$12 Tails + Free Exhaust Finisher on Base Fit.
Hey Guys,
I really can't stand the trend towards clear tail lights that doesn't seem to be going away. I had a 2003 Acura CL that I got some light smoke vinyl film to cover the clear parts with so I did the same thing on the Fit. $12 for a 24X24 sheet from rvinyl.com on ebay.
I read the installation instructions online and it said to wet the tint and heat it for curved tail lights. My installation was not the greatest but I really like the way it looks. I could just get another sheet for 12 bucks to try and clean up my mistakes but I think it would take quite a bit of practice to get it perfect.
Here's how they look.



I always thought it was funny that the Sport comes with an exhaust "finisher". I noticed the base has a nice stainless piece right at the end so I figured why not just finish that?
I hit it with some 1500 grit sandpaper soaked with WD 40. This is a trick I leaned from my machinist for removing rust spots from a new old stock cam I bought for my Omni.
Rubbed a little polish on it after the sanding and it turned out pretty good. Could probably use some more sanding but I think it looks a lot better.
Completely stock base tip.
I really can't stand the trend towards clear tail lights that doesn't seem to be going away. I had a 2003 Acura CL that I got some light smoke vinyl film to cover the clear parts with so I did the same thing on the Fit. $12 for a 24X24 sheet from rvinyl.com on ebay.
I read the installation instructions online and it said to wet the tint and heat it for curved tail lights. My installation was not the greatest but I really like the way it looks. I could just get another sheet for 12 bucks to try and clean up my mistakes but I think it would take quite a bit of practice to get it perfect.
Here's how they look.
I always thought it was funny that the Sport comes with an exhaust "finisher". I noticed the base has a nice stainless piece right at the end so I figured why not just finish that?
I hit it with some 1500 grit sandpaper soaked with WD 40. This is a trick I leaned from my machinist for removing rust spots from a new old stock cam I bought for my Omni.
Rubbed a little polish on it after the sanding and it turned out pretty good. Could probably use some more sanding but I think it looks a lot better.
Completely stock base tip.

Chad T,
Good job on the exhaust tip. However, if I am not mistaken, the base exhaust tip is covered with a anti-rust coating, and by using sand paper, you are just removing the anti-rust coating. So it has the possibility of rusting later on.
Good job on the exhaust tip. However, if I am not mistaken, the base exhaust tip is covered with a anti-rust coating, and by using sand paper, you are just removing the anti-rust coating. So it has the possibility of rusting later on.
That is a great Idea... I have to do my tip now.....
Oh and I use metrorestyling for my film got burn by Rvinyl once
I ordered the red out kit for my tails...Believe you have to keep backups clear in my state might smoke those.
I watched about 80 of those how to videos before I got it, One trick I used from a video is to cover the squegee in a wet paper towel helps avoid those scratches you get from plastic on vinyl contact and keep spraying lol
Oh and I use metrorestyling for my film got burn by Rvinyl once
I ordered the red out kit for my tails...Believe you have to keep backups clear in my state might smoke those.
I watched about 80 of those how to videos before I got it, One trick I used from a video is to cover the squegee in a wet paper towel helps avoid those scratches you get from plastic on vinyl contact and keep spraying lol
Last edited by slimchriz; Aug 29, 2009 at 01:11 AM.
Great idea on the tip
Great job on the tip. Has anyone tried this on the base '07 Fit? Wonder if it would work on that as well. Too bad that the exhaust tip on the base '07 are downturned and not nearly as sporty looking as the '09s
Thanks for all the kind words folks!
There are definitely some tricks to it. I kind of wish I had taken more time but I like the way it looks. Just a couple of small bubbles here and there.
If I did it again I would have a helper hold the hair dryer to melt the film around the curve. I just didn't have enough hands to soften it and get it strateched on to the light before it cooled.
As long as it's stainless it will polish up like that and stay that way. You can check it with a magnet. If it doesn't stick it's definitely stainless. Could still be a lower chrome content stainless if it sticks but if the magnet won't stick it's definitely stainless.
Here's another pic of the tip out in the daylight.
If I did it again I would have a helper hold the hair dryer to melt the film around the curve. I just didn't have enough hands to soften it and get it strateched on to the light before it cooled.
Here's another pic of the tip out in the daylight.
Last edited by Chad T; Aug 31, 2009 at 08:26 PM.
Thanks for all the kind words folks!
There are definitely some tricks to it. I kind of wish I had taken more time but I like the way it looks. Just a couple of small bubbles here and there.
If I did it again I would have a helper hold the hair dryer to melt the film around the curve. I just didn't have enough hands to soften it and get it stretched on to the light before it cooled.
There are definitely some tricks to it. I kind of wish I had taken more time but I like the way it looks. Just a couple of small bubbles here and there.
If I did it again I would have a helper hold the hair dryer to melt the film around the curve. I just didn't have enough hands to soften it and get it stretched on to the light before it cooled.
But what I do when I apply graphics or film, if I have a bubble is take a razor and poke the bubble gently a few times then squegee....
You cant see the tiny holes and they release the air.
Yah patience is is key... But they all say the little bubbles go away on there own... I cant stand to leave em there so I cant say Ive seen them dissipate with my own eyes...
But what I do when I apply graphics or film, if I have a bubble is take a razor and poke the bubble gently a few times then squegee....
You cant see the tiny holes and they release the air.
But what I do when I apply graphics or film, if I have a bubble is take a razor and poke the bubble gently a few times then squegee....
You cant see the tiny holes and they release the air.
When I got my windows tinted... there were tons of small bubbles everywhere on it, and they said just leave it be and don't mess with it for a week.
Long story short, they went away on their own, and it looks amazing.
I say give it time before you go messing with it.
Wopasaurus: Thats definitely true for the small bubbles they will go away but large bubbles do need to be poked.
yah, maybe he couldn't get the wool between the exhaust tip and the bumper without scuffing the valance? 
chad- nice look, i like it!

chad- nice look, i like it!

Exactly. I took strips of 1500 grit paper and wrapped them around the tip so I could pull them back and fourth. Steel wool might work but stainless takes a little working to shine up. I knew the sandpaper with the WD would be the fastest way.
I shined this intake pipe on my old Audi when I found out it was stainless. I sanded it and then used a polishing wheel. That works the best.
I like to polish things.
The tip took me about 10 minutes to do.


