I just noticed my one front wheel isn't centred in the wheel well, it's closer to the firewall, the other side is normal.
I have been advised recently that the lower control arm needs replacing, I'm assuming the bushings are shot, would that cause the wheel to do this?
Going over bigger bumps and speed bumps it also makes a squeaking noise on that side.

 

I think you've come to the correct conclusion on your own. If the control arm isn't in a fixed position it's free to move around. Which is also very dangerous to drive.

 

It seems it's not too expensive to get the front control arm, how difficult is it to replace?
I'm assuming that balljoint is going be a real pain to get free and probably the worst part of the job.

 

Be sure to get a control arm thats already got a ball joint (preferably an unservicable one, no zirk fitting, that's already greased if you're leery of over-greasing)!!
Getting the old one out is the work of either a specific squeezer tool, or a mallet, the biggest pain as you mentioned.

The control arm does need to be preloaded before torquing! So you tighten it to the chassis a bit then get a jack and left the control arm until the car just barely starts to raise off the nearest jackstand. Honda recommends hardware to be replaced, like those two bolts holding the bottom of the coilover in place. Personally I opted not to as my car was low mileage and the bolts looked good, just added some ptfe paste sealant to the threads. It's strong stuff and I have more confidence in it than locktite.

EDIT: besides that, there's no tricks to it. No ridiculously long through-bolt entrapped by sheet metal, or specialty socket stuff.

 

Thanks for the tips, what method did you use to get your ball joint off and how difficult was it?
You can also preload the control arm by putting the vehicle back on it's 4 wheels and then torquing it all up?

 

The technique shown in the video below is clever, even if dropping the vehicle weight on the levering device doesn't pop the joint it at least puts some nice solid and constant pressure on the ball joint whilst you hit it with a hammer, which is supremely handy if you are doing the job alone.

 

What I'd recommend is loosening the castle nut on the ball joint just enough to allow a millimeter or two of vertical movement, then giving it a wack if needed. The preload of the control arm mounts and pressure from the spring are also pushing the control arm down.
This helps prevent damage to the hole it goes through.

Honestly I dont remember if I needed anything. But I also have a small balljoint clamp/press tool that was OEM for an old chevy (don't buy or rent one from a local store, they're total junk and you'd be better off with a hammer and large flat head screwdriver). Pickle forks are also a messed up joke.

As for using vehicle weight to preload, it sounds like an unnecessary pain in the butt. You'd have to have the wheel mounted and work around it.

 

I don't think the spring tension is in the equation as they are locked in the strut and the control arm preload wont be doing a whole lot with the arm off the ground .

What/how do you use the screwdriver in the process?
The guys in the video using the weight of the vehicle to pop the ball did it with the wheel off, they jacked it in the axle stub housing area with a wedge next the ball and that created the same effect as using a press/separator tool

 

So luckily I didn't get to buying and replacing the lower control arm, I did first jack it up and check I could loosen the bolts so i wouldn't have drama there.
Anyway a hefty knock wouldn't budge the ball joint and without a separator I could see a hell job so I decided to have the arm fitted by someone.
This was also bugging me - I couldn't see how the wheel could move backwards so much just from a worn bushings, Red05 seemed to think it was a foregone conclusion which almost got me but it didn't seem right.

Anyways the wheel and tyre fitment place up the road said they could fit the arm if I supplied it and I asked if they could have a quick look and check that it was in fact the arm that was toast..
Turns out the previous owner of the vehicle had hit a pavement or pothole and shifted the suspension backward, they put it on the alignment machine and loosened the suspension up and used a hydraulic ram to push it forward again.

They got it within the spec for a Fit but the wheel still isn't in the center of the wheel well, they convinced me that was ok and despite smelling bs I left with it like that.
Turns out on full lock on that side the tyre just touchs the firewall fender liner, on the other side there's a good finger space at full lock.

 

So I'm assuming the wheel should be centered pretty much in the middle of the wheel well, can anyone confirm that by looking at their front wheels?