Oil Change 3k or 5k?
#1
Oil Change 3k or 5k?
I'm no car guru and am a little confused when it comes to oil changes in a new car. i always changed my oil around 3k, but dealership telling me i could change it around 5k with the 09 fits. that seems a little long for me, maybe its cuz i always changed it every 3k.
also does everyone keep their rpms below 3 till 1k miles on a brand new car? breaking in a car as well i heard many different things.
whats your input? help a noob out.
also does everyone keep their rpms below 3 till 1k miles on a brand new car? breaking in a car as well i heard many different things.
whats your input? help a noob out.
#4
Straight from the owner's manual: Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles. During this period:
-Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
-Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles.
-Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time.
As for the oil changes, txmatt is correct - just follow the Maintenance Minder. (There's lots of info on that in the manual as well). The mileage between oil changes is not a set figure and will vary based on your driving - generally anywhere between 3500 miles for rough driving and up to 7000 for easy use.
-Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
-Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles.
-Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time.
As for the oil changes, txmatt is correct - just follow the Maintenance Minder. (There's lots of info on that in the manual as well). The mileage between oil changes is not a set figure and will vary based on your driving - generally anywhere between 3500 miles for rough driving and up to 7000 for easy use.
#7
Today's oils, and engines, are significantly better than 20 years ago. I think the 3k oil change interval was a ploy by the quick lube industry. While there's certainly no harm changing oil every 3k miles, it most likely a waste of money for most individuals. As mentioned above, watch the maintenance minder for a pretty accurate guideline. You can always check your oil between changes to check levels and color, but 5k sounds about right for Honda.
#8
I'm changing mine every 7k on my 07 Fit FWIW
#9
The heck with a Fit, I'm going for a used S-15
#13
For me:
First oil change at 5,000 with Mobil 1 Synthetic and Purolator Pureone Filter.
Next oil change at 10,000 with Royal Purple and Purolator Pureone Filter. I'm going to pickup a Fumoto valve too so I don't have to worry about those stupid crush washers.
All subsequent changes will be done according to maintenance minder (7,500). Since this is synthetic oil, it lasts an extremely long time. I'll continue to use Purolator Pureone Filter.
Depending on when these oil changes fall in the year I will run 0w-20 in the winter when the temps get down to -20 Degrees F. During the spring, summer fall, 5w-20.
First oil change at 5,000 with Mobil 1 Synthetic and Purolator Pureone Filter.
Next oil change at 10,000 with Royal Purple and Purolator Pureone Filter. I'm going to pickup a Fumoto valve too so I don't have to worry about those stupid crush washers.
All subsequent changes will be done according to maintenance minder (7,500). Since this is synthetic oil, it lasts an extremely long time. I'll continue to use Purolator Pureone Filter.
Depending on when these oil changes fall in the year I will run 0w-20 in the winter when the temps get down to -20 Degrees F. During the spring, summer fall, 5w-20.
#15
Just wait til your little orange Wrench comes on... then go to honda nad they will tell you what they need. people come in here and still have like 50% left and then argue with us about it
#16
For me:
First oil change at 5,000 with Mobil 1 Synthetic and Purolator Pureone Filter.
Next oil change at 10,000 with Royal Purple and Purolator Pureone Filter. I'm going to pickup a Fumoto valve too so I don't have to worry about those stupid crush washers.
All subsequent changes will be done according to maintenance minder (7,500). Since this is synthetic oil, it lasts an extremely long time. I'll continue to use Purolator Pureone Filter.
Depending on when these oil changes fall in the year I will run 0w-20 in the winter when the temps get down to -20 Degrees F. During the spring, summer fall, 5w-20.
First oil change at 5,000 with Mobil 1 Synthetic and Purolator Pureone Filter.
Next oil change at 10,000 with Royal Purple and Purolator Pureone Filter. I'm going to pickup a Fumoto valve too so I don't have to worry about those stupid crush washers.
All subsequent changes will be done according to maintenance minder (7,500). Since this is synthetic oil, it lasts an extremely long time. I'll continue to use Purolator Pureone Filter.
Depending on when these oil changes fall in the year I will run 0w-20 in the winter when the temps get down to -20 Degrees F. During the spring, summer fall, 5w-20.
#18
5W-20 is a multi-weight or more accurately, multi-viscosity, oil. It basically has two different "thicknesses." The heavier one is the 20 weight. It's thicker when cold, but once it warms up it's fine. The problem is it won't flow as well when cold. So when you start up a cold engine it will take more time to reach full lubrication and you will wear the engine more quickly (most engine wear occurs during start up).
What oil manufacturers have done is to include a second component lighter weight oil to help lubricate during this start-up phase. That's the "5" in the 5W-20.
Now, 20 weight oil is very thin to begin with. Unless it get's down into the 30's where you live, straight 20 weight is all you really need. But if it does get down to near freezing, going with the multi-weight is probably a good idea.
Honda has probably gone with a 20 weight oil because it gives better MPG and emmissions results, but in our Si track car (I was a Skip Barber driving instructor in a past life, now just a club hack ) car we still ran straight 30 weight for the extreme conditions of time trial events, especially here in hot Florida where a thin oil like a 20 weight runs the risk of being too thin once it's heated and not providing proper lubrication.
What oil manufacturers have done is to include a second component lighter weight oil to help lubricate during this start-up phase. That's the "5" in the 5W-20.
Now, 20 weight oil is very thin to begin with. Unless it get's down into the 30's where you live, straight 20 weight is all you really need. But if it does get down to near freezing, going with the multi-weight is probably a good idea.
Honda has probably gone with a 20 weight oil because it gives better MPG and emmissions results, but in our Si track car (I was a Skip Barber driving instructor in a past life, now just a club hack ) car we still ran straight 30 weight for the extreme conditions of time trial events, especially here in hot Florida where a thin oil like a 20 weight runs the risk of being too thin once it's heated and not providing proper lubrication.
#19
well i understand that. and i have no intention of running 5w-30. but why not use 0W-20 when it is negative 20 degrees Fahrenheit and colder? i'm just wondering how i should have it "the other way around".
Last edited by Fat Ping Cat; 09-09-2008 at 10:34 PM. Reason: to UNDERLINE and place emphasis upon how cold it gets here
#20
Think about it, if you have pancake syrup, a fairly high viscosity liquid, and you put it in the fridge is it harder or easier to squeeze it out of the bottle than if you put it in the microwave and warm it up? Now, if you have a lighter viscosity sticky liquid, like say Coke, will there really be as much difference at 35 degrees and 100 degrees? So having a multi-weight oil is like having both coke and pancake syrup in the same bottle.
Now, it isn't really that simple. It's really one oil, but polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temps, but you get the idea.
Damn, now I am hungry!
Here is some great "light reading" if your are an engineering freak:
Howstuffworks
Last edited by raceboy; 09-09-2008 at 10:46 PM.