Hey everyone I'm new here just want to give a quick rundown on why I'm here. I was given a 2009 Honda fit sport for free, it is automatic unfortunately. However this was literally going to be a beat up work car just because they could haul quite a bit of stuff in the back. But to be honest I started to enjoy driving this thing more and more everyday. I used to be into all motor Hondas when I was a kid then got into RX7 and big turbos and so on and so forth. And then I got older and completely out of the game got into motorcycles. Well how about 6 months ago I was hit on my Cafe racer inspired build 2000 BMW r1100r and told the motorcycle and put me in the trauma center. My whole family was terrified and doesn't want me to step foot on a bike again. However my first built bike I still have my garage which is a 1979 Honda CB650 I built for my dad that he gave to me. It's the first Cafe racer I've ever built and it's gorgeous I love it. One day I will ride again. However for now I couldn't help but restore this Honda fit from its beaten bothered body silver dull paint with dents and dings all over. To fixing all the body work everywhere every panel perfectly straight and painted a three-stage white pearl myself with a copper interference Pearl. Then I decided to strap a GT 2871 on it and that's my current process right now. It is running into driving I have not gone over 2psi until my Ktuner V2 arrives tomorrow. I will start to enter a base map in the vehicle until my three bar map sensor arrives in a week. Also will be arriving a five lb spring adjustable internal wastegate. With my manual boost controller I will turn it to 7 to 8 PSI after I get my base tune in. So I figured I just want to post some stuff in here and want to have questions I know where to go. Here's a quick specification list so far Stock internals 248,000 MI Turbo gt2871 journal bearing billet aluminum compressor wheel internal wasting Custom mandrel bent v band two and a half inch downpipe flowing into two and a half inch custom mandrel bent exhaust going out to a N1 style l muffler Fuel system converted to return fuel system with a 255 lph pump rdx410cc injectors adjustable boost reference fuel pressure regulator eBay intercooler and piping with couplers Ktuner V2 Aem wideband Maxspeedingrods coilovers Quick disconnect suede steering wheel touge style That's about all I can think of right now LOL I'm just here to say hey

 

Welcome to the Forum!

 

Nice to have you aboard!

 

Welcome.

 

You don't waste time, do yuh?
The last fancy build/builder I recall was @PinkBatman
We'll see if this summons them and piques their interest.
I'd love to see some images of how you integrated the turbo into the exhaust. I'd love to hear more about that paint job, too (like whose paint you went with). And if you've got a shot of the CB... Well, I'm being greedy.

Anyways, welcome. I'm sorry to hear about your accident. Injury aside, the sensory engagement of riding is hard to give up, even if only for a time.

It's nice to see the GE getting some performance attention. The Fiesta really stole the limelight there.

 

Welcome.


Also "1979 Honda CB650" very nice... classic even. A guy I work with races an old 70s CB550, K I think model in a vintage class. My dad had an old CB as well, and I grew up on a Honda 4 stroke dirt bike, so I find myself now @ 40 really loving those old Honda bikes. They may be "slow, heavy, poor handling and breaking" by modern standards but they have a LOT to do with the motorcycle world today being what it is if you ask me. They turned things from Indian and Harley D. to well, bikes that don't suck, easy to ride and just worked.


As for the Turbo Fit, looks nice! What's your goal far as peak airflow? 17lb/min? (I loath talking boost pressure as it means very little)

 

Here are the bikes I built
As far as paint on the Fit I used Toyota super white base color, second stage of clear base with copper interference pearls, then standard clear coat. All sprayed in my mother's garage that she let me borrow.

Planing on running 5-7 PSI no clue the conversion for air volume but it's a GT 2871 lol

 

Also here is some turbo fabrication pics

 

You're not going to be able to convert boost pressure into an airflow mass sum. You'll have to use whatever tuning software you're going to use to see the MAF/MAS sensor's output (though sometimes it just sends data to the ECU which then calculates it) Boost pressure is technically a measure of a restriction of moving a mass of airflow. Think about it this way. 30psi through a straw isn't nearly as much air mass as 2psi through a 4" pipe and it's that mass of airflow that matters, that's what we're needing to burn more fuel under the right conditions to make more power. 17 lb/min I'd approximate to be generally speaking around 150hp worth of airflow, this is a very generic assumption way to many variables to nail it down and apply to every gasoline engine. But seeing as these L15A7 engines in the GE cars only make 117hp new, stock... I'd suspect that's maybe 13 lb/min. I learned this stuff as I had too, to tune my 1990 Eagle Talon TSi "back in the day"... had that car almost 20 years before I finally let it go, which I kind of regret. Anyway I don't know if you have seen the internals on the L15 series of engines, but um... though you can beat the hell out of them on the auto cross and circuit track all day, producing a large amount of power for their displacement is not something they're even remotely close to being built for... So I definitely wouldn't would get a good idea of what the engine flows stock, and not go too far above that... which sucks cause well that's a lot of time, work and money to turbo a NA car... oh and the compression ratio isn't going to be very friendly to boost. 10.4:1 I think it is?

Will you be doing the tuning or do you know of a good reliable shop that knows what they're doing?


Also, what seat/tail is that on both of those bikes? I really like it on the old CB.

 

Believe it or not just going to be my first vehicle I plan on learning how to tune myself. I can't justify the fact I just spent $600 for a tuner software and screen to continuously pay someone $300 every time I want to change something and retune it. At least that's a quote I got in this area from someone that has experience. So I will be hooking everything up Monday when it arrives installing injectors building my latency dead time tables so on and so forth building my first base map. Also installing and calibrating my three bar map sensor. And I really don't plan on making high horsepower on this thing just enough to have fun and actually getting in traffic safely on the interstate LOL.
And the rear seat cushion with frame plastic thing was actually a cheap one on Amazon but it's so nice out of all the crap I bought in the past I kept getting more of them.

 

Also I too had my share of dsms I had a 91 FWD TSI I had a 1990 AWD TSI a '96 I think GST but got sick of blowing hand gaskets over and over LOL plus I was young kid learning how to build motors but as a daily driver it was difficult putting a head gasket on every month going to school and work. The dumb kid running a big 18 g at 16 PSI stock block was begging to take the crank for a walk 😭

 

Crank walk was pretty rare on the 6 bolt engines in the 1G's, and it's not really a horse power thing, it's a load on the flywheel from an aftermarket clutch issue that will or wont manifest in the 7bolt's depending on the year as there were I believe 3 different thrust washer designs, the 95-97 I think were the worst, by 98-99 they resolved the issue they created when changing things from the 6 bolt to 7bolt. How in the world were you blowing head gaskets constantly? Were you on stock injectors and fuel pump? 16psi even with a whole new intake system and piping from a turbo to throttle body with a FMIC, shouldn't flow enough air on a 18g at 16psi to constantly be blowing head gaskets... Wait, since this sounds like it was back in the day, were you using one of these?


Because that would be part of the issue lol. The stock ignition timing maps were very aggressive, especially in the 1G cars. Having control over things for real and not manipulating the stock ECU with deception and lies now days is a night and day difference LOL. DM me if you want any advice in general on tuning strategy, I'm no wizard but I do know a few things and I really don't want to see you hurt your engine given the time and effort it looks like you have put in it, I know what that's like when you're doing it yourself and don't have money just materializing around you to do it.

One things for sure, on your fit, fuel shouldn't be a problem lol. Is it a return based system or does it dead head? (I'm not sure on the L15's yet)

 

OMG LOL it's so funny I haven't seen that since my DSM days exactly what I had for about super AFC lol. But I think the main reason was when I was a kid I didn't realize every time you blow a head gasket you should resurface the head so I just kept slapping warped head on top of a new gasket over and over I was young and dumb lol. And I will definitely hit you up once I receive my key tuner which was supposed to be today but it's delayed of course. Last but not least unfortunately it is a deadhead system because I can't find a freaking return fuel rail for this thing so I converted it into a return system but in the end it's still a deadhead of the rail. I was really disappointed about that but it's the best I can do without finding a rail.

 

The good news is I love the tinker even as a kid which even led me to adjusting adjustable cam gears on my b16 without a single clue on what it was doing to the engine LOL I would just loosen one turn it a little bit drive it see what happens come back do it again go to the other side anyway I realize there's an adult that I was so close to smacking the valves on top of the piston. Man that I get lucky way too many times back then. I even used to have a greddy profec b spec 2 on my RX7 and I think I installed the solenoid backwards because the first time I drove it it spiked to like 24 PSI which made the ass end squat so hard because my struts were pretty much nothing and blown out I just remember that feeling of it dipping down I thought I was in a freaking spaceship. Lovely my little rotary didn't blow again very lucky.

 

You were kinda lucky on that, a close friend of mine had a 93 RX-7 with some decent mods done to it.... those things give zero slack on pre-ignition/knock... takes very little to kill the apex seals.

 

Check this picture tonight looks pretty cool from my point of view I think

Driving view

 

How responsive is the screen/tachometer?

 

Immediate zero delay whatsoever it's instantaneous readout from the ECM from Ktuner and here's a picture of my first legit fuel map wide open throttle 12.8 AFR closed loop 14.7 Target and achieved. First one is low map second one is high map. Mind you I've never tuned a day in my life and this is my first attempt at it it's quite a bit of fun if you have the patience just to see the changes they can make some scary I must say when you don't do it just right LOL

 

Remember to mention that this is my base tune until my omnipower 3 bar map sensor arrives on Wednesday then I will continue tuning into my fuel curve under boost as well as 2step setup!

 

Main thing I learned, was just how much EASIER it is to tune IF you're numbers are lining up, and what I mean is yes you can just move stuff around until you get the desired result. But if your airflow isn't calibrated correctly, and say you just shove more fuel in an area of the map to get the desired A/F ratio, yes that does work, but it throws the readings off which eventually if you keep that up will cause it's own problems, one with your sanity and keeping track of it all, and sometimes in other areas like the timing map will want to do odd things until you go in and manually adjust it. So my first piece of advice is just to confirm everything is making sense far as readings, far as dead time/pulse width (I think the euro cars are the only ones that call it pulse width? just the other side of the coin we call dead time) and that the A/F ratio commanded is what's actually being achieved. So long as that's happening then tuning is much easier.

I'd pull basically all the ignition timing out from just before the turbo starts to spool to redline, increase boost/air mass until you get to your target area with the desired A/F ratio, I would suggest not going over 11.5:1, maybe 11:1-11.2:1 to play it more on the safe side. Anyway then once that's done, THEN start introducing ignition timing from redline, backwards to spool up point. 2 notes there, to save on making a million pulls to nail this down, the first bump or two in ignition timing can be somewhat agressive but then i'd slow way down on the advancement of it, like go from 0 to say 10* across the board from redline backwards BUT when you get close to the point the turbo has spooled up (which will change a bit going from 0 timing advance to well, some) you want that to taper downward (less) at the point the turbo spools, and then have it come in smoothly, so avoid like an on off switch or drastic change in timing there as that can cause knock. then it's just a matter of repeating the process, next time add say 3* do the same, rinse and repeat. remember to keep things tapered down to less timing around that spool up point. Obviously if you see knock, pull timing, if it goes away pulling 1-2 degrees, then just leave it there for say 500-800rpm, and see if you can add 1-2* back in later (higher) in the rpm band.

Now all that said, I have never tuned anything but 4G63 turbo engines, so things like VTEC of any veriant are mostly alien to me. Like I get how it works and all that but I mean far as accounting for it in the ECU.

P.S. You can move from spool up to redline on the ignition map as well if that's the way you'd rather do it (it's the way many do it) you'll still zero everything out from the point the turbo starts to make boost, and the advantage to going this direction is if it will "accept" more timing at any given rpm, it can basically be raised to that forwards to redline without a thought. Oh and you may want to look into a colder spark plug that OEM, usually 1 heat range colder.