just demand money back from ajr and do the diy mod and spend the money elsewhere. alot of money for this intake if you have to worry about cel all the time.

 

I just resolved this same issue with my cheap intake. What I found is the stock air box is @ 2" Inside Diameter and my intake measured @ 2 3/8". The Maf Sensor was 1/8" higher in the tube then the stock box. The sensor saw most of the air but as you said the ECU could not make sense of what it was being told. I even tried the higher octane route with no luck.
I started by milling down the Maf seat to center the sensor. I installed and had a light within the first 40 miles. I then turned a piece of Delrin matching the stock air box profile and press fit it in. Not had a light for 200+ miles. I was really surprised how little it can be off to throw a light. It would be interesting to see what your intake internals measure. If these companies are off a tad you could have a problem. Would be interesting to see how far you can open it up before you have problem. I might do some tweaking when I get more time.
Good luck and I do agree you should contact the seller to replace this one or get your money back. You may have gotten a reject. Just a thought.

Edit: Added some pics.. Sorry for the quality. iPhone

Here is the Filter end. Notice the radius


and the Throttle body end. Tapered

 

the CEL is back! geez

 

Yea. My cel isn't turning off even with 91 anymore. I'm going to email AJR and see what's up.

 

You are chasing your tail like I did. There was nothing on the surface that clued me in that I should be having an issue. That's what made me look inside.

It looks like the MAF Sensor sits in a seperate tube. If you have any means to measure the inside diameter where the sensor sits (inside micrometer) you may find it is a bit over 2". You also want to measure where the center of the opening in the MAF sensor sits in the tube. Make a mark on the sensor where it pertrudes through the tube and then a mark in the center of the sensor opening. Measure the distance between those lines. Now take the measurement of the inside diameter of the tube and divide that in half and you should have the same number (or close to it). I'm no expert in this field and do not know how important the position of the sensor is but I will assume it is fairly important. As I mentioned in my previous post, mine was off enough to warrent me to machine it down. It did not fix it until I made the insert but I'm sure it only helped. Over 500 miles now and no light.

I run a Machine shop with access to CNC/Conventional machines and an Engineering department. Taking things apart and re-engineering is what we love to do. I really don't need to be that smart just bossy LOL.

Good luck and PM me with any questions. I hope you get this licked soon.

 

ahhhh that explains why my intake has that funny shaped part where the MAF is, i always wondered why it wasn't a full shape all the way thru:

 

Bingo Vash!!

Measure the wall thickness of the tube double that number then subtract that from the OD (Outside diameter) where the MAF sits and you should have the ID (inside diameter) of the tube. I think that is right It's late and I'm off the clock ... Interested to see what it is. Is the sensor seated in the middle of the reduced section? I would like to see if my numbers match thiers and if not it may give us some numbers to gauge our limits.

 

yep its right inside that reduced section part.. hopefully you guys can get your CEL light to go away soon, maybe without sending it back... cuz i really like those T1R intakes.. i almost bought one... and i still might buy one on for my sister's honda fit

 

Interesting find Wiona. Haven't had problems with the PRM, but it's definitely good knowledge to know for the future. I believe the PRM funnels smaller where the MAF sensor is as well, but I could be wrong without looking at it.

 

Yes the PRM is reduced there well to be completely correc the WHOLE tube is the same diameter from what I recall. I'm just waiting to see what AJR does to fix the prob

 

There should be a smooth transition from one section to the next via inside radius creating a venture (you can see it from the outside where the two sections meet). This squeezes the air down with little to no disturbance allowing the sensor to get the best reading within its calibrated numbers. It would seem that it would choke it and negate any gains but again I'm no expert. Maybe the air condensing speeds up and or cools down giving us something. I hope once Hondata cracks our ECU I will be able to take out my insert and adjust for more air flow = more power. As for why they have a larger pipe feeding down to the smaller seat instead of one size throughout, I guess it is for availability/options if not for power gains. It looks like 3" tube is the most popular size giving us and the companies more options for fittings, filters etc.

Vash.. Is the tube larger then the throttle body opening requiring a reduced coupler. I can't really make it out from your pic.

 

Before this goes any further, I am not speaking for or against AJR and do hope they figure this out. My solution was based on my findings with MY cheapo ebay intake and may not apply to this issue or any similar ones. I nor fitfreak.net will be held responsible for any damages that may accure from any info taken from this thread. Use at your own risk. Now that is out of the way....

 

ok its too hard to measure because the MAF is on the botton of that reduced section in the pipe...

but my guess's are its under 20cm at the reduced section idk if i would trust my measurements because the MAF is in the way and i couldn't get a good measure around it.

the FILTER on the other hand is a 2.75inch i know this for sure because i matched the part numbers from the CAI kit: TF-9002D, and as of the throttle body question.. ummm it looks like its the same diameter before it goes to the TB, but the MAF is at the reduced section.

EDIT: this is all outside measure. the filter is an inlet measure.

 

Try a piece of string to measure the OD. Wrap it around the outside of the reduced area close to the MAF mount and mark where the loose end meets back up. Take it off and do your best to mimick a circle and measure across with a tape measure (inside of string). It should give us a close reading. Do the same for the larger parts of the tube both before and after the reduced area. As for the the wall thickness, can you get to the filter with little issue? If so take it off and measure the wall thickness (thickness of the aluminum). This should be consistant throughout the intake so if you can get to it anywhere else it would do. We will have a good idea what it looks like inside as long as they did not do any further internal work.

 

yeah i know what you mean.. T1R... man i wish i saw his intake's sooner because so many of my friends have intakes like that on their VW's and they look sooooooo SWEET. and iam stuck with a regular CAI.

i used a tape measure like the one a tailor would use, not a metal tape measure. yeah i put my filter on where the screw is facing towards the bottom of the car, and i don't plan on changing my oil for another 2 thousand miles. so... sorry if i can't help more.

this is it for me on this thread, good luck with the fix.. i really hope AJR can pull thru. hes a great guy

 

For those who have the T1R intake and getting a CEL. I just got an email from Jason saying they are working on a solution and currently waiting for parts from the manufacturer to do more tests. I'll let everyone know what's up once Jason gets back to me sometime down the road.

 

Did you guys ever get a solution for this?

 

I don't have an modified intake installed, but this topic is really intriguing. What is the current status of the problems ? solved ?

 

I emailed Jason at AJR last week for an update. He said they are still waiting for the manufacturer to send the parts over to be tested and that he sent them an email to confirm the status.

 

Hey man, is there anyway I can get you to make me something similar to what you did for your fix. I don't know where to get that material or how to trim it down. I only have a metal lathe and that wont exactly work. It would need to be a 3 inch outer diameter tapered down to the 2" ID necessary for the MAF not to throw a CEL. Thanks in Advance!