Horn Took Out Cruise Set
#21
05-29-2010, 09:29 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
I'll tell you there's quite a bit of room behind the grill. If you haven't seen it you might want to look here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...today-wow.html You might need to rig a bracket to hold them, but one could go each side of the hood latch - I believe the same mount hole is on each side. I think yours is a split pair.
This is the plug and play version but it explains how to get inside the grill. With your PIAA it will be a double WOW!! Next week I'll get the parts together for mine and post back.
Try and keep the original horn connector. I really hate cutting up a wire harness. I rigged a male blade plug out of an appropriate crimp-on 'terminal' connector. Just snip off one prong - the remaining one fits perfect. Shrink tape it together and you're good to go.
K_C_
#22
05-29-2010, 02:56 PM
Might as well bite the bullet Goobers. You called it for me from the beginning. I approached it as you are but have found out that in the Sport at least there's a few other things that get tied up in the stock horn circuit - cruise, stop lights, security to name a few.
I'll tell you there's quite a bit of room behind the grill. If you haven't seen it you might want to look here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...today-wow.html You might need to rig a bracket to hold them, but one could go each side of the hood latch - I believe the same mount hole is on each side. I think yours is a split pair.
This is the plug and play version but it explains how to get inside the grill. With your PIAA it will be a double WOW!! Next week I'll get the parts together for mine and post back.
Try and keep the original horn connector. I really hate cutting up a wire harness. I rigged a male blade plug out of an appropriate crimp-on 'terminal' connector. Just snip off one prong - the remaining one fits perfect. Shrink tape it together and you're good to go.
K_C_
I'll tell you there's quite a bit of room behind the grill. If you haven't seen it you might want to look here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...today-wow.html You might need to rig a bracket to hold them, but one could go each side of the hood latch - I believe the same mount hole is on each side. I think yours is a split pair.
This is the plug and play version but it explains how to get inside the grill. With your PIAA it will be a double WOW!! Next week I'll get the parts together for mine and post back.
Try and keep the original horn connector. I really hate cutting up a wire harness. I rigged a male blade plug out of an appropriate crimp-on 'terminal' connector. Just snip off one prong - the remaining one fits perfect. Shrink tape it together and you're good to go.
K_C_
I wasn't planning on changing the fuses, just hoping the system had enough juice to power the horns. Oh well.
Maybe I'll be lazy and just pop in the low tone. At least, until I rig up the relay and figure out where to hide it.
#23
06-03-2010, 05:52 PM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
Horrible idea. Never put an above-rating fuse in a circuit. The fuse is there to protect the wiring among other things. The correct solution is to add a 12V relay that can handle 18amps (or more) through its contacts.
Basically, connect the power leads for the relay into the circuit in place of the existing horn. You then run a heavier gauge wire, WITH AN INLINE FUSE, from the battery to the normally-open (NO) switched relay contact, then from the other side of the switched relay contact to ground. When you press the horn button, it energizes the old horn circuit, which closes the relay, which allows higher current to flow directly from the battery to your new horn. Relays pull very little power themselves, so this should not affect the fusing or wiring for the existing horn circuit.
Your local auto parts place should carry suitable relays. These are normally used to add high-power offroad lighting or similar to vehicles. Look around that section of the store.
I'm surprised that your horn didn't come with such a relay in the package, since it's an aftermarket add-on anyway.
Here is a table showing the gauge of 12V wire you'll need, based on amperage and distance from the battery.
Here is an article about wiring aftermarket stuff to your car with relays.
Basically, connect the power leads for the relay into the circuit in place of the existing horn. You then run a heavier gauge wire, WITH AN INLINE FUSE, from the battery to the normally-open (NO) switched relay contact, then from the other side of the switched relay contact to ground. When you press the horn button, it energizes the old horn circuit, which closes the relay, which allows higher current to flow directly from the battery to your new horn. Relays pull very little power themselves, so this should not affect the fusing or wiring for the existing horn circuit.
Your local auto parts place should carry suitable relays. These are normally used to add high-power offroad lighting or similar to vehicles. Look around that section of the store.
I'm surprised that your horn didn't come with such a relay in the package, since it's an aftermarket add-on anyway.
Here is a table showing the gauge of 12V wire you'll need, based on amperage and distance from the battery.
Here is an article about wiring aftermarket stuff to your car with relays.
Thanks K_C_
#24
06-04-2010, 01:41 AM
Hey Steve and All, I've got the relay, female connectors and some 14ga wire and now I'm curious as to how you would suggest making the battery connection. I would like that connection to be as professional as possible but have no idea as to how to make it. What might I need??
Thanks K_C_
Thanks K_C_
, but I suspect that at least one side of the positive terminal connector has a nut on it to tighten the clamp. You should be able to get metal crimp connectors for the 14 gauge wire that will fit under the nut. Crimp one onto the end of your wire, solder that crimp for extra security if you have the needed tools, feed the wire/crimp through the rubber clamp cover (if any), and attach it to the positive clamp.You probably want a closed ring-style connector as opposed to an open C-style connector so it can't work its way off. Note, the nut may be a captive nut on the clamp, in that it's not designed to totally screw off of the bolt, but this is usually implemented by just burring or flattening the outer end of the bolt - you should be able to unscrew the nut past that with a little more force (or just punt and use a C-style connector that you can slide on with the nut in place).
You did put an inline fuse holder in the wire, didn't you? Trust me, with 500 cranking amps available, a battery will make a 14GA wire that is shorted to ground melt or explode. The fuse should be close to the battery-end of the wire.
Last edited by SteveInNC; 06-04-2010 at 01:45 AM.
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#26
06-04-2010, 11:59 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
SteveInNC - what you've described is what I've been heading towards. I'm simply trying to see if any one has come up with another approach. I do have an in-line fuse holder that will go on that lead to the relay, making it a 20A feed. With the collective knowledge around here I'm looking for best solution.
I was hoping some one might know how to tap out of the under dash fuse panel. Logic says that's where to come off. I admittedly/obviously have little experience in running new automotive 12V circuits.
I'm up in Maine right now and will be traveling home in a few. Then I'll bite the bullet but do know those who install audio in cars and might get a more complete answer - BUT - I do believe your solution is as good as any and a whole lot more straight forward. Thanks.
K_C_
I was hoping some one might know how to tap out of the under dash fuse panel. Logic says that's where to come off. I admittedly/obviously have little experience in running new automotive 12V circuits.
I'm up in Maine right now and will be traveling home in a few. Then I'll bite the bullet but do know those who install audio in cars and might get a more complete answer - BUT - I do believe your solution is as good as any and a whole lot more straight forward. Thanks.
K_C_
#29
06-11-2010, 12:44 PM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
FINALLY got back to the horn. You should hear me now !!!!
1) I hung the relay off the battery ground to frame bolt - easy.
2) Ground relay to mount bolt - easy
3) Ring connector off the battery positive fuse block bolt to relay new horn positive w/ 20A inline fuse - easy
4) New horn mounts off original bolt on a short bracket - easy
5) New horn grounds to mount bolt - easy
6) Run new horn positive to relay - easy
7) No more meep - now it's whoooaaaaaap - sweet - an authentic Italian Air Horn gets attention, nothing else sounds like it.
It did take a bit of figuring and crimp on connectors but it was well worth it, and it's all reversible in that I simply spliced onto the original horn feed - didn't cut off that Honda connector.
Goobers - you there yet????
K_C_
!!1) I hung the relay off the battery ground to frame bolt - easy.
2) Ground relay to mount bolt - easy
3) Ring connector off the battery positive fuse block bolt to relay new horn positive w/ 20A inline fuse - easy
4) New horn mounts off original bolt on a short bracket - easy
5) New horn grounds to mount bolt - easy
6) Run new horn positive to relay - easy
7) No more meep - now it's whoooaaaaaap - sweet - an authentic Italian Air Horn gets attention, nothing else sounds like it.
It did take a bit of figuring and crimp on connectors but it was well worth it, and it's all reversible in that I simply spliced onto the original horn feed - didn't cut off that Honda connector.
Goobers - you there yet????
K_C_
#30
06-11-2010, 02:28 PM
Dude, I can't even get the Fit!!! I cancelled my Sport W/Navi order after I got pissed off at the manager. It went from a promised 1 week after production date, to 3-1/2 weeks, THEN to 4-5 weeks. To top it off, he tried to make it sound like it was a misunderstanding that he "would never say" it only takes 1 week, since it's coming from Japan.
Well, I don't respond well to lies... or people trying to BS me.
I thought I found a SSM Sport M/T... but it turns out the dealer, that had it, had already traded it to another dealer (the website lagged).
And so, my search starts all over. Not sure which is rarer... Sport w/Navi or M/T Sport.
Well, I don't respond well to lies... or people trying to BS me.
I thought I found a SSM Sport M/T... but it turns out the dealer, that had it, had already traded it to another dealer (the website lagged).
And so, my search starts all over. Not sure which is rarer... Sport w/Navi or M/T Sport.
#31
06-20-2010, 03:07 AM
SteveInNC - what you've described is what I've been heading towards. I'm simply trying to see if any one has come up with another approach. I do have an in-line fuse holder that will go on that lead to the relay, making it a 20A feed. With the collective knowledge around here I'm looking for best solution.
I was hoping some one might know how to tap out of the under dash fuse panel. Logic says that's where to come off. I admittedly/obviously have little experience in running new automotive 12V circuits.
I'm up in Maine right now and will be traveling home in a few. Then I'll bite the bullet but do know those who install audio in cars and might get a more complete answer - BUT - I do believe your solution is as good as any and a whole lot more straight forward. Thanks.
K_C_
I was hoping some one might know how to tap out of the under dash fuse panel. Logic says that's where to come off. I admittedly/obviously have little experience in running new automotive 12V circuits.
I'm up in Maine right now and will be traveling home in a few. Then I'll bite the bullet but do know those who install audio in cars and might get a more complete answer - BUT - I do believe your solution is as good as any and a whole lot more straight forward. Thanks.
K_C_
#32
06-20-2010, 10:26 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
HA! And would you believe $5.49/# - kickin' live at the dock - sweet as candy....
BTW the Stebel comes with a fitting that allows you to connect a piece of 1/4" tubing as the air supply. I ran this inside/behind the top of the radiator and tied it in place. This prevents the compressor from pulling rain water into the horn - not what you want happening. Been through some solid rain lately and absolutely no issues.
Love that Italian horn on my Japanese car and I'm Norwegian!!!
.BTW the Stebel comes with a fitting that allows you to connect a piece of 1/4" tubing as the air supply. I ran this inside/behind the top of the radiator and tied it in place. This prevents the compressor from pulling rain water into the horn - not what you want happening. Been through some solid rain lately and absolutely no issues.
Love that Italian horn on my Japanese car and I'm Norwegian!!!
#33
06-26-2010, 12:12 AM
YouTube - Horn comparison
Just me, sounding off my PIAA 400Hz horn. I only installed one of the two horns since I wasn't feeling like setting up a relay for it just yet.
I forced the alarm horn to do a quick beep by hitting the lock button on the key twice.
I didn't record the original horn sounds, but I figured the alarm horn was basically the same.
Just me, sounding off my PIAA 400Hz horn. I only installed one of the two horns since I wasn't feeling like setting up a relay for it just yet.
I forced the alarm horn to do a quick beep by hitting the lock button on the key twice.
I didn't record the original horn sounds, but I figured the alarm horn was basically the same.
#34
06-26-2010, 12:36 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
Okay - here's the Stebel, only it's in a Subaru but you'll get the picture.
YouTube - Stock Subaru Horn VS. Stebel Nautilus
Not whimpy by any stretch of the imagination.
K_C_
EDIT: Goober - you landed your ride!!!
YouTube - Stock Subaru Horn VS. Stebel Nautilus
Not whimpy by any stretch of the imagination.
K_C_
EDIT: Goober - you landed your ride!!!
#35
06-26-2010, 05:32 AM
Yup. Took quite an effort too!
Between the financing and the fact I had to wait three days after it arrived to finally pick it up, I was worried that I still wouldn't get it.
Between the financing and the fact I had to wait three days after it arrived to finally pick it up, I was worried that I still wouldn't get it.
#37
06-26-2010, 10:04 AM
2010 SSM Sport manual. No need to settle, got what I wanted.
man, oh man... I'm so out of practice when it comes to shifting. But, I'm slowly getting better at it.
I ordered some parts (visor, floormat, armrest, headlight), so I'm waiting on them. Hopefully, I can get/install them before I have to fly out to Cali.
man, oh man... I'm so out of practice when it comes to shifting. But, I'm slowly getting better at it.
I ordered some parts (visor, floormat, armrest, headlight), so I'm waiting on them. Hopefully, I can get/install them before I have to fly out to Cali.
#38
06-26-2010, 10:08 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
I've got a thread running again on mine - will be taking photos soon.
I can tell you keep thing cool the first 1K miles. Get to know her. The fun comes after 3K. Drive sensibly and watch the MPG's improve. No need to rush things brother.
I can tell you keep thing cool the first 1K miles. Get to know her. The fun comes after 3K. Drive sensibly and watch the MPG's improve. No need to rush things brother.
#39
08-05-2010, 08:27 PM
Well, that's not cool.
My single horn isn't working now. Haven't gotten a chance to open up the hood to look at it, but is seems to be either the horn itself or the wires (loose?). If Virtual's post about what else is tied to the #24 is correct, the fuse isn't blown since everything else on that fuse works.
BTW, I finally took a look at the in-cabin fuse panel... Not as easily accessible as past cars I've driven. Hope I don't have to visit it often.
Gonna have to wait until after work to check the horn & wiring. Sigh.
Maybe, if it's just loose, I'll make a relay and put both horns in.
My single horn isn't working now. Haven't gotten a chance to open up the hood to look at it, but is seems to be either the horn itself or the wires (loose?). If Virtual's post about what else is tied to the #24 is correct, the fuse isn't blown since everything else on that fuse works.
BTW, I finally took a look at the in-cabin fuse panel... Not as easily accessible as past cars I've driven. Hope I don't have to visit it often.
Gonna have to wait until after work to check the horn & wiring. Sigh.
Maybe, if it's just loose, I'll make a relay and put both horns in.
#40
08-05-2010, 09:37 PM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital Distric New York
Posts: 3,416
The fuse panel - one of those get on your knees jobs!
Can't remember right off if there's another fuse involved - might be. The OEM horn circuit is a 10A.
Do like I did and use the circuit to trip a relay w/ power to the new horns off the battery positive on a 20A fused line, ground the horns to a solid ground.
Can't remember right off if there's another fuse involved - might be. The OEM horn circuit is a 10A.
Do like I did and use the circuit to trip a relay w/ power to the new horns off the battery positive on a 20A fused line, ground the horns to a solid ground.