I'm going to document my custom stereo install project on this thread. Here's the plan... Install Pioneer Avic-Z130bt head unit and custom two subwoofer enclosure. I'm leaving the stock speakers in the doors and dash (sport tweeters) in for now because the speakers sound good enough and I spent a bunch of change on the z130b h/u.

Parts Price
Sound Ordnance™ M-2100 $69.99
Pioneer TS-SW841D x2 $144.38
Pioneer Avic-Z130bt $840.00
dash kit and wire harnesses $35.99
PAC swi-ps $38.65
amp wiring kit 10 ga $15
TOTAL $ 1126

I'm going to build a sub box and mount it on the cargo cover brackets in the rear of the vehicle. The Sound Ordnance M-2100 is a 2x75W RMS amp from Crutchfield (house brand), which will be mounted underneath the shelf between the two subs.



PAC SWI-PS:
I installed this steering wheel control interface. There are a couple of things to note:
1. Pin 5 (white wire from factory harness) must be grounded, as instructions indicate.
2. Follow instructions as indicated for Honda Fit '09-'10. Insert a 560 ohm resistor between the SWI-PS second purple wire and the white wire. Program PAC SWI-PS using program #9.

 

Did you finish your sub box? I'm gonna install my 8W7 soon and I just wanted to get ideas on building a box that's integrated into the rear passenger corner. I don't want to give up much space in the trunk area.

 

Here's some pics of the sub woofer enclosure I built to fit on the cargo cover brackets. It's not permanently attached so it can be removed easily if i need the full height are need to carry larger items. I used bungee cords attached to the cargo area hooks so it won't fly off if I ever roll the vehicle. With the 150W Sound Ordnance amp powering the two subs, my system thumps really good. The curvature of the back hatch area seems to send the sound waves towards the front well enough, but probably not as good as if the speakers where pointed straight at the rear door. The Avic Z130BT crossover and sub level controls are quite nice and easy to adjust while driving. The hole in the sub box is to access the level controls on the amp. I forgot to get pics of the amp installed in the box, so I'll post them when I get the chance.

Dimensions on the box are roughly 5.5" tall by 11" deep by ~45-46" wide. Each speaker has about .39 cu ft taking into account the volume of the speaker itself (Pioneer recommended 0.40 cu ft).












Detail of rail piece that mounts on cargo cover mounts

 

Sweet, that's a nice job you did, very professional looking box. I'm still thinking about fiberglassing a box in the rear corner of the car. Space is a premium for me. Thanks for the pics!

 

man that looks perfect! i wish i would have done something like that, i just got a box =(

 

Did you have any problems wiring the Avic's harness to the the Metra harness? Another forum member had said that the "Dimmer" and "Illumination" wires were switched in the Metra harness. I plan to install my Z130BT this weekend. Thanks!

 

Metra harness, is that the harness that plugs into the factory wires? I hooked up the dimmer wire (Metra harness orange/white) to the red wire in the factory harness. The Honda wire diagram shows the grey wire is the illumination wire and that matches the orange wire in the Metra harness, but doesn't indicate what the grey wire is for. The display on the Avic is full brightness with the daytime driving lights on, and when the headlights are on and the dash dimmer switch is at full brightness. When I turn the dash dimmer switch down a couple of levels the display on the Avic dims but there seems to be only two light levels on the Avic. It works for my needs. The Avic display has a dark background in the audio mode, and when the vehicle lights are on the map switches to night mode. So it's not to bright for night driving.

I'll pull my nav unit tomorrow and check how it's wired. I need to figure out a better way to run the gps antenna lead. I saw that somebody had mounted the gps antenna on the windshield above the mirror. This doesn't seem to work as the gps signal strength dropped considerably when the antenna pod was upside down. BTW It takes awhile for the avic to do it's gps 3D calibration routine; I've driven ~2000 miles since i installed it and its still not completed.

If you haven't found it yet, here's the youtube video that show's you how to bypass the Avic parking brake switch.

Vehicle radio harness info:
Vehicle speed sensor (VSS): pin 15 (blue wire)
Factory steering wheel control: pin 16 (pink)
Factory steering wheel ground: pin 5 (white)

 

The Metra harness connects to the Avic harness and then you plug the Metra into the car's wiring harness. I guess you connected the Avic's harness directly into the car's harness. The advantage of using the Metra is you can do all the wiring outside of the car and then bring the 2 connected harness to the car and just plug it into the car's harness. Just makes it simpler to work with.

 

I used the Metra harness, I just didn't recognize the brand name.

 

Thanks for all the info. I tried pulling the wire to do the bypass but I couldn't get it to come out. I was scared I may break it so I just gave up.

 

This is from the car's harness, right?

 

Yes, that's correct.

 

One last question, where is the reverse wire? (so the back up camera will come on when I shift into reverse.) Thanks!

 

I used the hot wire for reverse indicator lamp (green wire) as my signal wire for the backup camera and also to power the backup cam. I ran the camera leads from the rear hatch door through that rubber wire tube into the rear side panel. Serious PITA to get an RCA plug through that rubber tube but it is possible. There's no slack in the factory wire bundle and sharp edges so be careful. The camera and switching signal for the headunit works fine the way I wired it.

I didn't even try to locate reverse switch wire but here's the info I have if you want to tap the wire coming out of the transmission: The wire diagram shows a two pole connector on the transmission housing with a yellow wire (battery side) and a green/white wire. There's a splice (probably in the wire bundle for the transmission) where the green/white becomes solid green. This applies to both the M/T and A/T.

 

You've been a lot of help, I really appreciate it. How did you attach the camera to the car? Did you drill a hole to thread the wires into the car? I'm concerned about someone stealing the camera so I'd like to find a secure way of attaching it.

 

I used this Absolute-CAM900B camera.

This license plate cam has recessed holes for hex nuts so you have to remove the rear hatch plastic panel and insert the bolts through from the inside. There's no way to remove it from the outside the vehicle. It looks great on the car and you can hardly tell there's a camera. A bonus feature of this cam is the infrared LEDS so it works great in the dark. It does wash out in bright sunlight when the sun is directly behind the car.

I drilled a hole (oh, my new car!) from the inside of the rear panel, coming out under the area where the door handle is located. That way its sheltered from the rain and road spray. I also used a grommet and duct tape to cover the hole so water can't get in.

 

Awesome, thanks for your help. It'll make my install much easier now!

 

Do you remember what pin number the reverse indicator lamp is? That's the only thing I have left to connect to my harness. Thanks!

 

I used the hot wire at the backup light in the rear quarter panel as my camera switch and as the power line for the camera. The hot wire is green.

 

Ok, that's pretty smart of you. I guess the reverse light always come on when you go in reverse

I'll probably run a long wire from my harness back there and tap into that wire too. Hopefully that will make my Avic switch to the rear camera whenever I go into reverse. Thanks again!