throttle body issue?
I'd recommend checking fluid levels and inspecting/wiping out the throttle body if it's gooped. Can check and see if its valve has full range of motion, or if it makes any strange noises while moved.
Not sure about the Fit, but on my '06 Nissan you can't manually move the TB butterfly with your fingers as you clean it. Doing so screws up its calibration and a re-calibration is required (which can be done in your driveway with instruction). Just wanted to mention this in case the Fit is similarly affected.
If you can't afford the work, man, cancel it. Go on facebook market and see if you can find a "free" group. theres local folks who like helping people just cuz. You can post up your issue and explain. I've helped a couple families that way.. typically ask them to get a professional diagnosis if they haven't already (preferably from a dealership).
A valve adjustment is an unlikely solution for a car intermittently unable to exceed 2k rpm. intake/exhaust valves are largely a mechanical system, and intermittent faults are often electrical. thats a super broad stroke but a pretty solid statement.
The valve mentioned earlier on in this thread was supposed to be the throttle plate within the throttle body, also referred to as a butterfly valve by some. its easy to check and requires very little work. because of the thread title it seemed worth checking as a possible solution.
We can go through stuff and see if we can figure it out. feel free to send me a message.
A valve adjustment is an unlikely solution for a car intermittently unable to exceed 2k rpm. intake/exhaust valves are largely a mechanical system, and intermittent faults are often electrical. thats a super broad stroke but a pretty solid statement.
The valve mentioned earlier on in this thread was supposed to be the throttle plate within the throttle body, also referred to as a butterfly valve by some. its easy to check and requires very little work. because of the thread title it seemed worth checking as a possible solution.
We can go through stuff and see if we can figure it out. feel free to send me a message.
If you can't afford the work, man, cancel it. Go on facebook market and see if you can find a "free" group. theres local folks who like helping people just cuz. You can post up your issue and explain. I've helped a couple families that way.. typically ask them to get a professional diagnosis if they haven't already (preferably from a dealership).
A valve adjustment is an unlikely solution for a car intermittently unable to exceed 2k rpm. intake/exhaust valves are largely a mechanical system, and intermittent faults are often electrical. thats a super broad stroke but a pretty solid statement.
The valve mentioned earlier on in this thread was supposed to be the throttle plate within the throttle body, also referred to as a butterfly valve by some. its easy to check and requires very little work. because of the thread title it seemed worth checking as a possible solution.
We can go through stuff and see if we can figure it out. feel free to send me a message.
A valve adjustment is an unlikely solution for a car intermittently unable to exceed 2k rpm. intake/exhaust valves are largely a mechanical system, and intermittent faults are often electrical. thats a super broad stroke but a pretty solid statement.
The valve mentioned earlier on in this thread was supposed to be the throttle plate within the throttle body, also referred to as a butterfly valve by some. its easy to check and requires very little work. because of the thread title it seemed worth checking as a possible solution.
We can go through stuff and see if we can figure it out. feel free to send me a message.
I may still cancel the valve lash adjustment and cleaning anyway. But i.noy sure if your rec still stands now that you know you aren't replying to the OP who was having more internment issues.
My car regulaly idles rough at stop lights. I also actually took off and cleaned the throttle body, to no avail. When I did a reset, following the instructions to hold the RPMs at 3000 til the fan comes in, would result in them dropping abruptly, themselves, back down to around around 700-800, while still pressing down on the pedal. Don't know what causes something like that.
In any case, I don't know if this adjustment will actually do much more than "be good for my car". I don't even know if $800 is reasonable for the work, since it's possible I could do it myself with the right tools, in a few hours.i don't have a garage and a lot of the tools necessary. So I was happy to pay someone to do the work IF it NEEDS to be done..but I am getting conflicting information from.friends as to whether an engine like mine would actually need an adjustment/cleaning at only 60k mi, and whether it should cost as much. Also, whether it would actually fix my "jumpy"idle issue. There seems to be a decent chance I'll have to take it to get the coil pack and fuel injectors replaced anyway, as they are known to be bad in the 2015 Fits and are now being covered by and extended warranty/recall.
So yeah, if my car does need this work and it will fix it's I'm happy (well not *too* happy) to have the cleaning/adjustment done. I just don't want to drop $800+ on a job that the mechanic may simply be doing as a way to take a shot at making my car better...even if he's convinced that doing so would "be good to do anyway". I didn't feel comfortable in knowing they were confident it would fix my car for sure. And I don't know if the they bothered to look into the injectors/coil pack s they said. It was "unlikely" due to no check engine light being on..I have confirmed from a friend with the same year Fit that hers was having the same issue, did not have the light come on, and got it fixed for free due to the recall. When I called the mechanic to tell them, they didn't seem concerned and sounded like they didn't want me telling them how to do their job or something.. egos
Sooo, for anyone who may still be checking in here, I have got some really screwy updates and am kind of freaking TF out and getting extremely frustrating...
After over three weeks of having my car at the Honda dealership, this is what has been going on.
- First, they tried to tell me I needed to have my valve ports cleaned. They suspected this would "fix" my car. $850 and a week later, they said it was "running fine" and I should come pick it up. Though I had suspected the car wasn't fixed, I paid my bill and started to leave in my car. Within minutes, the problem was noticeably still there. I took it back and they hooked it up to the computer, which showed cylinder 1 misfiring often.
They finally, at this point, decided they could go ahead and change the fuel injectors (known to go bad). But that STILL didn't fix the problem. Since then they have:
- replaced the cylinder 1 ignition coil with a "known working" one., replaced the spark plugs, did a computer relearn (for the idling/timing), adjusted the valve lashes (again), and probably a dozen other things that I cannot recall.
The last couple of tests they performed (I think, repeatedly) were a coolant leak down and compression test. Apparently, they have now found a leaky head gasket. They want to charge me $3300 to replace it, telling me they think it is what is causing my rough/low idle. Now, I have no idea what to think. I am just praying to god my extended, powertrain warranty is going to cover it.
There are a few things I am confused about: how could I have had a blown head gasket when my car has never overheated, shown white smoke from the exhaust, or experienced power loss? I have never heard of a head gasket going out in a car with 67k mi, that has never been driven with low coolant and never overheated. And how is that related to a car that drives normally, with the exception of idling low when being stopped. It just seems like a bit of a stretch to me.
If my warranty doesn't cover the gasket replacement, and it actually needs it, I am tempted to bring it somewhere else for another opinion. These people have had my car for over three weeks. They have already told me my car was fixed when it wasn't. The mechanic was out for half the time my car has been in the shop, so it's been just sitting there half the time. This who situation is a complete mess.
After over three weeks of having my car at the Honda dealership, this is what has been going on.
- First, they tried to tell me I needed to have my valve ports cleaned. They suspected this would "fix" my car. $850 and a week later, they said it was "running fine" and I should come pick it up. Though I had suspected the car wasn't fixed, I paid my bill and started to leave in my car. Within minutes, the problem was noticeably still there. I took it back and they hooked it up to the computer, which showed cylinder 1 misfiring often.
They finally, at this point, decided they could go ahead and change the fuel injectors (known to go bad). But that STILL didn't fix the problem. Since then they have:
- replaced the cylinder 1 ignition coil with a "known working" one., replaced the spark plugs, did a computer relearn (for the idling/timing), adjusted the valve lashes (again), and probably a dozen other things that I cannot recall.
The last couple of tests they performed (I think, repeatedly) were a coolant leak down and compression test. Apparently, they have now found a leaky head gasket. They want to charge me $3300 to replace it, telling me they think it is what is causing my rough/low idle. Now, I have no idea what to think. I am just praying to god my extended, powertrain warranty is going to cover it.
There are a few things I am confused about: how could I have had a blown head gasket when my car has never overheated, shown white smoke from the exhaust, or experienced power loss? I have never heard of a head gasket going out in a car with 67k mi, that has never been driven with low coolant and never overheated. And how is that related to a car that drives normally, with the exception of idling low when being stopped. It just seems like a bit of a stretch to me.
If my warranty doesn't cover the gasket replacement, and it actually needs it, I am tempted to bring it somewhere else for another opinion. These people have had my car for over three weeks. They have already told me my car was fixed when it wasn't. The mechanic was out for half the time my car has been in the shop, so it's been just sitting there half the time. This who situation is a complete mess.
I've been chasing a rough idle for our tacoma for.. like 3 years, man. Much more noticable in drive while stopped, it vibrates quite a bit..
I've been saying for a year I'm just gonna pull the cylinder head and timing cover and replace the torque converter while I'm at it. bleh.
If you've got a misfire spark plugs should be checked and torqued.
maybe consider having a smoke test done on the intake/vacuum lines. Maybe that's what I should do..
How bad is the idle? What are the jerks like? Has it ever been in an accident?
I've been saying for a year I'm just gonna pull the cylinder head and timing cover and replace the torque converter while I'm at it. bleh.
If you've got a misfire spark plugs should be checked and torqued.
maybe consider having a smoke test done on the intake/vacuum lines. Maybe that's what I should do..
How bad is the idle? What are the jerks like? Has it ever been in an accident?
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