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eBay Bilstein B14 listing

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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 12:04 PM
  #1  
Bill Stein's Avatar
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eBay Bilstein B14 listing

I'm looking to replace/upgrade the suspension on my 2010 Honda Fit. It's past time for replacement and I wouldn't mind a little extra handling performance the kit promises. The only known reputable place I can seem to find the B14 kit is on tire rack but eBay has what appears to be a couple sellers that come in about $200-300 less.

There's a couple sellers but the slightly lower priced (kit and shipping) the part number 47-172401 isn't mentioned anywhere in the listing. The image looks exactly the same as the listing below it that has the part number included. Should I chance it and save some money on either of these options or should I just go with tire rack?

Also the listing mentions Tüv but I'm not familiar.

The two sellers on ebay
The two sellers on ebay
The seller who speaks not of the PN.
The seller who speaks not of the PN.
 
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 10:33 AM
  #2  
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You can get the same Bilstein kit cheaper via RockAuto before you attach the 5% discount.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...10922&jsn=1335

Also, "Tüv" loosely put is a certification/safety standard for vehicles and aftermarket products that meet or exceed OE quality for safety and/or performance.

A quick search on Tüv Inspections or Tüv Certifications can easily fill you (and other readers) in with a more honest and accurate answer.
 
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 03:15 PM
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Bill Stein's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Hootie
You can get the same Bilstein kit cheaper via RockAuto before you attach the 5% discount.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...10922&jsn=1335

Also, "Tüv" loosely put is a certification/safety standard for vehicles and aftermarket products that meet or exceed OE quality for safety and/or performance.

A quick search on Tüv Inspections or Tüv Certifications can easily fill you (and other readers) in with a more honest and accurate answer.
I am a frequent Rock Auto customer but it didn't show up under the Fit suspension parts for me as it was the first place I looked. It sure as heck showed up under your link though. Now about this 5% code...???
 
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 03:51 PM
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Search on the internet for "Rock Auto discount code" and you'll find one working.
 
Old Nov 25, 2024 | 09:29 AM
  #5  
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Thanks for the info guys!
 
Old Dec 8, 2024 | 11:46 AM
  #6  
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Well I ended up going with the RockAuto special. I'm not sure how I missed it but I just assumed it was a fully assembled coilover. Much to my surprise when I had to run to harbor freight to get some suicide sticks. Passenger side went well but everything on the driver side seemed much more corroded.

I guess in taking off the nut that holds the top hat in place I janked the threads. I wish I'd have noticed before I tried to install it on the new shock, before I stripped out the Allen, and before I had to use an impact to get the nut off of the stem. When it came off I realized I had mashed the threads on the new shock pretty bad. I may be able to hit the threads with a die, but the Allen is surely too rounded to actually hold the shock in place while I torque the nut on.

I'm out of ideas and I cannot seem to find this shock for sale unless it's part of the entire kit. Does anyone have one laying around? Lol





 
Old Dec 8, 2024 | 02:10 PM
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Thinking out loud here...

See if you can essentially double nut (maybe even nylon nut?) the end of those threads to hold the shaft in place.

Once you have that on, use your intended nut to fasten the upper spring perch and strut bearing.

Following that, adjust the lower spring collar to add preload on the spring and hat to try to stop the strut's shaft from moving.

If not... Maybe try to find your least favorite Torx or Hex socket, "love tap it" in place to see if it bite and holds to keep the shaft from moving?

Best of luck!
 
Old Dec 8, 2024 | 02:11 PM
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You can thread the nut on as far as possible by hand and then use a large vice grip to hold the shaft. A vice grip will obviously mangle the threads, but looking at your picture I think you can probably isolate the damage to the top section that is already messed up.

Some day in the future you might face some difficulty in removing the nut, but that's a problem for another day.

On the last car I replaced struts on the nut was SECURELY rusted to the shaft and the Allen key hole was a pit of rust that stripped smooth as soon as I looked at it. I ended up compressing the spring and cutting the main (shiny) part of the strut shaft with a cut-off tool as I knew the strut was bad. That took a couple minutes vs the hours I had already spent over several days soaking the nut with PB Blaster, heating with a torch, etc., trying in vain to even break the nut loose.
 
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