Just wanted to post that I had to have the front brakes replaced for the first time on the 2009 Fit Auto at about 45k.

The car was stopping fine, with just a hint of noise occasionally. However, when you came to a near stop (under 5 mph), you could hear some groaning and grinding. I took the car to the local tire shop and we pulled the RF tire and found that the inner pad had less than 2mm remaining.

Unfortunately, parts availability is a problem for this car. No one had front pads in-stock for this car-- O'Reilly, NAPA or the dealer. It was irrelevant though, as I was planning to get another set of OE pads regardless. The dealer was able to have a set for me the next day, for $47. However, it is also important to point out that the aftermarket pad suppliers seem to be undecided about the size of the front pads on this car, which is a bit concerting. Raybestos, Wagner and Centric all have different FMSI pad numbers for this application, which is unusual as they are usually in agreement. This was the main reason why I decided to go with OE pads again, though the OE pads lasting 45k and having decent stopping power was another compelling reason.

I ended up paying the dealer $47 for the pads, and the local tire shop installed the front pads, resurfaced the front rotors, serviced the front calipers and cleaned/adjusted the rear drum brakes for $100 labor. $147 was a steal compared to the ~$292 that the dealer wanted for the same service.

Post brake job-- initially the car did not stop too well, even after 15-20 stops around town. The pedal was somewhat stiff/firm and you had to push far for the car to stop. I suspected this was because the front pads had not mated to the rotor and I was feeling the lack of bite from the rear shoes. So, I decided to 15 stops from 30 mph, spaced about 10 seconds apart on a hilly road. After about the 15th or 16th stop, the pedal suddenly loosened up a little and you could feel a much sharper "bite" from the front pads. Simultaneously I smelled hot pads, so I guess I had gotten the pads hot enough to transfer a fresh layer of material to the rotors.

After cooling the brakes, the car now definitely stops A LOT better than before the brake job. This is puzzling to me, as the new set from the dealer was the same as the set that were replaced and the old pads were in very good shape-- just worn.

Anyway, enough of a ramble-- point is, shop around for brake service and don't just blindly pay the dealer without shopping around. Be sure to bed in your pads for maximum performance. Also, check the pads frequently-- as the pads can be worn below 2mm and the squealers may not have kicked in yet.

 

Brake pads literally just drop in. Remove the tire. Loosen 2 bolts. Pull the caliper off. Pop the old pads out, Grease the slide bolts,(which the brake shop probably won't do) compress the piston, and pop the new pads in (assuming rotor is in spec thickness) bolt the calper back on and call it a day. It's a crime what dealers try to charge.

 

Critic Sounds like you got a good deal. What you were doing post-brake jos essentially was bedding the brakes. Instructions for bedding in your brakes

Many shops overlook this process and many owners aren't even aware of it. There's more reason to replace brakes than pad thickness. The old set had most likely glazed over and you now have new wear surfaces all around and all the benefits of a good brake job. You were used to the old sets performance level, not uncommon with a small car like the Fit.

 

yup. I did my pads on the Ridgeline not too long ago. Replaced the Rotors as well for a Fraction of the cost that the dealer wanted. (For the Fronts, they wanted $500+ and parts - new pads & rotors - were just over $200 shipped.) About 1.5 hours later and I had new front brakes.

For the fit, I already have the new rotors as they are the same part number as my Integra GS-R and I have rotors from that which never made it on the Integra. Just need new pads as they are different from the integra - too bad as i have a set of AEM Ceramic pads that never got used.

~SB

 

Yup. Some dealers charge flat rate for brake work, and this one was one of them.

Yup, though those instructions are a bit extreme for the super fade-prone Honda OE pads. I went with the less aggressive method since I didn't want to kill them. I followed what GM recommends-- about 20 moderate stops from 30 mph.

http://www.chevroletforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=33806

 

Remember when you are doing your brake jobs to have the rotors turned.
Just replacing the pads is easy, and will get you home if need be. But you are going to have a decreased pad life AND decreased rotor life if you don't have the rotors turned when you do your brake service.

 

I believe that the 2nd generation Fit uses the same pads as the Civic Hybrid - the Raybestos PGD948C pads should work. Good rotors are about $35 each- when the time finally comes to replace those new pads, you can change out the pads AND rotors for less than $100 total if you do it yourself, and as Lyon noted, do a better job than the shop will.

 

you do not need to bed in brakes if you're just using OEM pads. They will do automatically over some time.

Only do it if the pads specifically require you to do it, or if you're in some huge rush to prep your brakes.

If you get carried away with brake bedding, you will warp your rotors, and just screw up your entire brake job.

 

^a total misconception^
Should be done after changing pads, shoes, drums, rotors. Has nothing to do with type, simply a recommended practice that a good mechanic would do, but many do not and most don't even bother mentioning it. To do properly takes a bit of time and not many will do it for free and not many owners appreciate the value enough to pay for it.

Is it required - no. Will it improve brake performance/life - yes. It's one of those things that's good to know about.

 

I replaced mine at 25k.

Stupid GMR.

 

Granted you have a point there, but I think it's equally a misconception to use a blanket statement that you should bed in all brakes.

Here on tire rack they list the procedures from the pad manufacturers they sell.
Brake Tech - Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures

Notice that some of them say to just to do moderate braking for 400-500miless and avoid heavy braking.

My point is to defer to the specific instructions for your particular pads, it might says bed them in or just drive normally. Do as you wish, but I personally would just go with the "500 miles moderate normal braking technique" for OEM pads that don't include any special instructions.

 

Yeah, I don't think anything special needs to be done after the brake job except avoiding heavy braking.

I was a mechanic, finished automotive technology program at college and have never heard of it and it was NOT in the text books in 1999.

 

Hey John - as said in your sig - There is no sin greater than ignorance...

 

I am open-minded. Could you point me to the the credible source that argues for the use of this procedure?

 

As you might realize technology has a great cross-over effect.
What has become more commonly shared from the high performance world is brake performance in today's autos.
It's really nothing new but has, in the consumer quickie world, been over looked because it's not necessarily straight forward and should be properly done by some one who understands the objectives.

Here's a few links:
zeckhausen racing

Tire Rack

Stop Tech

essex good video

K_C_

go Packers!!

 

Well if the argument is that it needs to be done on economy cars because it has been widely used in the racing world, then it is pretty weak since the differences are immense. Not to mention that during the race, there is no was to slowly break in the brake pad. I have no doubt that racing technologies are significantly different from the mainstream personal automotive industry. But again, the fit is by far not a performance vehicle, so it does not require performance oriented maintenance and service.

I am going to look at the link posted above, but i just don't see any need for the accelerated, intentional brake pad wear after the brake job. What difference does it make compared to slight use of brakes for the first lets say 250 miles?

Update: I read their instructions for SOME pads. For others they just recommend 500-600 miles od moderate driving without hard braking.

I guess in the end I would follow the brake manufacturers' instructions. If they used material that needs special treatment after installation, then be it.

Still, I say that for the majority of passenger cars, especially auto zone brake pads, there is no need for any special break in procedures... Hence it was never even mentioned at 3 brake/auto repair centers I worked at: Napa, Good Year, and 3 generations family auto repair shop.

 

I'm curious, does the owner's manual specify this procedure?? After all, upon delivery, the car had new brakes. I read my manual from cover to cover, and I don't remember any special instructions regarding brakes. Having said that, I am always open to new information...for as you know, "Time and technology marches on!"
'07 VBP Sport 5MT w/minor appearance & comfort mods!!
BTW: I am coming up on 58K, still on original pads/rotors, due for a change within the next 2k miles.

 

With a new car purchase you are not going to see reference to bedding the brakes. One might speculate that it has been taken care of during the manufacturing of the components, but you do bring up an interesting point. I really have no idea.

Looks like you're getting your miles worth on the OEM brakes, something for me to look forward to.

 

Great info! Need to do mine soon. Just replaces all pads and resurfaced rotors on wifes 07 accord V6....

 

When I worked at a GMC/Hummer dealer it was a common practice among the techs. They would take them out to a big parking lot, get up to 50mph & do a couple panic stops. They smoked & smelled bad... but they were then burnished(sp?) in or bedded in. Probably not in your textbooks, but experienced techs know & do it...