved to the default "C:\tune_mapfiles" directory.

When you want to log data on your SMT8L unit, click on "Logging" and then select "start logging".




If you want to play back a log instead, then click on "Logging" and select "Play back".



When you select "Logging : Play back", the Play back box should appear. Go ahead and drag that down to the lower part of the screen because it will obstruct the view of your data display (covered later).




Click the "Load Recorded Playback" button and the file folder will pop up.



Then select the logfile you wish to view.




Here, you can see data displays and the instructional cursor in green. That little cursor moving around is what output instruction is being performed in the SMT8L's mapping.




Next, I'll highlight what data displays are helpful and which ones you can safely ignore....after lunch.

 

If you ever need to reset your SMT8L unit, here is how. This will completely erase the map from your unit and reset it.

Make sure you are connected to your SMT8L unit:



Left click your mouse on "Map A" and hold it down for 5 seconds.



Type "restore_me" into the message box and click "OK".



Do you wish to continue? Click "Yes."



Unit was reset. All data is lost. You can now reload your map. This obviously won't fix bad wiring, but it does refresh the unit with a blank slate. It's the "nuclear option" .

 

Here are two logs and my latest 91 octane map for a stock Fit.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yrqfobzooq...th%20boost.RDR

Putting around at low rpm. This is a couple of minutes of normal driving. You can see that there is boost pressure at very low revs where this engine is happy but needs a little help to scoot along. See the cursor move to the right at low rpm, before a downshift? That's the skosh of boost that it gets down low (2-4psi).

Full throttle.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/se13dmcepz...20throttle.RDR

A couple of minutes into this log, you can see a full throttle pull in the first few gears. The serial connection is a little loose on this laptop, so you might see the log pause for a second or two periodically.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/htwz20vmqk...oct%20v1.1.LDC

The map is cleaned up a bit, but untested in actual hot weather on 91 octane. Spark plugs are a colder BKR7e11, which allowed a skosh more timing up top in vtec, 5500rpm+. I spent a fair bit of time cleaning up at part throttle and adding some top end power. Timing is removed down low but added up top. With timing added right off idle, the car had a tendency to creep while in gear. Adding a bit of timing under vacuum in cruise helps with fuel mileage. Part of the advantage of the Fit ECU is that you can add timing with our piggyback.

 

What typically happens with piggyback computers is that the stock PCM does not like being told what to do. You are typically stuck with appeasing the stock computer instead of telling it exactly what you want to do. You guys are somewhat lucky...somewhat. Most stock PCM's hate what your stock PCM actually doesn't mind doing.

If you want the factory computer to do something that it disagrees with---like add timing or too much fuel---it will usually find away around the instructions you give it. This creates a nasty work loop of constant retuning because the stock PCM refuses to cooperate.

The new map I generated is still an "appeasement map". The blower and the additional injector are invisible to the stock computer. This is the way that it should be. The stock ECU does not know that either the piggyback computer nor the blower are there. This creates two scenarios---it has no idea that there is help with airflow AND fuelling! To maintain this cloak of invisibility, it is necessary to add the appropriate amount of fuel and keep timing adjustments to a minimum. I added some fuel under vacuum because the PCM does not know it has help with VE. It can think the extra air is a leak.

The factory PCM has two methods of self-defense. If it sees too little fuel, then it adds a lot of fuel via trims and pulls spark timing. If it sees too much fuel, then it removes fuel via trims and pulls spark timing. These are common strategies inside modern factory PCMs. Massaging the factory O2 sensor signal lets us add a bit more fuel than it would typically want. Getting the fuel trims inline is how you keep it happy.

What makes your factory PCM extra special is what you can do with the spark timing. Once it's defenses are down, you can add timing advance. Most stock PCMs absolutely HATE this! They ping, buck, kick CELs, and generally throw a temper tantrum. Not you guys. I just want you to know how lucky you actually are. Having this advantage is not to be abused, chiefly because of fuel quality.

The existing map as of 2/10/14 has timing added at cruise AND in VTEC. Timing is removed at low rpm under boost. Finding this was a matter of giving the stock PCM what it wanted instead of "telling it what to do". The stock PCM doesn't learn around what our piggyback layout does for spark timing. That's the double-edged sword. Add too much timing in the wrong spot and you can get some nasty fuel ping that stays there. Take away too much timing, and you kill performance.

The ECU doesn't adjust around the timing adjustments. Trust me, this is very strange to type and explain. I don't really know why it is "dumb" to timing adjustments and picky about fueling, but that's the boat we're in!

 

Any Plans on a more advance lessons?

BTW How the heck do you set a map copied as A to a B map? Manual has no info on this...

 

Its been a while since i messed with it, but i think its just upload from unit to computer, the A map, switch to B map, and download it back.

You're using an SMTn your turbo build?

 

No I bought used sprintex of a user here civiccrx91 I think.

Thanks I'll try that, when ever I try to switch to B map it just stays on A though. I can see my saved maps Are flagged as A maps too. Kinda goofy, I'll keep trying.