First oil change, by book or by dealer?
First oil change, by book or by dealer?
I recently got an 09 fit base model m/t. I read the section of the onwers manual pertaining to breaking in and service. It recomends not changing the oil until prompted by the in dash display. It makes no mention of having any special break in oil or anything to that effect. My dealer recently called me and told me I should be coming in for an oil change at 4000 mi. Now, since my car has 1400 mi on it and the display still reads 90% oil life, I can't imaging it's going to shoot down to zero at the 4000 miles mark. Is the dealer just trying to hustle work, and will changing the oil before prompted by the display reduce engine longevity by compromising the break in peroiod? Does anyone know if the factory fill is a break in oil?
There have been lots of threads about this and lots of opinions. I called my dealer and the service manager said:
- They recommend going by what the maintenance minder says, just wasting money to change oil early.
- They have some customers who still want an earlier oil change and they're happy to do it if asked.
- If you do get the oil changed early, it will fowl up maintenance reminders about other services, so they recommend having an early oil change (if customer wants it) at 50-60% oil life. They'll do the oil change, but not reset the maintenance minder. Then when the car reads about 10% oil life, do the next oil change at that point and they reset the maintenance minder.
- The service manager said he is not aware of the original oil in the Fit being a special break in oil. He thinks it's the same synthetic blend Honda recommends for oil changes.
This a large, reputable dealer for what it's worth. But like I said, you're likely to hear lots of different advice on this. To me, it sounds like your dealer is trying to generate a little extra service income.
- They recommend going by what the maintenance minder says, just wasting money to change oil early.
- They have some customers who still want an earlier oil change and they're happy to do it if asked.
- If you do get the oil changed early, it will fowl up maintenance reminders about other services, so they recommend having an early oil change (if customer wants it) at 50-60% oil life. They'll do the oil change, but not reset the maintenance minder. Then when the car reads about 10% oil life, do the next oil change at that point and they reset the maintenance minder.
- The service manager said he is not aware of the original oil in the Fit being a special break in oil. He thinks it's the same synthetic blend Honda recommends for oil changes.
This a large, reputable dealer for what it's worth. But like I said, you're likely to hear lots of different advice on this. To me, it sounds like your dealer is trying to generate a little extra service income.
Last edited by Ultrawolf; Nov 8, 2009 at 12:03 PM.
I changed oil at 5000 km. I got that advice from highscool classmate who basicly sold me the car. He didn't force it, just his opinion. But beside oil change my car was checked like it was first service.
I wanted to change oil again at 15000 km like I was used with my old car (every 10k). The service maneger said no need. Just go with computer. The next service was then set at 25000 km but it seems that it counts down a little faster than I'm getting my mileage.
Later I heard that this is all kinda old school and it's really no longer required with new motors and oil now days. The sam with driving at low rpm for the first 5000 km.
Anyways oil change before prompted by the display in my opinion can't reduce engine longevity. There is no logic in that, for me.
I wanted to change oil again at 15000 km like I was used with my old car (every 10k). The service maneger said no need. Just go with computer. The next service was then set at 25000 km but it seems that it counts down a little faster than I'm getting my mileage.
Later I heard that this is all kinda old school and it's really no longer required with new motors and oil now days. The sam with driving at low rpm for the first 5000 km.
Anyways oil change before prompted by the display in my opinion can't reduce engine longevity. There is no logic in that, for me.
Check your oil. When the oil is dirty, it is dirty and what the book says doesn't matter. Once it gets so dirty that it can no longer absorb dirt, engine wear will occur. Use your head, don't put blind faith what the book says.
I changed mine at 3k because it was black. There is no way in hell I will put another 4k on it.
As a former mechanic that worked on engines worth far more than the entire value of any Fit, I can quantify when the engine oil is dirty to the point of needing change without relying on some stupid gauge that has no way of actually measuring the oil for dirt. Also, the rings are fully broken in at 1,200 miles or less so keeping the factory oil in after that is a moot point.
I changed mine at 3k because it was black. There is no way in hell I will put another 4k on it.
As a former mechanic that worked on engines worth far more than the entire value of any Fit, I can quantify when the engine oil is dirty to the point of needing change without relying on some stupid gauge that has no way of actually measuring the oil for dirt. Also, the rings are fully broken in at 1,200 miles or less so keeping the factory oil in after that is a moot point.
First, even though the oil that was in your engine when you bought it is in fact a special-formulated "break-in" oil, it is not necessary to leave it in the engine until the maintenance minder sez it's time to change the oil. The engine would break in just fine even if you used regular oil from the beginning. The only thing this "break-in" oil (supposedly) does is help break the engine in a little sooner than it otherwise would.
When the engine is being broken in it is normal for the engine to consume some oil . Mine used about a quart every 2500 miles. But after break-in oil consumption over a 5000-mile interval dropped to almost nil.
So therefore, how do you know when your engine is completely broken in? Answer: when it stops consuming oil. In my Fit this occurred at around 6000 miles. (9600kms). I changed my oil at that point with the indicator lying to me, saying I still had 50% oil life remaining. The oil btw was black at that point, and loaded with a larger-than-normal quantity of contaminants-- which of course is normal during break-in.
Finally, it is NOT NECESSARY TO HAVE THE DEALER CHANGE YOUR OIL in order to meet warranty requirements. The owners' manual only states that maintenance, including oil and filter changes, must be performed by a competent person, ie: not even necessarily a licensed mechanic let alone one of Honda's own "service specialists."
Furthermore, if a warranty claim is required the onus is on the MANUFACTURER and the DEALER NETWORK to prove that the failure was caused by improper or insufficient maintenance.
So do your own oil changes. They're very easy to do and only take about 20 minutes working at a leisurely rate. And change the filter too, using a premium filter that has never seen the inside of a Fram factory. Napa filters are not only the best bang for buck but one of the best filters, period. (they're made by Wix).
Once finished, you don't need the dealer to re-set your maintenance minder either. The procedure is spelled out in the owners' manual. Simply select the oil-life-remaining feature on your maintenance minder indicator until you see the "oil life remaining" indication. Then push the trip-odometer knob in and hold it in until the indicator begins flashing. (usually after holding knob in for 5 to 10 seconds). Release the knob, then push it back in and hold until the indicatior reads "100% oil life remaining." This may take another 5 to 10 seconds. Voila! You're done.
Total cost to do your own oil change using a Napa Select (ie: not even their premium grade, yet still better than most others' top-of-the-line) filter and 3-and-a-half quarts of 5-W-20 Synthetic oil (I use Castrol Syntec) will cost you around $25. Having Honda do this service for you (while providing only regular oil and a "gen-yew-wine" Honda (more likely painted-over Fram) filter with sodomize you to the tune of somewhere north of $60.
Just be sure to keep all records and receipts for all maintenance performed on your car, even if the work was done by you. record odometer readings and dates on all entries and keep them arranged in chronological order in a log book. This will prove the car has been properly maintained and will bring a decent price when you sell it privately (NEVER trade in to a dealer--- they'll financially rape you) a few years from now, at which point you can then order your next car online and pay for it with the funds from the old car plus the certified check from your own bank that you were pre-approved for, thus doing an end run around the dealership financing smoke-and-mirrors show.
When the engine is being broken in it is normal for the engine to consume some oil . Mine used about a quart every 2500 miles. But after break-in oil consumption over a 5000-mile interval dropped to almost nil.
So therefore, how do you know when your engine is completely broken in? Answer: when it stops consuming oil. In my Fit this occurred at around 6000 miles. (9600kms). I changed my oil at that point with the indicator lying to me, saying I still had 50% oil life remaining. The oil btw was black at that point, and loaded with a larger-than-normal quantity of contaminants-- which of course is normal during break-in.
Finally, it is NOT NECESSARY TO HAVE THE DEALER CHANGE YOUR OIL in order to meet warranty requirements. The owners' manual only states that maintenance, including oil and filter changes, must be performed by a competent person, ie: not even necessarily a licensed mechanic let alone one of Honda's own "service specialists."
Furthermore, if a warranty claim is required the onus is on the MANUFACTURER and the DEALER NETWORK to prove that the failure was caused by improper or insufficient maintenance.
So do your own oil changes. They're very easy to do and only take about 20 minutes working at a leisurely rate. And change the filter too, using a premium filter that has never seen the inside of a Fram factory. Napa filters are not only the best bang for buck but one of the best filters, period. (they're made by Wix).
Once finished, you don't need the dealer to re-set your maintenance minder either. The procedure is spelled out in the owners' manual. Simply select the oil-life-remaining feature on your maintenance minder indicator until you see the "oil life remaining" indication. Then push the trip-odometer knob in and hold it in until the indicator begins flashing. (usually after holding knob in for 5 to 10 seconds). Release the knob, then push it back in and hold until the indicatior reads "100% oil life remaining." This may take another 5 to 10 seconds. Voila! You're done.
Total cost to do your own oil change using a Napa Select (ie: not even their premium grade, yet still better than most others' top-of-the-line) filter and 3-and-a-half quarts of 5-W-20 Synthetic oil (I use Castrol Syntec) will cost you around $25. Having Honda do this service for you (while providing only regular oil and a "gen-yew-wine" Honda (more likely painted-over Fram) filter with sodomize you to the tune of somewhere north of $60.
Just be sure to keep all records and receipts for all maintenance performed on your car, even if the work was done by you. record odometer readings and dates on all entries and keep them arranged in chronological order in a log book. This will prove the car has been properly maintained and will bring a decent price when you sell it privately (NEVER trade in to a dealer--- they'll financially rape you) a few years from now, at which point you can then order your next car online and pay for it with the funds from the old car plus the certified check from your own bank that you were pre-approved for, thus doing an end run around the dealership financing smoke-and-mirrors show.
Aviator, there's no need for a log book. Record all your maintenance--whether done by you, your dealer, Wally World, or anywhere else--at Owner Link. When you're ready to sell your car, print out all maintenance records and give them to the new owner. That's better than handing over receipts that may have more personal information than you want to give out.
Check your oil. When the oil is dirty, it is dirty and what the book says doesn't matter. Once it gets so dirty that it can no longer absorb dirt, engine wear will occur. Use your head, don't put blind faith what the book says.
I changed mine at 3k because it was black. There is no way in hell I will put another 4k on it.
As a former mechanic that worked on engines worth far more than the entire value of any Fit, I can quantify when the engine oil is dirty to the point of needing change without relying on some stupid gauge that has no way of actually measuring the oil for dirt. Also, the rings are fully broken in at 1,200 miles or less so keeping the factory oil in after that is a moot point.
I changed mine at 3k because it was black. There is no way in hell I will put another 4k on it.
As a former mechanic that worked on engines worth far more than the entire value of any Fit, I can quantify when the engine oil is dirty to the point of needing change without relying on some stupid gauge that has no way of actually measuring the oil for dirt. Also, the rings are fully broken in at 1,200 miles or less so keeping the factory oil in after that is a moot point.
You really gotta stop putting dirt in your engine...
we could make a meme out of this: 'oil analysis or it didn't happen'
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; Nov 8, 2009 at 11:52 PM.
There was ALOT of good information in your post however I couldn't help but notice this. You seriously should get that checked out. Sounds like your piston rings didnt seat well. At 10k when I did my oil change I still had damn near every drop of oil that came with the car based on it filling my oil drain pan halfway past the 3 quart mark (never added any oil durring those 10k).
Okay okay I'm just pullin your leg. As I'm sure you're aware burning oil can be a normal part of engine break-in. Just make sure that clears up soon.
Okay okay I'm just pullin your leg. As I'm sure you're aware burning oil can be a normal part of engine break-in. Just make sure that clears up soon.
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; Nov 9, 2009 at 03:01 AM.
I got free oil changes for life every 5k from my dealership (given, I have to drive a bit to get to them) but I'll take em!
As far as my maintenance minder it's looking to be on track for 10% every 1000 miles. I think I'm a little over 2k miles now.
As far as my maintenance minder it's looking to be on track for 10% every 1000 miles. I think I'm a little over 2k miles now.
There was ALOT of good information in your post however I couldn't help but notice this. You seriously should get that checked out. Sounds like your piston rings didnt seat well. At 10k when I did my oil change I still had damn near every drop of oil that came with the car based on it filling my oil drain pan halfway past the 3 quart mark (never added any oil durring those 10k).
Okay okay I'm just pullin your leg. As I'm sure you're aware burning oil can be a normal part of engine break-in. Just make sure that clears up soon.
Okay okay I'm just pullin your leg. As I'm sure you're aware burning oil can be a normal part of engine break-in. Just make sure that clears up soon.
Aviator, there's no need for a log book. Record all your maintenance--whether done by you, your dealer, Wally World, or anywhere else--at Owner Link. When you're ready to sell your car, print out all maintenance records and give them to the new owner. That's better than handing over receipts that may have more personal information than you want to give out.
I'd still keep a log book with original receipts just in case, but I certainly agree that personal info on them could fall into the wrong hands. This could be remedied by simply blotting out your address and phone numbers.
Oh, and the car pictured in your post is identical to my Sport MT. Is yours manual or auto?
each time i changed my oil early in a brand new car, the oil came out basicaly brand new.. and i wasted my money.
BUTTTT i see your point completely here, because my first cars i had I didn't drive much either, so how long has it been sinse you had your car. Oil DOES get old you know, so like 6 months+ then yeah some car manufactures does actually recommend changing your oil at 3k miles OR 6 months whichever comes first (just giving this as an example because i know hondas are more like based on what kind of driving conditions you are doing)
I drive A LOT now so the 6 months rule doesn't apply to me anymore because I always hit 5k miles or 10k miles before that 6 months comes around.
BUTTTT i see your point completely here, because my first cars i had I didn't drive much either, so how long has it been sinse you had your car. Oil DOES get old you know, so like 6 months+ then yeah some car manufactures does actually recommend changing your oil at 3k miles OR 6 months whichever comes first (just giving this as an example because i know hondas are more like based on what kind of driving conditions you are doing)
I drive A LOT now so the 6 months rule doesn't apply to me anymore because I always hit 5k miles or 10k miles before that 6 months comes around.
When I purchased my car, i was given a *free* warranty on behalf of quaker state, that warranties my engine (wristpins, piston-rings, bearings, the whole thing) for 10 years or 300k miles whichever comes first, as long as I change the oil in my fit every 4k miles or 4months, with quaker state oil.
So in order to keep the warranty valid, I'm going to be doing my first oil change at around 3500 miles.
At 2500miles I had to add a quart of oil (to compensate for what the engine burned due to the piston rings breaking-in/sealing).
So in order to keep the warranty valid, I'm going to be doing my first oil change at around 3500 miles.
At 2500miles I had to add a quart of oil (to compensate for what the engine burned due to the piston rings breaking-in/sealing).



