@Celebrinda Wheels/suspension aren't so bad to diagnose. Is the fault affected by speed? Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel?
Is there a chance you have a bent wheel? (it happens. former tire guy turned mechanic turned housewife here)

So uh, yeah, the above. If you were working on it yourself I'd say lift the offending wheel and start shaking. Put it on jack stands, put the floor jack under the tire, and compress suspension. Shake the linkages now and then as you raise it, until suspension is fully compressed.

A bent wheel can be diagnosed at a tire shop via a balancer. When it gets up to speed it has a hop, and they'll slap a fuckton of weights on it.

Depending on where you got your tires, you may get free rebalances. That'd be a cash saver.

​​​​​​​That's pretty much all I got unless your fault has potential to be unrelated to the wheel in question

 

Pretty sure it’s not tire/wheel issue. Noise & vibration is not based on tire speed. More like what a manual tranny would feel like if it was dry. I did put it on jack stands, pushed/pulled, with no shake anywhere. Replaced wheel bearing cause thought it might have dried out. Vibration is felt in steering wheel too.

 

P/S. I use to live in Griffin,GA.

 

Let's see... If you feel like it's an issue with the tranny.. Have you tried putting it in drive while on stands?
My fiance's escape actually has a trans issue. I found light residue around the cv shaft, so I replaced the seal but. It leaks between the seal and the brand new shaft. And I can tell it's spinning out of round slightly.

Also, hell, are you still in GA? I'm in Fayetteville! By the waterfall that SAYS "WATERFALL" in gold letters. the truetts luau is just.. another chick fil a. Damn good. but deceptive. Like how taco mac is just another ******* buffalo wildwings.

ANYWAYS.
That trick of compressing suspension with a floor jack and re-inspecting has resolved quite a few tricky situations for me. As for your ATF level, we'll have to wait for someone with an automatic to show up. I'd expect dodgy shifting if your fluid level was the issue -- but only cuz that's what I've observed most.

Edit: Also, I have no idea what a dry manual feels like, unfortunately.

If you're confident it's a fluid issue, you can top it up -- use honda fluid or redline. Prolly redline D4, but you'd have to check their site. Their shit smooths out transmissions quite nicely. There may be other premium brands, but that's the one I know of and have used. My bike has a wet clutch, and their oil didn't let it slip. fixed a surge issue on my old man's tacoma. No one else has wanted to foot the bill for it though.

 

I’m not in GA anymore. Live in Omaha, NE. now. I will check CV today, top off tranny with Honda ATF-Z1 fluid, and will compress suspension. Thanks for the help, I’ll let you know what I find out.

 

Right on. To expand on my remarks re: trans fluid, since automatics use fluid to engage and change gears, like a mouse through a maze, I'd expect surging/delayed, then rapid acceleration if the fluid was off enough to cause any other faults -- dodgy shifting between gears like bouncing back and forth between 3 & 4 at 45, 50 mph (just an example from past fluid issues I've serviced). I hope all's well in OK, and that you make some progress in identification.

Anti-roll bar end-links are a common rattle issue/noise complaint. I've serviced cars wherein play existed only between zero and complete compression of related suspension. It only had slack while travelling over road irregularities.And that was amplified when turning shifted vehicle weight.

Another consideration is a failed strut. Modern struts have multiple valves to handle compression and can fail internally for just small bumps/road irregularities. Doesn't even have to leak externally.
A greasy or (presumably) crumbly strut top mount can also cause slippage of said mount when a bump is hit.

While all these faults would present with road irregularities, an out of balance wheel could also, potentially, trigger them or at least cause premature failure. It's possible that you're experiencing collateral wear damage from a resolved fault you didn't even own the car for.

Anyways, just some extra thoughts to aid yuh in troubleshooting. Good luck, brave warrior!!

 

Any history on the shaky wheel? Anything happen to the car just before the wheel started shaking?
Here are some suggestions of things to try
- You can try following the Fit with a second car to the left side of the Fit ,while watching the LF wheel assembly as it's being driven.
- Raise the LF of the car and support it with a jack stand. Grab the axle and try to move it up and down, front to back, looking for any looseness. Grab the tire and try to move the front of the tire inward and then outwards, looking for any movement.
- When the axle was replaced, was the axle nut torqued to the correct torque and then peened over to keep it from loosening up?
- Try moving the left rear tire to the front, and front to rearr. See if the shaking goes away or moves to the LR.

When you've tried these things report back with your results.

 

There is nothing wrong with wheel or tire. Had both front checked on balance machine. This vibration has a mechanical “gear” drone to it. This drone increases with speed, and with intensity when turning right & disappears when turning left. It also increases when moderately or high braking. I am sure this is something to do with rotation of metal parts. I’ve also replaced the drivers side front wheel bearing. I’ve never had a CV joint go out. So I don’t know if that could make the mechanical drone like I hear & feel. Oh, the vibration is felt in drivers floor & steering wheel. I’ve taken the wheel off, cycled the suspension, no dripping, wiggles or thunks. Brake caliper is free with no warpage or squeeks. Topped off tranny fluid with Honda ATF-Z1. No improvement.

Thanks for all the advice. I take each advice and work through it. Keep the advice coming.

 

Oh, and I have no odd shifting, lag, or rev issues at speeds up to 90mph. It’s just the constant drone & vibration that has me weirded out.

 

Dang, I just read Chevy dans comment about the axle nut. I will check that tomorrow. Sounds possible.

 

What's an axle nut?

 

Well, to answer Mister Coffee, and axle nut is a nut that has a squishy rim called a peen, that holds the lug assembly onto the axle.

As for my dilemma…….. All the wheel bearing noise coming from the front drivers side, which I replaced that bearing, WASN’T the bad one. It was the front passenger side. Which is freaky. Cause the bearing noise increased when unloading weight on right side, by turning right! Good thing I have Monday off. I’ll get the bearing tomorrow & put it on Monday.

Thanks for all the advice. I’m a newer Fit owner, and although I don’t have a manual, I do have flappy paddles. I’ll check in now & again as I look to upgrade my Fit. I’ve done a few small things, replaced the antenna with a shark fin, storage space cover, and center console/arm rest. I want to put in cold air intake, but don’t want a cheap $60 kit, nor spend $400 on a kit. Any suggestions on that.


Opps wrong phot, stupid antenna still on.

 

What a satisfying thread. Excellent job, by the way. I'd meant to mention how opposing sides can interact but had trouble articulating the sentiment, so I left it out. Not too far back I had a similar issue with roll bar end links wherein the opposite side's components turned out to be the issue.

It also turned out to be a lesson in torque specifications. They called for a seemingly unreasonable torque. Instead of a sensible 14-20, they wanted like, 40. When you're using an allen key to keep the ball in socket-type joint from rotating during torque, that just seems like a mistake in the service manual.

But it wasn't. During compression, a ton of slack freed up. The high torque value was meant to offset that and keep the joint fastened when a bunch of free play was in the end-link/no/minimal load from sway bar. Without the high torque value, the end link knocked around and presented a noise in kind. Turning right compressed the left side and triggered the noise, and vis versa. It was the transition from sloppy free-play to carrying a substantial load that generated the knock.

Anyways. You did an impeccable job moving through diagnostics and considering all aspects of the presented fault. I'm thoroughly impressed

 

Oh, as for intake.. The only one that caught my eye was made by Zero1000. The ducting was such that it looked like it would enhance air velocity while increasing volume, and I could see that actually yielding a performance benefit. Plus the fit and finish seemed nice.

Other dudes here have K&N setups, or HPS. HPS is the fan favorite. I don't like K&N -- I've heard too many stories of oily MAFs, which K&N claims can't be their fault because only they have the technology to properly test the scenario.
Whatever you go with, I'd encourage mindfulness regarding tubing diameter. A wrong-sized intake pipe near the maf will throw off the ECM's AFR calculations. That diameter is a non-variable. Besides that, I'd humbly suggest getting 2 filter cones instead of the standard 1 that will come with your kit.

Better to clean and lubricate them off-vehicle so that they can have sufficient dry time and not goop up your MAF sensor. So run one, take it off and clean it. While it's drying, run the other. When it's done drying, store it in a bag til the next service. Same deal for serviceable shop vac filters