Thought I might share my system with you.



With hatch closed. Poor quality but in between subs is the capacitor / voltage readout / cap charging indicator.





Now with hatch open. Hard to tell but I built the box exactly as wide and deep as the cargo area can hold with the seats up. Impossible to remove the box through the hatch. Box is in fact sitting on the cargo floor. 22inch tall. 4.4 cubes @ 34hz port tunning frequency - upward firing. Amp is mounted between the box and seat 1k rms 2k peak. The kicker cvrs were defently a good investment in terms of SPL/Dollar. Hits hard enough to shake the rearview mirror out of position. I'm yet to invest in a db/spl meter but the Fit's small size / volume makes for some excellent internal db gains. Liftgate trim has been sound deadened to help minimize the vibrations I was getting. With some bass test tracks and frequency generators I was able to get my house to vibrate a bit. I can actually feel the bass in the walls / floor of my home with it playing in the garage. However, the low PTF allows for some acceptable SQ at low / mid levels (daily driving). This was my second build and I'm fairly pleased. My only concern is that due to the high mounting postition of the capacitor people in large SUvs and Pickups are able to see the LED voltage readout and blue charging indicator. One day some yuppie soccer mom will have the bomb squad called on me because she has no idea what she is looking at - time for limo tint. For security I took a few extra messures that should supprise anyone trying to steal it. They'll probably end up bashing my car up in frustration but at least they wont have my subs - not that they are exactly worth stealing IMO - they're just CVRs afterall - but crack money is hard to come by nowadays - or so I hear. Will not disclose b/c this is a public forum and it would render the 'security' pointless.

Unfortunately, I have certainly reached or possibly exceeded the power output capabilities of the stock alternator. I do not see it being feasible to upgrade until an aftermarket HO alternator AND some sort of ECU reprograming (way out of my league) that actually allows the fit to benefit from a HO alternator (the fit lowers the output of the alternator durring percieved lower power demand - i.e. idling - in order to reduce parasitic drag. However the computer is unaware that an amplifier is greedily sucking away power and needs that baby to put out all its got. I imagine this will inevitably lead to premature alternator failure.




























^view from the hood



^ door handle close ups


^ Rear footwell lighting.


^ lighting from cargo corner lights. taking those side cargo panels off was a PIA.


^ hard to tell but this is that storage cubby in the back.




10mm and 5mm chrome LED holders above cargo area and rear spotlight module.









^ oops left my jacket in there

















Just some more parts of my ongoing lighting project. Once again poor quality from the iPhone. All work is custom (obviously).


Exterior:

Blue puddle lights
Blue upper grille illumination
Orange lower grille illumination
Blue front underglow - as opposed to full underglow
Orange wheel well illumination x 4

Interior

Orange door cup holder / storage lights
Blue door handle illumination
Blue front footwell lights
3 Blue LED VIP style spot light unit mounted on B pillar facing roof. x2
3 Blue LED VIP style spot light unit mounted on curvature of roof right in front of child latch above cargo area.
Blue LED lights mounted into child latch cover facing down at subwoofers (tastefully mounted in chrome LED holders / shrouds - as are all other stand alone LED lights) x2
Blue LED lights mounted in corners of cargo area facing downward x2
Blue LED lights illuminating storage compartment in cargo area.
Orange LED center vent illumination.
Orange LED defroster vent illumination
Orange LED shifter illumination (3mm chrome mounts in plastic panel above cigarette lighter pointing at shifter)
Orange LED center cup holder illumination
Blue rear footwell illumination.
Blue dome light illumination. (I left map lights alone so I can have white light for practical needs on demand)
Blue LED Bass Knob mounted underneath cigarette lighter.

Wiring -

Switched Relay System.

I am running a relay to a LED toggle switch mounted into the apropriate place (same area as vsa switch and that whimpy honda illumination system)

When the toggle switch is off the relay is disengaged and my lights are powered through the dome light circuit. This means the lights remain legal and are only on when a door is open, after engine is turned off, or doors are unlocked by security system. Also, the lighting maintains the fade in / fade out effect.

When the toggle switch is on the relay is engaged and power is suplied directly from an added circuit in the fuse pannel. The lights remain on under all circumstances (except dead battery :/ although thanks to the lower power consumption of LED lights this takes ~4 hours on stock battery) until the relay is disengaged.

Okay, so I'm ready for the flames and cries of 'ricer' However, by obeying 3 simple rules I created for the project I hope some leniancy will be granted for me.

1. ALWAYS hide the light source. A shroud or mount must ALWAYS be used when installing ANY light source to the vehicle that would otherwise be visible from ANY likely viewing positions.
2. CHECK YOUR COLOR WHEEL. The next biggest ricer mistake with lighting is to use colors that dont even compliment each other. If you look at a color wheel you will see that Orange and Blue work well together.



USE IT!

3. Always have an accent color. All blue doesn't look too great. All red doesn't either. So choose a primary color and at least one accent color. The accent color is just that so dont over do it.



Thanks


tl;dr (too long didn't read) -
vtec, it just kicked in, yo.

 

looks great. Can you get a picture in the daytime or more closeups? seems really awesome

 

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh,I just think so

 

Pics!!???......

 

Pics Up! I learned that Iphone pictures have your gps coords stored in a data section of the photos so i had to strip them all down before posting them up.

 

I will never understand this. I would maybe compliment the workmanship when you get some better pics up. You need a tripod and at least a 10 second exposure.

 

Reminds me of Fast & Furious status.

 

Nice job!!!!!!

With the talk in another thread about the flimsy Fit roof, your roof probably looks like a bullfrog's throat expanding and contracting, as it goes down the road..........

 

The system is nice, but oh God, I don't even know what to say about those lights.

 

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh,I feel the same too

 

Well I guess with the advent of cheaper, brighter LEDs people don't use neon lighting anymore? That's good I suppose.

 

you weren't kidding when you said "extensive".

 

Quote Switched Relay System.

I am running a relay to a LED toggle switch mounted into the apropriate place (same area as vsa switch and that whimpy honda illumination system)

When the toggle switch is off the relay is disengaged and my lights are powered through the dome light circuit. This means the lights remain legal and are only on when a door is open, after engine is turned off, or doors are unlocked by security system. Also, the lighting maintains the fade in / fade out effect.

When the toggle switch is on the relay is engaged and power is suplied directly from an added circuit in the fuse pannel. The lights remain on under all circumstances (except dead battery :/ although thanks to the lower power consumption of LED lights this takes ~4 hours on stock battery) until the relay is disengaged.

End of quote

I like some of your LED placements. I would be interested in seeing the wiring diagram for this switch

 

Sorry again for the poor pics but this seems to be about the best the iphone wants to give me. Without a dedicated camera I'll have to be happy with it. Anyway with the project being ~70% done (those rear door handles look lonely without lights and the subwoofer slot port would look alright with some lighting) I was wondering if anyone would share their opinion on if I should go with FULL underbody glow or just stick the front only. I'm starting to think that it really needs to have a full underglow to make everything fit in right. Any opinions?

 

Yeah, do full under body because it's aweome!

 

Trying my best to be constructive, so here goes. I will pose it to you like this. Your car is going to stick out like a sore thumb. I am glad you at least incorporated a bit of principle into the addition of LED's, but seriously whats the point. The whole point of LED's and underglows is the "Look At ME" effect. Its not really my taste, and you are about 5 to 10 years late on the lighting trend. Most importantly though, by making your car so noticable, you are just asking for someone to steal your system.

 

or telling a cop to pull you over.

 

Believe it or not this is something I've been at ends with myself about. Part of me wishes it never went so far but it all began with the damn footwell lights. Those were undeniably usefull and functional. but then this turned into that and it has just kept going and going. I get alot of different feedback. Some people really like it, alot. Mostly people around my age - 20s. However alot of people see it as senseless and I definetly agree with that too. It was undeniably alot of fun to install though and to me that justifies the work. More than likely in another month or two I will rewire everything so that only the interior lights will turn on through the dome circuit. Ill probably minimize the interior lights too. This will leave the toggle switch for the rare occasion i ever want the 'look at me effect' Asside from that due to the way i've installed everything no one would have a clue anything is there.

Same with the subs. It all began as a little 10in sub and 500 watt amp (150 rms) I just wanted a fuller sound stage. 3 amps and 4 subs later here I am with a system that puts out enough bass, to quote a coworker, 'to take a girl from start to orgasm in under a minute'

-You have to admit its the same way for performance mods.-

As for the cops its a non issue, its wired in such a way that i almost never ride with them on. The last time I flicked them on while ridding was 4th of july when it was far too crowded for cops to do anything. Same with the subs I rarely keep them loud enough to worry and when i do see cops its as simple as turning the radio down.

The only part I argue with is being 5-10 years behind. I dont argue that im behind but rather that it is a bad thing. I personally cant stand newer stuff like HID lights. At least my system only says 'look at me' when I want it to. HID lights are always there. Sure you can turn em off but you need to have them on at night. And my lights dont blind people. (lets admit it, most people arent even installing projectors. kudos to those who do) Halos would be cool too if vehicles didnt already come off the production line already like that.

 

Its funny to look back at these pics. I have pulled out the underglow and wheel well lights and the only external lights I have anymore are stronger orange lower grille lights and the led headlight 'eyebrows'. (Interior lights haven't changed too much, just brighter in some places now (I've still been meaning to put in those door handle lights in the rear handles now for about 9months...) LOL I pulled off the kicker stickers too. I'm also working on changing alot of the interior lights to white instead of blue/orange. De-Riced ftw.

 

I'm doing my car in blue LEDs but I'm building my own led light bars and doing everything on rocker switchs I don't plan on driving with them on but everyonce in a while it's nice to have the look at me glow lol