Well everything is installed and running perfect (almost). Might as well post some Pics.


Stabbed my finger during the install with a multimeter probe. Nothing duct tape can't fix. Wasn't going to stop me from finishing though


I wanted my gauge somewhere I could check on it as I drive, but not easily visible by offiicers of the law. (even though illinois has NO laws prohibitting nitrous use on public motorways)


I removed the bulb that came with the gauge and replaced it with a blue 4chip LED I had laying around to make it match the other gauges.


Digital window switch, was a real pain in the ass getting wired up. I spent a couple hours trying to get it to read the spark pulse but to no avail. Luckily it reads the injector pulse just fine. However, it looks like the injectors are not pulsing while the transmission is shifting (possibly to reduce tranny wear but explaining the pathetic difference between at and mt? 5% loss of efficency and tall gears do not justify the stock 2 second 0-60 times between transmission) I feel confident we will have a shift kit available for this tranny eventually. Anyway.... This is causing me not to spray through the shift which is limiting my current 0-60 to arround 8.2 - 8.5 on the bottle. I can probably get that down to 7.9 once I take out the subwoofer and amp (50lbs) and rear seat and passenger seat (on track day) and spare tire and lower the spoiler back down to reduce drag. Hopefully even lower if I can spray through the shift.

UPDATE! - Injectors ARE pulsing upon further diagnostics. Looks like the TPS voltage drops durring shifting which is shutting off the NMU since its not detecting WOT.


You can see on the right I am still making use of my foglight air ducts. The passenger side foglight with alot of bends and somewhat less airflow is going to the zex solenoid box / NMU / WOT throttle switch and helping keep it cool. Overheated solenoids that get stuck open result in terrible things. The driver side foglight is practically a straight pipe/tube so I let that flow right into the intake filter to get a little extra cold air at speed.


I'm very pleased with the bracket I came up with for the zex NMU. Purge solenoid to the right clears the hood. Cooling duct is underneath.


I have the fogger mounted on the bottom of the tube. FOR A REASON! When you stop spraying the juice, fuel remains in the fuel feed line after the solenoid turns off and will leak out into your intake in a big puddle and empty out through your filter or into the manifold. I can't believe zex makes no mention of this ANYWHERE in their manual. Luckily I researched this before installing and mounted on the bottom of the tube so that fuel sits in the line after use and slowly gets drawn out by vacuum and evaporation. I also made a bracket here to ensure the fogger does not rotate away from the direction of airflow. On the right is my ghetto heat shield made out of a cut out window sunshield (TO BE REPLACED SOON!!!). My amp power lines are burried in there too . The white wire in the background is the TPS wire tap. The two braided lines in back are the fuel and nitrous feed. Routing the nitrous line under the car was very easy to do in a safe and clean way.


The fogger mounted before installation. Thread locker is a must.


Inside view. MAF is just behind the fogger.


Perfect stock spark plugs (could be A BIT on the lean side but most stock un-tuned vehicles are to reduce emissions and increase MPG but at the sacrifice of hp), I replaced them with the zex plugs which are a shorter gap and at least 2 steps colder. I joke the zex plugs are so much colder I HAVE to spray every day I drive just to heat up the plugs and clean off deposits. Actually, every 1 out of 100 or so starts from a dead stop the engine will hesitate for a fraction of a second with the zex plugs. Worth it though to keep the plugs from turning into red hot preignition causing glow plugs of death under nitrous.


The bottle when first installed.


Final install with T and extra line for mechanical nitrous gauge. And ghetto walmart $12 bottle heater. Blowoff tube is coming soon!


Wrapped up and ready for heat. Need a real bottle heater though, this heating pad takes forever to get the bottle up into the necessary 90* range, especially fighting cabin temps.


A better view of the fuel line T (brass fiting) and feed line right behind the window switch box. The front green wire from the relay goes to the zex box. My relay also gets constant power, switched power (from the inside activation switch), and switched ground (from window switch)


I pulled out the cup holder insert to install a hidden purge button not visible from inside the car.




Those ducts I was talking about that replaced my cracked fog lights. This is the one that cools the 'noids.


Free heatshield made from sunblocker pulled out. Probably does nothing.


Overall engine bay. Few wires to tidy up and looks better with the cover on the window switch but thats about it. Lots of custom brackets I had to come up with, the one for the window switch and relay was a PIA because it had to be somewhere visible, weathersafe, and easy to program in a moments notice. Even the brake fluid resevoir has a custom raised bracket I made.


Impressions... When it kicks in, it kicks in. Problem is that every shift seems to last FOREVER becuase as I mentioned earlier I'm not spraying through the shift becuase the tps voltage drops durring the shift, which shuts off the NMU, which shuts off the nitrous. I'm sure my trans thanks me but there is more time to be shaved off here. It's good for cheap thrills though because there is a substantial jolt when it kicks back in after the shift. 0-55 time is more impressive than 0-60 because there is one of those eternal shifts at 55. On the highway It's just as impressive. 70-100 no longer takes forever. Flick the switch, hit the gas and you will have that tailgaiting SUV off your tail in no time.

Traction breaks sometimes at intial activation. You need a flat smooth surface to activate at 2550 (my current setting). I'm hoping when I get down to the track next month I can set that a little lower, find a way tospray through the shift, and hit some good times (for .a car that goes 18.1 stock anyway)

 

Congrats man. Thanks for sharing pics.

 

Very nice. One question with your setup though. Since it is fed through the intake how do you know your not overloading your system with gas since there is no provision for correcting gas flow depending on engine load?

Again....good job. A am a little jealous honestly though. It would be nice to have a little boost every once in a while.

P.S. Steer clear of Johny Tran's territory. I'd hate to see your car get shot up and the NOS explode in your car.
(Sorry I had to pull that from Fast & Furious)

 

Very Nice. Id like to see the numbers you put up when you go to the track next. Hopefully all your custom brackets hold up but from the looks of your install i'd say you know what your doing. Good luck

 

Awesome man, Nice work! It would be most awesome if you could post a youtube video of this in action. Maybe show a quick run without NOS, then tear it up with NOS to show the difference! Track numbers of course eventually, but would like to see it in action too!

 

Well done and nice touch on the guage location... smart

 

that bubble wrap isnt going to insulate anything.. looks more like a fire hazzard to me. google "thermal heat blanket" if you want something that works. otherwise the kit looks nice and clean to me. have fun and be safe!

 

WOW! Impressed - would love to see a video of you hitting the nos button. Looks good but as above just be safe.

Cat :x

 

Great install. Great idea to keep the solenoid cool with the ducting. Can't wait to see it in action.

 

Baller lol I want one come to Cali and do my car

 

I am having impure thoughts about tossing another $250 at it and converting it to a 2 stage system by buying some 'noids, tee fittings, lines, second fogger and another window switch. 55 shot at ~2900 rpms and another 35 shot at ~5000 rpms. That would be making K power (~207 BHP) for just a brief second. Simple math says cylinder pressure with a 90 shot (55+35) at 5000 rpms is equal to the pressure I am already experiencing with a 55 shot at 3000 rpms. Now I see exactly why engines get destroyed but I must do it! I am going to need to free up alot of back pressure in the exhaust first before I end up melting a valve. I'm thinking headers back.

 

Gawd, this brings back memories of my nitroused EF. Awesome power. Will shave at least 3 seconds off your times at the drag strip. Use it wisely, though. It's so addictive. I became a race whore after installing the nitrous kit.

 

Have you pulled the "trigger" on this yet? This is the most exciting performance mod I've witnessed for the GE so far. Adding an extra fogger would be absolutely ridiculous, but even more awesome. Is your exhaust system still stock?

 

Ever since I read Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" I realized that tensile forces at 6800 rpms are about THREE TIMES the compressive forces. In other words, you are much much more likely to bend a rod or crack a piston from detonation or preignition than sheer cylinder pressure. In turbo applications that translates to about 24 PSI to exceed tensile forces. In nitrous on a NA engine it is next to impossible to triple HP. Your hood and intake manifold will be lying across the street before you get there. That's why I fear a bad A/F more than anything.

The exhaust is stock, sadly. I've rode around without the axleback but ended up melting a bodyplug First order this weekend is to get a test pipe made up at the local muffler shop. I suspect the cats on a ULEV-II vehicle must be the biggest restriction. I'm hoping it will even make a difference on the 55 shot. I just don't want to turn her into a fart cannon on the daily drive.


I'm with you on this. That sunshield was the only thing I had lying around.

 

Nitrous and fuel are metered at the nozzle. Regardless of engine load the stoichiometric ratio of air and fuel does not change. The window switch and WOT switch keep me from over inundating the cylinders with fuel and nitrous. If I were to spray at 1000 rpms or at partial open throtle, my cheap little plastic upper intake manifold would be blown up after the first intake backfire. On the bright side I hope this may save the stronger lower intake manifold from harm, maybe...

 

A muffler shop axle back is the way to go... I had an 8" long glass Pack muffler on mine and it sounded great except after a couple of hours at 70 on the highway. 2 1/2" pipe and a 12" or 16" glass pack will be cheap and have a deep throaty sound but not loud enough to be hassled by the law.

 

I'm starting to think I may be rushing towards the extra 35 too soon. I fear I may be puddling up with the 55 shot by activating so low but clearing the puddle before it causes any problems by getting up to 4000 rpms in less than a second. Only way I can think to make sure that is not the case is to dyno with the 35, 45, and 55 all activating at 2550 rpms. If there is no improvement in power between shots in the 2500 - 3500 rpm range I will know that the additional nitrous/fuel is not making it to the cylinder. I need to hit the dyno before I start adding more to be safe. This will probably be something that will take time. An oil analysis will be in order to see just how much fuel I've been forcing in to my oil too.

 

before you go any further with the nitrous I would finish the exhaust system, get a nice a/f gauge and possibly a way to tune it such as an aem f/ic.

 

That stuff on your hand looks like lubricant. Doesn't nitrous evaporate quickly? I want to add to the quote above an electronic throttle controller in case the throttle isn't completely open when you give it a shot.. Also NOS make an octane booster for those really big shots.

 

What brand of window switch did you use?