How To make GE8 Faster
"Now making 205 horsepower and 174 lb-ft, the 2.4-liter four-cylinder pulled the Si to a slower-than-expected 6.5-second 0-to-60 time and a 15.1-second quarter-mile. We’ve seen a 2012 Honda Civic Si sedan do these deeds in as little as 6.1 seconds and 14.7 seconds and believe the 2014 is capable of quicker times. "
Got it! Using the Civic Si as a benchmark. Thanks!
Got it! Using the Civic Si as a benchmark. Thanks!
Also, the Type R is coming to the US at the end of this year; Honda probably wanted to make the hp spread larger (SI=207hp, Type R=280hp). To justify spending an extra ~$15k for the Type R.
You can't accurately compare a FIT to a Civic. Enjoy the FIT for what it is. I has potential to be a fun little car.
Don't know why Honda doesn't use their 240 HP 2L engine (S2000) in the SI version of cars. If I was running Honda, I would be putting it in Civic SIs. Put the 1.5L version of this engine in a Fit SI.
LOL @ their magically being a 1.5l version too.
the Fit today cannot easily do what they should have done with upper 200 hp engines because it won't fit; a total chassis redesign is required.Restart is now necessary and with the takata airbag problem the money likel isn't there.
Honda used to be the small car performance king but apparently the product engineers were chosen as wimpy enviros, a death knell that must have Sochiro spining 9500 in his grave.
The handwriting was on the wall when Honda refused to listen to the faithful that required a suitable replacement for the CRX in the CRZ. alas, it failed to happen. they have to give away CRZ's. Its a joke as replacement for the CRX. Had it been a 200 hp hybrid CRZ, aka Porsche 918 for the honda market they would be working 24/7 and still behind.
. If honda had produced a 200 hp CRZ they would own the hybrid vehicle market but envirowimpys couldn't see that in spite of thousands of contacts from the faithful.
if toyota produces a prius c based on the mazda prius c honda will seal their fall behind not only toyota but nissan as well. maybe even subaru.
lead, follow, or get out of the way.
I did this the other day: You could adjust your clutch pedal. Of course how much is on you. On my car several inches of the pedal travel was dead space. So I adjusted the pedal travel a couple inches so that there is still a little bit of disengagement, but now the time to depress and release the pedal has been reduced quite a bit and the engagement zone is in the middle of the new travel instead of the top.
Its gonna be tough to make the fit a sports car, but its not terribly hard for it to be as fun!
Its gonna be tough to make the fit a sports car, but its not terribly hard for it to be as fun!
Children who don't own car service manuals I suppose lol.
If you notice on the fit with stock clutch travel I wear size 11 and I had to float my heel to engage the clutch properly. I also noticed that about half the travel was dead space. As in you could put the clutch in half as far and it will still shift.
Remove the knee height panel under the dash as it just gets in the way.
To adjust ther pedal itself just undo the locknut at the master cylinder and rotate the shaft. You may have to press the pedal in to make it easy to continue screwing. Then retightened it.
Next you have to adjust the cruise control and engine starter lockout switches to match the adjusted position. This means you will have to unclip them from their electrical connections. Then loosen their locknuts and rotate them till they are in the correct position and retightened the nut and reattach the electrical connections. You will end up extending the cruise control lockout so that you can use it still and shortening how far the starter lockout is sticking past its mount slightly.
I can go into more detail if you would like later.
If you notice on the fit with stock clutch travel I wear size 11 and I had to float my heel to engage the clutch properly. I also noticed that about half the travel was dead space. As in you could put the clutch in half as far and it will still shift.
Remove the knee height panel under the dash as it just gets in the way.
To adjust ther pedal itself just undo the locknut at the master cylinder and rotate the shaft. You may have to press the pedal in to make it easy to continue screwing. Then retightened it.
Next you have to adjust the cruise control and engine starter lockout switches to match the adjusted position. This means you will have to unclip them from their electrical connections. Then loosen their locknuts and rotate them till they are in the correct position and retightened the nut and reattach the electrical connections. You will end up extending the cruise control lockout so that you can use it still and shortening how far the starter lockout is sticking past its mount slightly.
I can go into more detail if you would like later.
Last edited by rhop; Feb 6, 2015 at 10:10 AM.
Children who don't own car service manuals I suppose lol.
If you notice on the fit with stock clutch travel I wear size 11 and I had to float my heel to engage the clutch properly. I also noticed that about half the travel was dead space. As in you could put the clutch in half as far and it will still shift.
Remove the knee height panel under the dash as it just gets in the way.
To adjust ther pedal itself just undo the locknut at the master cylinder and rotate the shaft. You may have to press the pedal in to make it easy to continue screwing. Then retightened it.
Next you have to adjust the cruise control and engine starter lockout switches to match the adjusted position. This means you will have to unclip them from their electrical connections. Then loosen their locknuts and rotate them till they are in the correct position and retightened the nut and reattach the electrical connections. You will end up extending the cruise control lockout so that you can use it still and shortening how far the starter lockout is sticking past its mount slightly.
I can go into more detail if you would like later.
If you notice on the fit with stock clutch travel I wear size 11 and I had to float my heel to engage the clutch properly. I also noticed that about half the travel was dead space. As in you could put the clutch in half as far and it will still shift.
Remove the knee height panel under the dash as it just gets in the way.
To adjust ther pedal itself just undo the locknut at the master cylinder and rotate the shaft. You may have to press the pedal in to make it easy to continue screwing. Then retightened it.
Next you have to adjust the cruise control and engine starter lockout switches to match the adjusted position. This means you will have to unclip them from their electrical connections. Then loosen their locknuts and rotate them till they are in the correct position and retightened the nut and reattach the electrical connections. You will end up extending the cruise control lockout so that you can use it still and shortening how far the starter lockout is sticking past its mount slightly.
I can go into more detail if you would like later.
Update.
1) Intake (already done)[HPS 27-102P Short Ram Air Intake Kit], -1.4 secs 5-60 MPH
2) Exhaust (quiet): installed the Tanabe T70143A Medalion Touring Cat-Back Exhaust System for Honda Fit.
3) Plugs (IK22, indexed), estimate -.1 sec <- installing on Monday
4) Jet Performance MAF sensor
JET Performance#561-69133
estimate - ?
5) JET Performance 67021 - JET V-Force Plus
estimate - ?
6) Spare, Back Seats, 1/4 gas [lighten car] estimate -.2 sec (more time take off, harder it gets)
7) Lightweight rims and tires, -.3 sec
..
Supercharger - 1 sec
Anyone have any more ideas?
1) Intake (already done)[HPS 27-102P Short Ram Air Intake Kit], -1.4 secs 5-60 MPH
2) Exhaust (quiet): installed the Tanabe T70143A Medalion Touring Cat-Back Exhaust System for Honda Fit.
3) Plugs (IK22, indexed), estimate -.1 sec <- installing on Monday
4) Jet Performance MAF sensor
JET Performance#561-69133
estimate - ?
5) JET Performance 67021 - JET V-Force Plus
estimate - ?
6) Spare, Back Seats, 1/4 gas [lighten car] estimate -.2 sec (more time take off, harder it gets)
7) Lightweight rims and tires, -.3 sec
..
Supercharger - 1 sec
Anyone have any more ideas?
Last edited by yovtecjustkickedin; Feb 16, 2015 at 07:58 PM. Reason: correction
Pull out wallet, spend 5/8 the price of another Fit and build up the engine. If you like natural aspiration, as I do, this is your course of action. Or spend even more and K swap it. Bolt-ons are not going to make the car faster really without having your ECU reflashed as the stock ECU will over time more than likely negate the gains. Hell even the route I'm going, I haven't a clue how much faster the car is going to be, but I'm under no illusion that I'm going to be smacking shit around, but I'm sure hoping I feel and see an improvement in time when out on whatever circuit.
So if your ECU supports it, look at KTuner's product and then go from there.
So if your ECU supports it, look at KTuner's product and then go from there.
Yep, gonna need to look at the K-tuner at some point. What about this part?
JET Performance 67021 - JET V-Force Plus
The V-Force Plus optimizes ignition advance and fuel maps for maximum horsepower & drivability.
Features
Improved Performance
Increased Horsepower & Torque
Monitoring Capabilities
Modified Ignition Curve
Can't find it now but there was a dude that got 150 WHP on his GE Fit. (Why do I have so much trouble finding anything on this site!?) Believe he got there doing a lot of head work among other things. Got this much HP and only had to rev to 7k RPM. Think this guy is from Singapore or similar. Don't have that much money (or time) to do that and if I did, would probably buy a STI or related and use all that time and effort I saved myself and go on a road trip.
Funds are limited so reckon going to Max bolt-ons. Will be interesting to see how much HP I get. Think 115 WHP is about the most I can expect. Don't plan on messing with exhaust stuff again though, too loud.
JET Performance 67021 - JET V-Force Plus
The V-Force Plus optimizes ignition advance and fuel maps for maximum horsepower & drivability.
Features
Improved Performance
Increased Horsepower & Torque
Monitoring Capabilities
Modified Ignition Curve
Can't find it now but there was a dude that got 150 WHP on his GE Fit. (Why do I have so much trouble finding anything on this site!?) Believe he got there doing a lot of head work among other things. Got this much HP and only had to rev to 7k RPM. Think this guy is from Singapore or similar. Don't have that much money (or time) to do that and if I did, would probably buy a STI or related and use all that time and effort I saved myself and go on a road trip.

Funds are limited so reckon going to Max bolt-ons. Will be interesting to see how much HP I get. Think 115 WHP is about the most I can expect. Don't plan on messing with exhaust stuff again though, too loud.
Clutch Pedal Adjusting Bolt
it seems overly complicated on the fit, but it's worth it... you get rid of all the extra travel at the bottom of the pedal...
i like pictures:
Clutch Pedal Adjusting Bolt
it seems overly complicated on the fit, but it's worth it... you get rid of all the extra travel at the bottom of the pedal...
Clutch Pedal Adjusting Bolt
it seems overly complicated on the fit, but it's worth it... you get rid of all the extra travel at the bottom of the pedal...
What size tires are you you using and what brand? Want to look up it's weight. I may have another 'trick' that I use with all my cars in mind.
Figure staying with stock rims. Might make the car a Spec B racer. Looked into these rims and they are 15x7 which is an Odd Ball Size for trying to buy regular tires to fit it. Lots of racing tires fit this rim size though.
Thinking these will be my next tires:
185/55R16
Kumho Ecsta PA31
Race and don't want expensive tires as I wear them out in 20k miles.
Figure on buying these within a month.
Thinking these will be my next tires:
185/55R16
Kumho Ecsta PA31
Race and don't want expensive tires as I wear them out in 20k miles.
Figure on buying these within a month.
Figure staying with stock rims. Might make the car a Spec B racer. Looked into these rims and they are 15x7 which is an Odd Ball Size for trying to buy regular tires to fit it. Lots of racing tires fit this rim size though.
Thinking these will be my next tires:
185/55R16
Kumho Ecsta PA31
Race and don't want expensive tires as I wear them out in 20k miles.
Figure on buying these within a month.
Thinking these will be my next tires:
185/55R16
Kumho Ecsta PA31
Race and don't want expensive tires as I wear them out in 20k miles.
Figure on buying these within a month.
if your aim is performance on a budget 185/55x16 tires on 16x7 rims is the ticket if you can find an economic choice ot tires. I'd think 195/50x16 tires on 6 or 7 " rims is a cgood choice..
be careful that whatever you choose must not be heavier or bigger in diameter than what you have, especially heavier. check tirerack specs to compare the tire diameter and weight with what you now have.
if your aim is performance on a budget 185/55x16 tires on 16x7 rims is the ticket if you can find an economic choice ot tires. I'd think 195/50x16 tires on 6 or 7 " rims is a cgood choice..
if your aim is performance on a budget 185/55x16 tires on 16x7 rims is the ticket if you can find an economic choice ot tires. I'd think 195/50x16 tires on 6 or 7 " rims is a cgood choice..
Thanks for the info. Am considering..
I suggest header + high flow cat.
Last edited by hotkey; Feb 20, 2015 at 01:20 AM.



